I've started the build on my 79 ford dana 70 rear end now and I've started with disc brakes. Plans are 5:13 gears and detroit or an ARB locker I might be getting cheap from a shop where the customer ordered and never went through with it. Anyways I've had the hubs lathed down a small amount to make a perfect fit on my 77 chev 3/4 front rotors. Now guys seem to be using the same calipers that go with the rotors and work well but my problem is they have no e-brake which I need because I do drive this on the street as well and it would never pass a vehicle inspection without this. So I know there is a few options: 78 cadilac edelardo calipers have a e-brake but I've heard the e-brake doesn't hold worth a S%$# with big tires. Now I've been looking to maybe using rear calipers from some of the newer dodge,chev, or ford trucks to make work because I'm sure they will hold well and have good stopping power. I found a guy close to me with a wrecking yard with Lots of these new rear ends he says but they are buried in snow as of recently. My other option would be to build a driveshaft brake which could be easily done because I already have a 1350 cv with a mounting flange on my T case and a driveline rotor from high angle drivelines in california could be sandwiched between the two and some sort of e brake caliper used. So my question is has anyone done anything like this? Any help would be appreciated...

 

I think you will find most all of those late model disc brake calipers with e brakes will actualy have a small set of brake shoes incorporated into the rotor. If a Caddy caliper is kept in adjustment it will hold just fine.

 

You are gonna pass an inspection with 49" IROKS?
Regardless, there is not a single parking brake that is gonna be suitable for holding large tires. I used to run a driveline brake, and while it worked, it was still a pain, and now sits on my work bench. Sometimes it holds a door open in the summer time.
As a parking brake it worked just ok. It also packed with mud, and would wear out pads right away. That thing turns many many rpms and even though the brake is not engaged, it still drags, and wears the pads, as well as gets pretty hot.

Late model rear disc brakes, are difficult and expensive to install, since they use a hat style rotor, and the parking brake is actually inside of the rotor, and does not use the caliper to engage any clamping force. These little parking brakes use a small set of brakes shoes, and not the actuall pad. The little shoes are just not very effective.
This is why the caliper without any parking brake attachment is so widely used.

The big fix here is to use a micro-lock style hydraulic pressure solenoid. The solenoid allows you to pump the brakes, and create pressure while the solenoid has changed state. This will hold pressure until the solenoid is once again changed. This is a very low cost solution, and was DOT approved. There is also a lever style valve that did the same thing.
Perhaps this can provide you with the ability to set the brakes when parked. Advantage here is that all 4 brakes can be applied. This will prevent your rig from rolling away.
If this does not pass inspection, then maybe the El Do calipers and a hydraulic locking system would work.

 

As far as I know micro brakes are only allowed as a temporary braking system and are not recommended for use as a park brake... had one on a company one ton and was told it was ok to use them as such, then one day... the truck rolled down very steep hill... hit three parked cars... rolled to stop in ditch... me got big ticket for not having proper e-brakes...

 

I have yet to have a truck roll away. My engines have enough compression to keep my manual transmission vehicles from running away, and my autos have a park detent. I have never relied on a parking brake to keep my rides from getting away.

See, no parking brake:


Probably should have been more specific, and stated that the MICO lock is a suplimental system, and is designed to be used with an existing parking brake. If the El Do calipers are used, and the brakes are not capable of holding the truck with 49" tires, then a secondary system should be used. In the case where 4 wheel lock up is desired, then the MICO Dualock should be used.

If you lost a vehicle as a result of lost brakes, it would appear that the parking brake also failed, and the vehicle was left in neutral. The system should have had a warning system, and if it was not set properly, and other devices failed, I am sure that it was not the fault of the MICO lock. I have seen plenty of these not properly set, and many without the low pressure warning system. These commonly fail, and again not the problem with the design, it was operator error.
I have run these systems in plenty of equipment with much success.
I really do not know of any other way to get positive braking with such large tires. Perhaps giant rotors, and such, but the OP just bought new tires and wheels, so he is limited to a stock style rotor.

Another problem with the driveline brake, is that if one tire has super low traction, and an open diff, the brake will not work at all. Interesting to see this. We see this problem with rockwells and pinion brakes.

 

if you have not already bought everything, take a look here.
Ford Rear Disc Brake Kits for 9", Dana 60, Dana 70 and Sterling

direct bolt on stuff with no modifications needed, at good prices.

 

I'm not actually worried of my truck rolling away my motor is very fresh and has maybe 400 km's on it now with a 4 speed. I would just like to keep it street legal (or somewhat bumper height may be a issue lol). I'm actually running 44's. I had my bro's 49's on couple weeks ago but those things are so ridiculous they limit the turning radius cuz the tire hits the leafs. They run VERY smooth though, surprisingly. Anyways 75 350 looks like you run the chev calipers I mentioned. Are those calipers 2 pistons?I wonder what the actual stopping power is vs. the caddy calipers? I would prefer better brakes over ok brakes with an e-brake then run a line lock like you mentioned. I see in those kits they have an option for a e-brake caliper I wonder what they use? I don't like the idea of a driveshaft brake after what you said about it wearing out very fast and getting hot. It might look cool I guess. I was thinking I might just burn a mounting bracket at my shop out of some 1/2 plate but NorthWest Fabworks up here can probably get them for me for pretty reasonable as well. I don't really want it to be bolted with spacers like I heard of though. I would rather relocate closer to the caliper or have a bracket with a slight bend to it

 

A Sterling with disc brakes should be a easy junk yard find, at least in my area. I bought everything to put disc on my Dana 70 a while back but I haven't done it yet. After putting a dual diaphgram F350 booster & master on it I don't really see the need to now & I run 42's. It stops fine with the 3" wide shoes. If I ever decide to do it one thing I won't do is machine the hubs for the rotors. I would machine the rotors to fit the hub. That way I could go back if for some reason it doesn't work out for me.

 

machining the inside of the rotor would of made the stud holes pretty close to the edge of the rotor compromising strength. Only a small amount of material was lathes off the hub on the high spot which come into contact with rotor. So even if you wanted to go back it would be easy enough to weld material back on to those spots and lathe back to drum size. Question: what year brake booster did you put in and when I do run rear discs do I now get rid of my porportioning valve??

 

I bought the dual diaphragm booster & master cylinder for a '79 F350 2wd. The prop valve would stay with the disc, but you might want to put a adjustable one in for the rear. I don't know for sure I never got that far with it. Ed would be better to answer that.

 

just finished reading HUGE article on pirate 4x4 on 4wheel discs and it looks like the valve would be scrapped. Found out how hydro boost works instead of power brakes running off the power steering pump giving a massive advantage. My braking now sucks I can't wait to finish this project up. I went with the chevy calipers at only $23 a piece plus core it was so cheap. All I need is the bracket and banjo style brake lines which I will get custom made stainless braided with a fitting for a small3/16 brakeline fitting. I still think I'm going to make the bracket especially learning that most are made from 1/4 plate and have a tendency to twist!

 

I run an original prop valve with an F350 booster on one truck: Locks up all 4 (42" IROKS)
Then I run a stock F250 master and booster with a adjustable prop valve, and I can lock up all four, two,,,,,,mmmm,, maybe three times in a row. (40" Boggers)
I also run a F350 master and 350 booster with no prop valve at all, and this will lock up all four, maybe twice. (44" boggers)
Last is a Full hydro boost, with all stock metering. This system works the best of all of them. This will clamp down anytime, anywhere. (40" boggers and 42" Iroks)

Eventually all of the rigs wil recieve hydro boost. This really is the hot ticket.

Each braking system system seems to have its own character. you will just have to build a system, and dial it in.

 

can you rob a hydro boost from a newer style truck and make it work they look pretty pricey new

 

Hydro boost is actually made by Bendix, and can be found on many trucks. Used to come on some ford cars too. You can rod it from about anything and make it work.

Here is a tip though:
If you rob from a donor chebby truck, make sure you rob everything associated with the system. Especially the hardware like the rods and any linkages. I have tried to find parts at the dealership, and while all of the systems are similar, they all had slightly different variations, even from vehicles from the same year. It will be impossible to find little pieces that could prove to be necessary. get everything, and I mean everything.
It will make for an easy swap.

PLenty of giys use the SD set up. Not so spendy, but finding late model stuff in a salvage yard can be a little difficult, and probably more expensive since demand is different. Older units are everywhere, and cheap.