No your NOT getting hosed, Most shops dont use rebuile parts, there ALL BRAND NEW. also, most shops will have a higher price even if the part is NEW reguardless of the orgin.....

 

You can get the bearing assembly on ebay for under $130 now. Just make sure you follow the directions and order the right one for your truck. Pay attention to the type of ABS system your truck has. All you need to get is a new o-ring for it and install. It's a real easy job.

 

To the OP,

Get the bearing from somewhere online. I wouldnt pay too much over 300 for the bearing depending if you have 2 or 4 wheel ABS. Its not that difficult to install it yourself with a jack/jackstands, few hand tools, and some PB Blaster. Its literally 8 bolts, an o-ring, and the new knuckle seal (if that seal is bad). You will need a seal driver but you can make one of those on your own. I would get that changed out ASAP if its your daily driver. 60 bucks for the seal driver, knuckle seal, and o-ring. The cost of the bearing and your time is all thats left. The only thing you need to take your knuckle itself off is the ball joints IIRC.

As long as your needle bearings arent dry you should be ok with your shafts.


Look what I said above Inspector! Its not hard to do at all! Just remember the yellow o-ring.

 

I didn't realize that the parts from Timken or Dorman were rebuilds from used. I figured they were new parts. Look, I understand that shops need to turn a profit, and that bumping the price on parts helps their bottom line, but $200 over parts that are for sale at online vendors seems excessive, IMHO, especially if the shop is getting their parts at wholesale/bulk pricing. Whatever. The quote was $1300+ to replace both hub assemblies (parts and labor) plus alignment. I told them to just do the left side since it was the only one failing.

Thanks for your advice on the DIY option Tristan. I will definitely consider this when it comes time to do the right side. Is alignment necessary after replacing the hub assembly, or just recommended? Is it a good idea to go ahead and replace the knuckle since it's all torn down?

Thanks for your input guys,
-Adam

 

Alignment after the hub bearing...I wouldnt worry about it. Unless you do your ball joints I dont think it needs it. The bearing bolts into the knuckle and only spins...nothing with steering. The actual knuckle is a pretty penny and unless broken/bad shape doesnt need to be replaced, even when everything is torn down.

If that knuckle seal is worn out make sure they replace it. Mine failed and let water and such in and I guess ruined the bearing, not to mention my ESOF didnt work...