Yeah, I hope mine did, not sure how to know. After I thought about it maybe it'd been better to start with pulling the plug and draining the pan first but it's probably six one way, half a dozen the other in regards to that.

Mark would you weigh in on my methods above please? I'd like to have your thoughts.

 

Some fluids use tiny particles as anti-foaming agents. These particles are large enough that they can stick the solenoids in a TorqShift. MERCON SP does not have this. I don't know the specifics of Mobil 1 to know if it does or not, that's why I said it might.

 

First, I've never tried to flush a TorqShift. That's why I have not written a procedure how to do it. I can tell you what I think, but it isn't backed up by experience.

Driving 30 miles probably won't get the trans hot enough, unless it was a very hot day and you had a load and did a lot of stop and go.

If it isn't hot enough the thermostat is going to be closed and fluid will come out of both ends when the line is opened.

Other than that you procedure makes sense to me.

 

Mark,

That's probably what happened to me....ie: fluid did come out of both ends, although interesting to me that the end I expected the most (the line going back to the rear of the trans) had the least coming out of it and the hose end (coming from the cooler) had the most. Guess the thermostat wasn't opened so i wasted my time heating the fluid....correct? Maybe that's why most places don't have heated fluid??? This is telling me that most of the flushes done isn't really doing us alot of good.....ie: you drive to the dealer, it sits in their lot and cools down, the tech drives it in the shop, flushes it and the thermostat isn't open.

Why would the trans have to be so hot to open the thermostat and circulate the fluid from the torque converter? Doesn't make sense to me that the fluid is never circulating unless the trans is in extremely hot conditions??? That would mean the thermostat is never open in most of our driving conditions??? You're the expert not doubting you at all....it just worries me on how to do proper maintenance.

Anyway, at least it flushed maybe to a 40-50% capacity. Guess i'll wait till summer and do it again.

 

Why would the thermostat open before the trans is up to temp? That doesn't make sense to me. Until the trans is over 170F 90% of the flow from the torque converter is sent to lube and then to the pan. Once the thermostat opens 100% of the flow goes to the cooler, then lube, then the pan. 170F isn't so hot, that's the temperature the trans was designed to operate at.

 

Install a tranny temp gauge....that'll tell you when the fluid is hot enough....

 

I don't think people understand how Universal ATF fluids work. It's not a matter of selecting a "middle of the road" fluid in terms of visc and coefficient of friction, even though that alone would work. "Universal" ATF has "selective friction modifiers" that react differently according to the clutch material they encounter.

I wish I could explain further, but the info is from additive experts for various companies. It would be enough to pick a "middling" fluid like I said, because as fluids age the friction modifiers wear out and the base oil is sheered down. So, the ATF changes over time....it "rooster tails" if you graph if. ATFs are a LOT more interchangeable than people think, as long as you stay away from highly modified ATF like ATF+4.

In this case, I can't speak to the SP issue since Mobil disapproves it's use in SP apps. I will say that slightly thicker ATF is better than slightly thinner, unless you are in an arctic climate. My opinion is that it will be fine after a little sheering etc. I'll review the thread to see how it's driving for you.

 

Well this thread is about 8 years old and the OP has been inactive for the past 6+ years.
I wouldn't wait by the keyboard for a response.

 

I plan on cutting the trans cooler out line, running it in park till it's 4q out or there's bubbles.

Drop the pan, filter and replace the old pan. I was going to install a pan with a drain, but in place of the spliced line, I'm adding an inline strainer with a clear removable bowl.





There's also a bigger one, I'll try this....the price is right.

This way i can still drain a portion for future fluid service by just removing the bowl and running it. The mesh screen is a plus, esp if you may have a crudded trans.

 

My pan has a drain. Yours should too.

 

I don't know what you're working on but the pan already has a drain. Also the return line up front from the cooler is a rubber hose with a clamp.
Drain the pan.
Reinstall the drain plug.
Disconnect rubber hose and drain.
Change canister filter.
Put a clear hose on the disconnected trans-lines and run them into a bucket that is marked in quart increments.
Refill the pan with new fluid.
Have someone start the truck and watch the fluid in the clear hose.
When 4 qrts are drained out shut it off.
Refill 4 qts.
Restart the truck and immediately shift it through the gears (foot hard on the brakes).
Continue those steps of running and refilling until the fluid in the clear hose is new bright red.
Remove the hoses, reconnect the factory hose and clamp.
Top off.
Done.

That sediment filter you showed looks like what is used for rv's water pump prefilter. It's probably not rated for petroleum products and won't hold up. If it fails while you're driving you can imagine what may happen.

Also if you're working on an 03-07 6.0 you can replace the existing pan and filter with one from a 2008. The 2008 pan/filter has better filtering properties. There's threads around here on the subject. Do a search.

 

What about the internal thermostat? When the trans is cooler than 170°F 90% of what normally goes to the cooler is rerouted back to the pan. So the old and new fluids mix, then some of it goes to the cooler line.

 

Hi Mark.
With the clear hoses hooked to BOTH sides of the return line that is before the canister filter, you get plenty of flow of old fluid. I usually do it hot too.
This video shows just what I'm saying. Actually I think you're mentioned in it. You'll see there is flow even cold.

 

Since the thread was resurrected from the grave here is my two cents worth.

That filter has no business anywhere under a truck, unless it's on a trailer and mounted on a weed sprayer.

Price is right indeed

Common plastic and good for 120* max. Not sure I would roll the dice on that fix.

 

Pete - I think the point MK was making was that the new fluid and the old fluid will mix and this will complicate the "flush". Unfortunately we don't have many options with the transmission fluid maintenance. I just drain the fluid and replace 3 or so times over the course of a week. It gets most of the fluid out, but it is a waste of fluid for sure. Your method would be quicker and probably waste less fluid. It is a shame we have had to "work so hard" at figuring out how to do transmission fluid maintenance, but I guess the future is to eventually take it out of our hands completely (fill for life trend).