98 Chevy Pickup-bad engine
#1
98 Chevy Pickup-bad engine
OK, I've got 4 Fords and 1 Chevy. The Chevy decided to give up the ghost this morning. It's a 1998 K1500 pickup with the 4.3l V6 engine and is 4X4 automatic.
The engine started knocking pretty bad after I got off of the interstate this morning and I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me he was sure it was a rod bearing and estimates $5000 for a replacement engine from Chevrolet-total cost.
My questions: Does $5k sound reasonable? Is there another option such as a used engine that wouldn't be too risky? Should I consider changing to the 350 engine and would it cost much more?
Thanks for your help.
The engine started knocking pretty bad after I got off of the interstate this morning and I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me he was sure it was a rod bearing and estimates $5000 for a replacement engine from Chevrolet-total cost.
My questions: Does $5k sound reasonable? Is there another option such as a used engine that wouldn't be too risky? Should I consider changing to the 350 engine and would it cost much more?
Thanks for your help.
#2
OK, I've got 4 Fords and 1 Chevy. The Chevy decided to give up the ghost this morning. It's a 1998 K1500 pickup with the 4.3l V6 engine and is 4X4 automatic.
The engine started knocking pretty bad after I got off of the interstate this morning and I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me he was sure it was a rod bearing and estimates $5000 for a replacement engine from Chevrolet-total cost.
My questions: Does $5k sound reasonable? Is there another option such as a used engine that wouldn't be too risky? Should I consider changing to the 350 engine and would it cost much more?
Thanks for your help.
The engine started knocking pretty bad after I got off of the interstate this morning and I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me he was sure it was a rod bearing and estimates $5000 for a replacement engine from Chevrolet-total cost.
My questions: Does $5k sound reasonable? Is there another option such as a used engine that wouldn't be too risky? Should I consider changing to the 350 engine and would it cost much more?
Thanks for your help.
#4
Five grand is absurd!
A GM Performance crate engine is about two grand out of Summit, which is typical.
If he gets more than a grand to swap it including miscellaneous parts, find another mechanic.
A 350 is comparable in price, and the external accessories fit. I'd install a 350 for the additional torque.
A GM Performance crate engine is about two grand out of Summit, which is typical.
If he gets more than a grand to swap it including miscellaneous parts, find another mechanic.
A 350 is comparable in price, and the external accessories fit. I'd install a 350 for the additional torque.
#5
Five grand is a little overpriced....but if he priced a V6 it will be more than a V8...sounds kinda dumb....but there are more cores for 8's than 6's cause most people just junk a V6 anyway. (Found that out a few years back) But to drop a V8 in could be even more depending on what set up you got. Since its a 98, its gonna be comp controlled. That means a whole new harness for a V8 and a computer for a V8, plus any type of accessory (water pump, starter, exhaust manifolds and pipes, brackets for alt and A/C if equipped) that wont bolt on due to swapping in a V8. Plus you will need another trans as the V6 trans wont bolt up to the 8 either. Now if you really wanted a V8, find a local salvage yard that you can get a decent running V8 and all the other goddies along with it. (Harness, computer, trans and al the accessories.)
#6
Five grand is absurd!
A GM Performance crate engine is about two grand out of Summit, which is typical.
If he gets more than a grand to swap it including miscellaneous parts, find another mechanic.
A 350 is comparable in price, and the external accessories fit. I'd install a 350 for the additional torque.
A GM Performance crate engine is about two grand out of Summit, which is typical.
If he gets more than a grand to swap it including miscellaneous parts, find another mechanic.
A 350 is comparable in price, and the external accessories fit. I'd install a 350 for the additional torque.
The mechanic called me back and said his final quote is $4400 after running the numbers. I called another shop that I had done business with for many years and he said $4900 without making the calculation. These quotes are for GM engines with 3 year/100,000 mile warranties. I don't yet know the cost of labor versus parts and will ask that on Monday. I do want make the truck very dependable because I use it for hunting and drive it to work quite a lot.
#7
Thanks for everyone's replies.
The mechanic called me back and said his final quote is $4400 after running the numbers. I called another shop that I had done business with for many years and he said $4900 without making the calculation. These quotes are for GM engines with 3 year/100,000 mile warranties. I don't yet know the cost of labor versus parts and will ask that on Monday. I do want make the truck very dependable because I use it for hunting and drive it to work quite a lot.
The mechanic called me back and said his final quote is $4400 after running the numbers. I called another shop that I had done business with for many years and he said $4900 without making the calculation. These quotes are for GM engines with 3 year/100,000 mile warranties. I don't yet know the cost of labor versus parts and will ask that on Monday. I do want make the truck very dependable because I use it for hunting and drive it to work quite a lot.
When the engine went bad in my '88 F-150, the block was cracke din three places. I bought a short block, the mechanic then did a valve job, new springs and suck and bolted it all back together. I now have 105K on this engine and the heads have 205K them.
Additionally, you should consider replacing the engine mounts, water pump and all of the engines external components while the motor is on the hoist. You'll be much happier.
Tim
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#8
Did you ask about overhauling the bottom half of the engine and bolting your old heads and etc. back on?
When the engine went bad in my '88 F-150, the block was cracke din three places. I bought a short block, the mechanic then did a valve job, new springs and suck and bolted it all back together. I now have 105K on this engine and the heads have 205K them.
Additionally, you should consider replacing the engine mounts, water pump and all of the engines external components while the motor is on the hoist. You'll be much happier.
Tim
When the engine went bad in my '88 F-150, the block was cracke din three places. I bought a short block, the mechanic then did a valve job, new springs and suck and bolted it all back together. I now have 105K on this engine and the heads have 205K them.
Additionally, you should consider replacing the engine mounts, water pump and all of the engines external components while the motor is on the hoist. You'll be much happier.
Tim
#9
I agree with the others that a good used engine is the best way to go. You will find that the price for a used one can vary according to the condition. I bought a used engine for a 97 KIA and it only cost 450 bucks and had a garantee to run. Be sure to check the used engine YOURSELF before you install it. Look at the plugs for signs of rust (blown head gasket) and make sure all of the sensors/connections are the same so you wont have any OBD11 issues.
#11
Around here it's Jasper. They do rebuilt engines and transmissions!
And they have a warranty.
www.jasperengines.com
And they have a warranty.
www.jasperengines.com
#12