I agree that water is more of a concern than rocks. The steel wants to revert back to it's original state, iron oxide(if I'm not mistaken). Same with your garden at home, leave it for a while and it returns to it's own natural balance, weeds and all. I have a concern about using products that could help water retention. I'm thinking about coatings that when they start to breakdown moisture gets under them and sits against the metal surface. I would think the thicker the coating the worse this could be, maybe this is not a concern but all coatings break down at some point. Thats why I tend to be a big fan of oil based products. The products breakdown by leaving your vehicle. It's just a matter of spraying on more as required. An oil based product seeps into all the seems too. I have my 95 box off now upside down in my shop. After inspecting all the sheet metal I found that any rust was found where two or more metals joined forming a seam. There was no rust on the flat surfaces. I sand blasted the underside of the box, primed with an epoxy, and top coated with the factory color. Ford was great at using only a primer on the under side of the box, and minimal amounts of paint on the rad support, inside fenders... the list goes on. I'll use an oil based rust proofing on all seams before I install the box.

 

The Reason rust forms where seams meet is that two metals are dissimilar causing a certian type of corrosion (cant remember the name) if you put rubber or plastic (teflon works real good) between the seems then bolt them together the seems will not rust as quickly, and no matter how you have somehting sealed, if there is exposed metal anywhere on the part it will begin to corrode. If you have the part completely by itself coat it, then line it with a teflon protection to prevent chaffing (rubbing) you can prevent break down of the metal from happening as quickly.


Randy - Just another Ford Lover

 

 

I hadn't thought of the flamability issue of bedliners but some of them are really thick. I use a lot of POR 15 products and will continue. it is extrememly hard. You can get it on ebay where it's similar cost to local when you add shipping. the por-15 goes a long way. I also use the epoxy type putty- it's way cool and I can cover some non structural holes without having to worry about rust. I will undercoat with it when I get to that point.

 

I am mid project on a ground up overhaul of my 68 f100
I used POR15 their High Gloss Black on the frame, axel housing, I-beams, and front spindles after putting all the pieces I could through an electrolysis bath for 2 to 3 days to neutralize all the rust even in the pores of the metal. I used the metal ready on everything and then applied the basecoat POR15 and then the HG Black topcoat. I also did the leaf Springs with there sterling silver. Thought the Axel housing looked beautiful as like it was just pored liquid.
One thing no one has mentioned about POR15 is that what ever the coating is it cures stronger with moisture. It really isn’t paint. It draws the moisture from the metal during the curing process and literally stops all corrosion underneath.
I live in the north-east and besides water they love to salt the roads here in the winter. The great thing about POR15 is it was designed for boats originally to help resist sea water. They tell you right in the sales stuff that the Base coat is UV sensitive and should be top coated.
I’ll be honest this is the first large scale application I’m using the stuff for. I like the fact that it levels nice even brushed on. I recommend the cheap sponge applicators for putting it on as they are cheaper then the brushes and you don’t leave stray hairs on your piece. Additionally the sponges add to the leveling affect and don’t distort to much when you have to dab a lot of corners. I have noticed that it has a tendency to foam in spots where too much zinc has collected so I suggest you dab up any spots where it pools on your piece so as to leave just a light film. For a frame or the underside of a vehicle I would not spray the stuff as thinning it makes it less affective.
I am planning to do the entire truck in the base coat. And have been a little worried about how to do the topcoat.
Darkman mentioned you can get an Epoxy Primer to adhere while the POR15 is tacky.
Is there a real savings over the POR15 Primer?
If you use the epoxy I would think blowing a coat of the base coat on, letting it set up and then do a second coat letting that go tacky would give nice results when you blow the Epoxy on.
I did the C6 Trans with the High-Heat Bright aluminum and high gloss Black on the Steel Shaft end. The Bright aluminum looks close to a fresh cast. Dabbing and even strokes with the sponge pad add to this.
I have been doing metal restoration on antiques for 21 years and have used Rustoleum for furniture and other things. I have to say that it covers well for a modern paint (lead free). And at around 40 bucks a gallon it is much more affordable then high end PPG or other Auto industry paints. Por15 base coat is 90 bucks a gallon. Their top coat colors are limited as well. But for basic interior and underbody work it is what I choose.
I will be doing a three color fade job for the body black to white to blue with plenty of freshly polished chrome and aluminum. I will probably use PPG Epoxy over the POR15 Self etching Primer as there are outlets for both products near my place.
Once its cured you can’t scratch POR15 though and I think if you have a good spray booth you could get an awesome finish that would take a lot more then anything else.
I also have picked up light Grey Rattleguard bed liner which I will be using in the bed and inside the cab not underneath. Though, the Idea of doing the wheel wells with black bed liner does appeal to add to the protection and sound deadening.
As for it being Flammable: Yes it will burn when it is first sprayed but it contains Kevlar and once it is cured unless you spread an accelerant over it like gasoline it’s not likely to burn rapidly. I don’t plan on using carpet in my truck as that is what added to the rust problem on the floorboards. The padding trapped the moisture against the floor and ate right through over time.
I say moisture is the enemy too.
Also the spray bed liner cleans up easy, kills the road hum, and is easier to install or repair then the carpet. 400 bucks and you do the job of 1600 dollars worth of sound dampening pads, carpet, custom interior finishes and fillers.
Since you can adjust the surface of it from smooth, to rough, and in between by adjusting the air pressure I will be able to create an awesome custom finish that will last for years longer then any carpet ever could. Carpets are made Flame retardant not Flame Proof. They burn too. I also keep a couple of Fire extinguishers in my car or truck all the time. In the case of my Ford I have always had two in the cab one under the hood next to the battery. They are 20 dollars for a small Kiddie brand Dry-chemical extinguisher at stores like Wal-Mart. Besides saving money on repairs by saving your vehicle they could save your life, someone you care about, or just somebody else on the highway by just having it with you.

 

" don’t plan on using carpet in my truck as that is what added to the rust problem on the floorboards"


I think carpet is fine once por 15 is applied. I'm in the process of using the por 15 and will throw down the i/o carpet that i just got for $28 at home depo. I'm expecting no rust but we will see.

 

I used a product called "Chassis Saver by Magnet Paints" on my frame and the suspension parts for my 77F250. I'm still in the process of the restoration so It hasn't seen any road action. I am curious to the durability. It dries like POR-15, uses air moisture to cure. A gallon of the stuff is about 75 bucks, much cheaper than POR-15. I have talked to a classic restoration shop and the guy there swears by it. So, I guess what I want to know is, has anyone had any experience with the product and how does it compare to POR-15. I want to coat the underside of my bed, cab, fenders, you name it. I had thought about undercoating the cab and also the inside of the cab with rhino lining. I still may do the inside to act as the rubbor floor mat, but i am going to install carpeting. Carpet is bad if moisture gets trapped, therefore the reason for doing the inside of the cab with rhino lining. plus is will deaden some noise. I would have alot of money tied up with rhino lining if i coated everything i wanted to. Also, is Rhino lining really flammable?

 

I do know that easton makes a similar (but different) product (por-15) and a magazine tested the two and found the easton to be better...I'm curious too and if you find out...please share the news.

I am reallt impressed with the urethane liner and they are tougher than the poly but not near as thick...and you'd have to etch por-15 prior and i want por-15 against the metal as i doubt anthing is tougher than it.

 

Line-X offers to coat frames,chassis,floors,undercoating type things. There is no flammability issues as far as they are concerned. If there was I doubt they could legally install it that way.

 

Por-15 says you could paint it right on to a RUSTY frame?
Just paint right over it?
TONY Z.
#40

 

You can apply it like. You need to clean it with a good degreaser. theres is called marine clean and is water soluble. Then spray it down with zinc-phosphate, ie Metal ready. Once thats dry your ready to apply the POR15. They're product cures by moisture obsorbtion. Its suposed to lock up the rust and since it becomes rock hard and impermiable once its cured no moisture gets back in to allow the corosion precess to continue. First time I ever heard of the stuff was back in the late 80's at a local car show. The girl had three pieces of of scrap painted with cured Por15 a case of the paint and three screwdrivers. All she said was "try to scratch it" and nobody could. Back then you couldn't spray the stuff so I never used it till now. I have been restoring and fabricating metal since 87. I chose the stuff for my 68 f100 because it was designed for salt water boats originaly and I only dont wont to have to do the work over again I de-rust everything first because if you want a good finnish prep is everything.
John

 

por 15 is supposed to adhere best to a rusty surface. So like johnny said...prep with cleaner and the zink which also etches the surface more. You have to get rid of any layered rust ie flakes that cover rust beneath. The products needs to make direct contact to the single plane of surface rust or you just cover untreated hidden rust. It's hard stuff.

 

I believe we have a winner here....lol por15 is the best stuff I have ever used....I redid a 1981 RX7 and it was horribly rusted on the rear axle and diff etc...por15 was put on right onto the rear axle and all I did was pressure wash it...it has been on for 4 years now and used on salty ontario winter roads...never did i see any rust come through and my buddy who owns it now says it is still looking like the day it was painted on...(if he cleans it)...I'm not putting down the idea as it may work..but this stuff will be my goto product anytime I have to do any of that again..it is bulletproof..expensive... but worth every penny because it works just as they say it will..