How can I tell if my diesel engine is a powerstroke
I have a 1994 F-250 with a 7.3 liter diesel. It says turbo diesel on the fenders below the F-250 symbol, but does not say powerstroke. I need to find a rebuilt turbo for it as I am pretty sure the seals are blown due to the oil leakage and exxess usage. I am trying to determine if mine is a regular turbo or a powerstroke motor so I don't buy the wrong turbo. Can anyone help me out on how to tell the difference?
Well, the 8th letter of the VIN is an F, and the engine looks more like the image of the powerstroke picture than the others, but on the black cover in the center of the engine it has "diesel" on both sides and "direct injection" in the middle, but it does not have the word powerstroke. Can any of you point me in the direction of finding a rebuilt replacement turbo? I greatly appreciate the help!
Sounds like a Powerstroke, but to make sure look at the top inside (valley side) of the valve covers. If you have two (one front & one rear) electrical connections on the vavle cover gasket, then it's a PSD, if you see metal fuel lines and small injectors, then it's an IDI.
For your turbo on a PSD, check out ebay, there is a guy on there "Ron's Turbo Shop" that has good prices and does really good work. A bunch of people on here are running his turbos. I don't think he's listed under his name, so run a search for 7.3L turbos or powerstroke turbo and then look for him, make sure it's Ron's.
As stated above, make sure it's not just your o-rings leaking, cause they are cheap turbo's are not.
95 F250, XLT, 2WD, 5 Spd, 4.10 l/s, SuperCab, Longbed. Beans Stage II's, Adrenaline HPOP, Wildman 6 pos. chip, SMF, Open air intake, EBPV gutted, SSX, downpipe, CAT gutted, shimmed FPR, GPR control switch, gauges (Pyro, Boost, AMPs, mechanical Oil Pres. & mech. Water Temp.)
02 F150 Super Crew, Lariat (Wife's)
81 Bronco with 460
Last edited by plowhand; 02-12-2009 at 01:14 PM.
I am running a Ron Holland 1.00 A/R turbo. If you suspect your turbo, you might be dollars ahead to replace it. I had a bad oil leak in my intake tract and the engine was burning a lot of oil. I had no idea what was going on and a short time later when the bearings finally let go, I had a pile of junk on my hands. If the exhaust turbine contacts the housing, it is of no use as a core. That cost me $110 due to the damaged turbine.
On a lighter note, the 1.00 A/R was built using new components. Some of the holes in the housing (like the EBPV harness attachment) need to be tapped. It builds boost as low as 800 RPM. My stocker did not build until nearly 2000. It took my fuel economy from 9.9 to 12.68. I am hoping further mods will bring this number up further.
Replacement is not for the faint of heart or the inexperienced. It sukked.
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