Universal Joint Replacement?
#1
Universal Joint Replacement?
I need to replace my first U-Joint on my drive shaft. My truck is a supercab longbed so there are three. It is the front (Closest to the tranny). I Already bought my replacement but I know nothing about them and how to install them. Any one have any tips or anything? Also, what tools might I need. (I'm looking at a hynes manual later but still.)
#2
I need to replace my first U-Joint on my drive shaft. My truck is a supercab longbed so there are three. It is the front (Closest to the tranny). I Already bought my replacement but I know nothing about them and how to install them. Any one have any tips or anything? Also, what tools might I need. (I'm looking at a hynes manual later but still.)
You'll need to work the joint to one side of the yoke, pressing the bearing cap out, then work it the other way pressing the other side out. Repeat for both yokes. When you get the caps out far enough on each yoke, the centerpiece should pull out, then you finish removing the caps.
When it is time to put the new joint in, just make sure that you are careful not to dislodge any of the needle rollers in the new caps. Otherwise, it can be a real bear to find them, clean them, regrease them, and put them back in. Also, be careful not to cut, or damage the rubber grease seals on each cap, or it won't last long.
Reverse the removal procedure, install the retainer clips, grease it, and you should be good to go.
Edit: It is usually much easier to do this after removing the driveshaft from the truck. Come to think of it, I'm not sure if you can actually do it without removing the driveline.
Last edited by Beastly; 03-11-2009 at 09:10 PM. Reason: Note
#4
My take would be that it is cheap insurance to do them all at once. However, my way of doing things, and pocket books, don't always fall in line.
#6
#7
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I don't have a press and this is something that is easier done with one, So I choose to have someone with a press do them.
That last time I had it done it cost me 12bux to do 2 joints, it also started a relationship with the shop and now they just tell me "I ain't doing YOUR blanking work!", and I wander over to whatever it is and do it myself.
The moral of the story, If I had not been willing to spend that 12bux a great relationship would not of developed thats been mutually benificial finacially as well as personally.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
That last time I had it done it cost me 12bux to do 2 joints, it also started a relationship with the shop and now they just tell me "I ain't doing YOUR blanking work!", and I wander over to whatever it is and do it myself.
The moral of the story, If I had not been willing to spend that 12bux a great relationship would not of developed thats been mutually benificial finacially as well as personally.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
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#11
I hope this does not come across as condescending, but, this is where the patience comes in. You need to carefully get the end caps started (using the hammer lightly, and evenly), and then gently, but firmly, press them into the yokes using the clamp, vise, or press (as suggested above).
#12
I did not get my editing done on my previous post before time expired. So here is what I want to add to it:
If you created a burr getting it apart, then remove the burr with a file, but don't take off any more metal than absolutely necessary.
Get the first end cap started using the hammer, clamp, vise, or press, (lightly, and evenly - this is the tricky part where it is easy to lose the needle bearings), and then gently press it into the yoke, using the clamp, vise, or press.
When you have the inside of the first cap in to where it is flush with the inside of the yoke, insert the u-joint center cross, and press the cap in to where the cap is flush with the outside of the yoke.
From the other side, get the cap started in the yoke, and press it down until the u-joint center cross is almost into the cap.
Then, carefully slide the center cross part-way into the second cap. Make sure that the cross is still in the other cap so the needle bearings stay in place in both caps.
At this point, you should be able to squeeze the caps together, and force them home in the yokes. You can use a socket, or washers, to press the caps past the flush point, as long as they are pretty close to the diameter of the caps. (Obviously, they can't be bigger, but if they are not big enough, too much force could damage the cap.)
Then, put in the retainer clips, and repeat for the other half of the joint.
If you created a burr getting it apart, then remove the burr with a file, but don't take off any more metal than absolutely necessary.
Get the first end cap started using the hammer, clamp, vise, or press, (lightly, and evenly - this is the tricky part where it is easy to lose the needle bearings), and then gently press it into the yoke, using the clamp, vise, or press.
When you have the inside of the first cap in to where it is flush with the inside of the yoke, insert the u-joint center cross, and press the cap in to where the cap is flush with the outside of the yoke.
From the other side, get the cap started in the yoke, and press it down until the u-joint center cross is almost into the cap.
Then, carefully slide the center cross part-way into the second cap. Make sure that the cross is still in the other cap so the needle bearings stay in place in both caps.
At this point, you should be able to squeeze the caps together, and force them home in the yokes. You can use a socket, or washers, to press the caps past the flush point, as long as they are pretty close to the diameter of the caps. (Obviously, they can't be bigger, but if they are not big enough, too much force could damage the cap.)
Then, put in the retainer clips, and repeat for the other half of the joint.
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