There are 2 sizes listed for this bearing.

Spicer 1310 and a Spicer 1410. How do I know which one I need?

 

On my old OBS 89 F250 I got the larger on from NAPA.

 

I second going to NAPA.
I was replacing all three U-joints and the carrier bearing.
I wanted joints with zerks so I could lube them periodically.
They asked me a few questions about my truck and then sent the parts.
All of them were correct.

 

Couple things, I hope you mean 1350, and 1410, because a 1310 is halfton driveline. Secondly the 1350 has a cap diameter of 1.187", and so does the 1410. The diameter accross a 1350 is 3.625 inches, while the 1410s diameter is 4.188 inches. I know some people such as Dan (right above) like greaseable joints, and Im ok with that, but the oem joints were spicer non greasable u joints. They last in the neighborhood of 100k miles plus. Our early 99 actually had 230k on the oem joints, and they were still tight. The driveshaft shop I get them balanced at, and double cardans repaired, always comments on the "very good u joints" i have, when I take them in to get balanced. The spicer non greasables are in the 20-40 dollar range, but to me they are worth every penny.

 

Also, heres a link to a site that has both joint sizes, and in the non greasables, and other options, and their measurements.

1350s

Dennys Driveshafts > 1350 Series Spicer Maintenance Free u-joint


1410s

Dennys Driveshafts > 1410 Series Spicer Maintenance Free U-joint for Diesel Pick-ups

 

Subscribing.

 

had the listing for the 1310 and the 1410. (I did not see 1350)

I now know I need the 1410 after going to the napa website.


Thanks again for the assistance.

Andy

 

To find out which "Driveshaft Center Support Bearing" (a carrier bearing is an in-correct term, as it's inside the rear end) is required, the only way Ford parts catalogs do it, is by the driveshaft application.

The difference pertains to the wheelbase and whether your truck (2002 F250 SD 7.3 4WD) has SRW's or DRW's. U-joint sizes make no difference.

There is one bearing used for most applications, another used for a few applications, but without knowing what your configuration is, I cannot help.

With these newer trucks, it's sooo EZ to find out what parts are needed.

All you have to do is give your VIN to a dealer, from that, they can tell you which parts you need...for the ENTIRE truck!

Contact FTE sponsor: FTEpartsguy.com (Ed Olson @ PARR FORD in Bremerton WA) for assistance.

Ed's link is on this page among the sponsors.

 

Usually its that easy, and the VIN will give them everything. Driveshafts are not always correct in that. I was out of town, when my first joint on the rear axle went out. (due to the vibration dampner) I gave them both my vin, and wheelbase, and cab\bed configuration. They gave me a 1350 joint. 1350 Joints were used when the double cardan rear axle shaft was in place. On the same wheelbase truck. (Our early 99 has that setup) However, my 2002 has the standard two u joints per shaft, and has 1410 joints. (How mad was I when I got back to the truck, installed the first cap on, and then found the joint to be tooo short!!!! Removed the cup and back to the dealer, with a loaned ride again)

I believe the only time 1350 joints were used, is when there is a double cardan joint, on the shaft. If it has a double cardan, all three joints are 1350. Which includes the front shaft, which I think they exclusively used 1350 joints. Havent had to work on a vehicle with a driveshaft bearing, so I cant say its true for them.

 

Ok.. I got the bearing.. now to install it...

What special tools will I need?

I do not have a press. Will I be able to do this without the press?

 

You have the bearing, or the u joint?

 

I have a new center support bearing for the driveshaft.

 

***** Last week I bought u-joints and center bearing. U-Joints are WRONG, The good news is I was going to put them in and saw this thread and checked. Off to get the right ones. THANKS.. Now I have to go thru garbage and find receipt

 

I honestly do not know how the support bearing comes off. I have only distantly seen them, and never had to work on a truck with one. If you snap a picture of how it looks, I could probably figure it out, looking at it, but hopefully someone who has done it will chime in.

 

When i got mine done, it had to be pressed on.

Here's my thread about it:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...riveshaft.html