1960 F-100 - To seal or not to seal the gas tank...
#1
#2
I have no experience with this, but I have heard that the ethanol content in today's gasoline will eventually eat through the coating used to seal the tank, and in turn will eventually plug up your fuel system. But, like I said, I have no experience on the subject. My info could be wrong.
#3
The tank on my '60 had gas in it from 20 years ago. It turned into some black stinking goo. The inside of the tank is rusted as well. I checked at a local shop to see about geting it cleaned and sealed. It would cost as much to seal it as it would to buy a new tank. I think Mac's or LMC has them for around $200.
#4
The Por15 kit is suppose to be able to handle high alcohol content fuels see US STANDARD TANK SEALER-POR-15 Inc.
#5
Yes definately do it if you are going to pull and boil the tank. It helps prevent rust whos fine particles accumulate in the bottom of the tank and are what settles int efule lines and carb bowl when the truck sits.
Just FYI, most kits or products are a four step process - acid etching to neutralize rust (which your boil will do); washing with soap and water (which the shop will do for you); rinsing with denatured alcohol (to absorb the water left by washing); then, coating. The coating is usually nothing more than pigmented white shellac.
Just FYI, most kits or products are a four step process - acid etching to neutralize rust (which your boil will do); washing with soap and water (which the shop will do for you); rinsing with denatured alcohol (to absorb the water left by washing); then, coating. The coating is usually nothing more than pigmented white shellac.
#6
I used the POR 15 in the spring of 2000 on a Triumph Stag I own. It had sat since 1988 and the tank was a mess. It had some pin holes and was full of old gas. I used the kit and also POR putty which filled the pinholes. It's 2009 and it has not leaked or caused any issues yet.....knock wood.
The worst part was disposing of the cleaners, acid, washes, old gas that you get out of the tank during the process. Don't ask me what I did with it.
Good luck, its not a hard job, just follow instructions in the kit.
The worst part was disposing of the cleaners, acid, washes, old gas that you get out of the tank during the process. Don't ask me what I did with it.
Good luck, its not a hard job, just follow instructions in the kit.
#7
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#8
The slushing compounds I've used is rated by the FAA for use in airplane tanks even with high octane av gas (they raise the octane of gasoline by adding some pretty powerful solvents such as benzene and acetone), so I'm confident it will resist 5 or 10% alchohol especially ethanol blends (corn alchohol, the same stuff you drink in your cocktails) it's not a particularly strong solvent. I can't vouch for non FAA proprietary sealers like POR though. I would definitely advise against NOT sealing it with something, the boil out can open tiny pinholes, gas can seep through openings too small to even leak water, and the freshly cleaned metal will be even more susceptable to rusting after. Alchohol is hygroscopic, it draws water out of the air.
I would NOT use a sealer that was shellac based. Alchohol is the standard thinner for shellac.
I would NOT use a sealer that was shellac based. Alchohol is the standard thinner for shellac.
#9
I have used a pressure washer inside the tank after cleaning out all that crap.....old gas is a smell I hate.....pew
I put some oil-can't think of the name--it coats the tank and absorbs into the gas. I have no problems.....KNOCK ON WOOD.
Pressure washing does a good job......and it doesn't eat up the tank.
I have done 5 1956 tanks and so far so good.
My 53 needs done too.......but I found a deal for a new poly tank for 40.00---so that is what I will do. I will most likely pressure wash the 53 tank, anyway.....that's my way!!
Bill
I put some oil-can't think of the name--it coats the tank and absorbs into the gas. I have no problems.....KNOCK ON WOOD.
Pressure washing does a good job......and it doesn't eat up the tank.
I have done 5 1956 tanks and so far so good.
My 53 needs done too.......but I found a deal for a new poly tank for 40.00---so that is what I will do. I will most likely pressure wash the 53 tank, anyway.....that's my way!!
Bill
#10
What about the gas tank sealer that Eastwood sells?
Is that any good?
I was going to use that o my gas tanks not to seal holes and leaks (dont have leaks) but to keep the tanks from rusting and rust particles getting in the fuel.
I was going to do this to the 56 cause its been sitting along time but I thought it would be a good thing to do since I was going to strip the exterior of the tank and spray it with a zinc based tank tone aerosol paint from Eastwood when I restore the car.
But if the fuel is going to eat that sealer off and cause more problems then I will save the money and put the money to the specialty coating paint then.
Is that any good?
I was going to use that o my gas tanks not to seal holes and leaks (dont have leaks) but to keep the tanks from rusting and rust particles getting in the fuel.
I was going to do this to the 56 cause its been sitting along time but I thought it would be a good thing to do since I was going to strip the exterior of the tank and spray it with a zinc based tank tone aerosol paint from Eastwood when I restore the car.
But if the fuel is going to eat that sealer off and cause more problems then I will save the money and put the money to the specialty coating paint then.
#11
I got my panel truck tank cleaned and coated by a local radiator shop that franchised the Gas Tank Renu process. Their coating claims to resist gas, diesel, water, ethanol and methanol. Given the cost, it might have been smarter to have a new tank fabricated instead.
Gas Tank RENU - USA
Gas Tank RENU - USA