Ranger 3.0 problems
#1
03-15-2009, 07:57 PM
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Ranger 3.0 problems
My buddy has a 97 Ranger with a 3. 6 cyl and he cannot get it running right and the weird thing is that it is not throwing any codes. The first thing I wanted to ask is how to diagnose is the ECU. I am not so sure that it is not running on limp home. It starts idles well for a few minutes and the idle turns rough. On the road it acts like it is running lean meaning the more you put your foot in it the more it gasps, absolutley no power. He has checked for a intake leak, changed the TPS, 02 sensor, crank and cam sensors pulled and tested the injectors without positive results. The vacumn is fairly low at a steady 15lbs and the fuel pressure is at 37 lbs and there is no CAT.
Any educated guesses?
Any educated guesses?
#2
04-06-2009, 01:28 PM
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With running problems like this that throw no codes, The first thing to do before swapping parts and wasting time is to double dose it with gas line dryer! 2 bottles
of heet and 2 of iso heet. Water has a higher surface tension and will block small openings and not allow the fuel to get by as it is supposed to. Since it is heavier then the fuel after it has sat most of it drains down until the next time the demand hit's the
level that draws enough water back to the injectors/filter. You need to use both the methanol and the isopropyl since they work in different ways. Dump it in on whatever is in the tank 1/2 1/4 and then run it until 1/8 tank and refill with fresh fuel, A bottle of the
methanol every other oil change is good PM!!!
of heet and 2 of iso heet. Water has a higher surface tension and will block small openings and not allow the fuel to get by as it is supposed to. Since it is heavier then the fuel after it has sat most of it drains down until the next time the demand hit's the
level that draws enough water back to the injectors/filter. You need to use both the methanol and the isopropyl since they work in different ways. Dump it in on whatever is in the tank 1/2 1/4 and then run it until 1/8 tank and refill with fresh fuel, A bottle of the
methanol every other oil change is good PM!!!
#3
04-08-2009, 08:23 AM
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With running problems like this that throw no codes, The first thing to do before swapping parts and wasting time is to double dose it with gas line dryer! 2 bottles
of heet and 2 of iso heet. Water has a higher surface tension and will block small openings and not allow the fuel to get by as it is supposed to. Since it is heavier then the fuel after it has sat most of it drains down until the next time the demand hit's the
level that draws enough water back to the injectors/filter. You need to use both the methanol and the isopropyl since they work in different ways. Dump it in on whatever is in the tank 1/2 1/4 and then run it until 1/8 tank and refill with fresh fuel, A bottle of the
methanol every other oil change is good PM!!!
of heet and 2 of iso heet. Water has a higher surface tension and will block small openings and not allow the fuel to get by as it is supposed to. Since it is heavier then the fuel after it has sat most of it drains down until the next time the demand hit's the
level that draws enough water back to the injectors/filter. You need to use both the methanol and the isopropyl since they work in different ways. Dump it in on whatever is in the tank 1/2 1/4 and then run it until 1/8 tank and refill with fresh fuel, A bottle of the
methanol every other oil change is good PM!!!
#4
04-08-2009, 10:21 PM
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Well he tried the double dose and it is still running badly. He checked the fuel pressure and it is around 35 pds. He mentioned that the truck runs much better when he pinches the return line (partially) and gets the pressure up over 40lb. He has changed the regulator and the fuel pump and he claims he checked out the OEM fuel pressure and 35 is ok. Any other ideas?
#6
10-15-2010, 10:52 AM
#7
10-20-2010, 08:38 AM
After checking the fuel pressure, I would try disconnecting the MAF. Run it around the block with the MAF disconnected, and if the performance comes back, you need to clean the 'heated wires' in the MAF. Do NOT leave the MAF disconnected for longer than a test drive.
If your vintage does not have a MAF, then check the MAP sensor. Make sure that you don't have vacuum leaks. Some have found leaks at the brake booster or the hoses on the vacuum 'tree' on the firewall. The MAF won't know about the extra air, while the MAP will note the vacuum is not as high, and will add some more fuel to the mix.
tom
If your vintage does not have a MAF, then check the MAP sensor. Make sure that you don't have vacuum leaks. Some have found leaks at the brake booster or the hoses on the vacuum 'tree' on the firewall. The MAF won't know about the extra air, while the MAP will note the vacuum is not as high, and will add some more fuel to the mix.
tom
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