I'll be putting a little light on the subject (dial up warning - pics)
#1
I'll be putting a little light on the subject (dial up warning - pics)
Just completed the installation of a set of Hella Optilux 1900s'. They are 100 watt driving lights. I mounted them in front of the AC condenser behind the grill.
Mounted on lightbar ready to go in.
In place
Relay activation wire connected to high beam power at fuse panel. Yellow wire from upper connector.
Switch mounted where 4X4 switch would be if I had a 4X4.
Will they work?
Success!!!
Mounted on lightbar ready to go in.
In place
Relay activation wire connected to high beam power at fuse panel. Yellow wire from upper connector.
Switch mounted where 4X4 switch would be if I had a 4X4.
Will they work?
Success!!!
#5
#6
#7
The lights do quite well at illuminating the road. The size of the reflectors tends to throw the light around the bars of the grill.
I made the bar from some leftover aluminum 1.5" angle and a piece of 1" X ⅛" stainless steel bar stock. The angle is 34" long and the struts are 8". The struts were attached with self drilling screws flush to the ends of the angle stock. I then drilled a ¼" hole centered ½" from the other ends of the struts. I bent the struts away from the angle stock at the line of contact and also 1" from the end where I drilled the hole. After I completed the bends I used some body shop panel adhesive to bond the three pieces together. This step had the added feature of sealing the point of contact moisture proof. I removed the two bolts that hold the brackets that support the rubber bumpers that back the bottom of the grill. The finished bar simply set in place and I replaced the bolts through the holes in the strut ends and the brackets. I then drilled a hole through the center of the bar and the center radiator support. Important Note; I needed to move the airbag impact sensor up on the radiator support about ¾" Which meant that I had to drill an additional hole for the peg that is on the back of the sensor. WHEN DRILLING THROUGH THE CENTER RADIATOR SUPPORT PLACE A STEEL BACKING PLATE BEHIND THE SUPPORT TO PREVENT DRILL PENETRATION OF THE AC CONDENSER! I then replaced the original bolt that retained the sensor to the support with another bolt and Nylock nut as the new location of the sensor means that the original nut that is welded to the support is no longer usable.
I made the bar from some leftover aluminum 1.5" angle and a piece of 1" X ⅛" stainless steel bar stock. The angle is 34" long and the struts are 8". The struts were attached with self drilling screws flush to the ends of the angle stock. I then drilled a ¼" hole centered ½" from the other ends of the struts. I bent the struts away from the angle stock at the line of contact and also 1" from the end where I drilled the hole. After I completed the bends I used some body shop panel adhesive to bond the three pieces together. This step had the added feature of sealing the point of contact moisture proof. I removed the two bolts that hold the brackets that support the rubber bumpers that back the bottom of the grill. The finished bar simply set in place and I replaced the bolts through the holes in the strut ends and the brackets. I then drilled a hole through the center of the bar and the center radiator support. Important Note; I needed to move the airbag impact sensor up on the radiator support about ¾" Which meant that I had to drill an additional hole for the peg that is on the back of the sensor. WHEN DRILLING THROUGH THE CENTER RADIATOR SUPPORT PLACE A STEEL BACKING PLATE BEHIND THE SUPPORT TO PREVENT DRILL PENETRATION OF THE AC CONDENSER! I then replaced the original bolt that retained the sensor to the support with another bolt and Nylock nut as the new location of the sensor means that the original nut that is welded to the support is no longer usable.
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