Aerostar Front spring replacement
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Minor point: You will also need to disconnect the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle before trying to lower the A-arm.
New springs do not come with replacement rubber isolators - make sure your old ones (upper and lower) are in relatively decent shape. There is a small notch in the bottom of the A-arm the spring end/isolator fit into - make sure they stay in place while you put the new spring back in.
New springs do not come with replacement rubber isolators - make sure your old ones (upper and lower) are in relatively decent shape. There is a small notch in the bottom of the A-arm the spring end/isolator fit into - make sure they stay in place while you put the new spring back in.
#9
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The Springs on the front of my 1995 Ford Aerostar 4.0 AWD are both cracked at the base of the springs. I ordered replacement springs from AdvanceAutoParts and they should be here today. So, I plan to do this job tomorrow (Saturday) morning.
About how long did it take you for each side?
Thanks.
About how long did it take you for each side?
Thanks.
#11
aerostar front springs
While it was'nt the most difficult job I've done on the van it was the first time for suspension work. The job took me about 6 hrs. to do both sides. The hardest part was getting the new spring to compress into the lower perch. I ultimately used a pry bar to get the back side of the spring to set in the perch, and have my son start jacking the lower control arm back up. I'm sure there is a better safer way, but I was getting tired and desperate. Please make sure you put a safety chain through the spring and the shock hole in the lower control arm. Good luck
#12
While it was'nt the most difficult job I've done on the van it was the first time for suspension work. The job took me about 6 hrs. to do both sides. The hardest part was getting the new spring to compress into the lower perch. I ultimately used a pry bar to get the back side of the spring to set in the perch, and have my son start jacking the lower control arm back up. I'm sure there is a better safer way, but I was getting tired and desperate. Please make sure you put a safety chain through the spring and the shock hole in the lower control arm. Good luck
Thanks.
#14
Ok, Followed everyone's recommendations, and here is what happened:
I actually realized I had a Spring Compressor Kit, from a job I did before.
Probably could have gotten away with just disconnecting the Tie Rod, the Upper Knuckle Ball Joint, the Strut Upper Retaining Nut, and the Sway Bar End Link.
However, I ended up determining that all of the below parts were bad/worn and in need of replacement:
Coil Springs (of course, as about 6" of the bottom of each spring was cracked off and just laying in the bottom base).
Struts (both sides).
Inner Tie Rods (both sides).
Sway Bar End Links (both sides).
Lower A-Arm Ball Joint (Passenger-side)
So, I ended up taking the Rotors AND Steering Knuckle off of the van & setting them aside, so that doing everything would be with easier access (hung the Brake Calipers up outta the way, of course).
It was time to get some more Never-Sieze (for the Upper Ball Joint bolt/nut and the Wheel Lug Nuts) & some more Blue Lock-Tite (for the the Inner Tie Rods & the Sway Bar End Links), I had trouble getting the new universal-type end link kits to compress enough to fit the bolts that came with them far enough thru to put the nuts on (so I purchased some slightly longer bolts to compress them and then put the ones from the kits back on), and the A-Arm Strut Studs were rusty/worn (one even broke off with the nut/so I purchased 4 new Grade 8 Bolts and nuts for those and Lock-Tited them on).
Since I decided to use the Spring Compressor, I had to manually crank the hell outta the spring compressor tool to take the old springs off and then manually crank the hell outta the spring compressor tool to put the new springs on.
Also, I wasted alot of time on the following (3) issues:
1) Putting the new coil springs in, I kept on having problems with the Rubber Isolators sliding out of the positions that I wanted them in (because I was re-using the old ones, I wanted the pressed areas to match up to the new springs). Finally ended up using Zip-Ties to keep them in place - zip tied them to either end of the springs and then cut them & pulled them out after the springs were in place).
2) Spent alot of time wondering if the new springs (which seemed a tiny bit wider) were in the a-arm cups good enough, because they didn't look totally seated/were slightly up on the edge of the a-arm cup. This ended up being a non-issue, as I finally decided to settle with how they were and just put it all back together, and then when I test drove it I intentionally drove in & out of my driveway (which has a steep apron/entrance) a little harder than usual. After I got out of the van and looked at the springs, they were now seated perfectly in the a-arm cups, as I call them.
3) And finally, Zip-Tying the top of the new strut to the top cup, so I didn't have to hold it up AND putting the Jack where I could operate it from the side of the van withoout moving, were instrumental to making it easier to getting the new springs installed.
All in all, because I had other issues and broken/worn parts along the way, I spent $290 total and it took me about 10 hours of actual labor time (not counting the time it took for parts to arrive in between, at the local Parts Store).
Ok, Ok, I know I am slow. Hope some or all of this info helps someone else.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
I actually realized I had a Spring Compressor Kit, from a job I did before.
Probably could have gotten away with just disconnecting the Tie Rod, the Upper Knuckle Ball Joint, the Strut Upper Retaining Nut, and the Sway Bar End Link.
However, I ended up determining that all of the below parts were bad/worn and in need of replacement:
Coil Springs (of course, as about 6" of the bottom of each spring was cracked off and just laying in the bottom base).
Struts (both sides).
Inner Tie Rods (both sides).
Sway Bar End Links (both sides).
Lower A-Arm Ball Joint (Passenger-side)
So, I ended up taking the Rotors AND Steering Knuckle off of the van & setting them aside, so that doing everything would be with easier access (hung the Brake Calipers up outta the way, of course).
It was time to get some more Never-Sieze (for the Upper Ball Joint bolt/nut and the Wheel Lug Nuts) & some more Blue Lock-Tite (for the the Inner Tie Rods & the Sway Bar End Links), I had trouble getting the new universal-type end link kits to compress enough to fit the bolts that came with them far enough thru to put the nuts on (so I purchased some slightly longer bolts to compress them and then put the ones from the kits back on), and the A-Arm Strut Studs were rusty/worn (one even broke off with the nut/so I purchased 4 new Grade 8 Bolts and nuts for those and Lock-Tited them on).
Since I decided to use the Spring Compressor, I had to manually crank the hell outta the spring compressor tool to take the old springs off and then manually crank the hell outta the spring compressor tool to put the new springs on.
Also, I wasted alot of time on the following (3) issues:
1) Putting the new coil springs in, I kept on having problems with the Rubber Isolators sliding out of the positions that I wanted them in (because I was re-using the old ones, I wanted the pressed areas to match up to the new springs). Finally ended up using Zip-Ties to keep them in place - zip tied them to either end of the springs and then cut them & pulled them out after the springs were in place).
2) Spent alot of time wondering if the new springs (which seemed a tiny bit wider) were in the a-arm cups good enough, because they didn't look totally seated/were slightly up on the edge of the a-arm cup. This ended up being a non-issue, as I finally decided to settle with how they were and just put it all back together, and then when I test drove it I intentionally drove in & out of my driveway (which has a steep apron/entrance) a little harder than usual. After I got out of the van and looked at the springs, they were now seated perfectly in the a-arm cups, as I call them.
3) And finally, Zip-Tying the top of the new strut to the top cup, so I didn't have to hold it up AND putting the Jack where I could operate it from the side of the van withoout moving, were instrumental to making it easier to getting the new springs installed.
All in all, because I had other issues and broken/worn parts along the way, I spent $290 total and it took me about 10 hours of actual labor time (not counting the time it took for parts to arrive in between, at the local Parts Store).
Ok, Ok, I know I am slow. Hope some or all of this info helps someone else.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
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pipman76
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07-05-2009 04:52 PM