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Old 12-06-2008, 05:29 PM
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How to test IPR?

How do you test an IPR valve?

I'm trying to run down what seems to be a high pressure oil system leak. I pulled the IPR, but I'm not sure how to tell whether it's functioning correctly or not. I'm also not sure if it runs on a full twelve volts, or some lower figure.

TIA!
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Old 12-06-2008, 05:45 PM
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The only test I am familiar with requires a Diagnostic tool.

The IPR valve is basically a solenoid and that if 12 volts is applied it would close the valve.

Was the harness OK and the screen free from debris?

Could the high pressure relief valve be leaking by?
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:02 PM
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I don't know what the high pressure relief valve is. Probably under the HPOP cover, and we'll be tearing into that next week.

We applied a few psi of air pressure to the screen end of the IPR, and air escaped through the larger holes in the shaft. Then we applied 12 volts to the valve and again applied air to the end, and air still escaped at the same rate. Messed around with it for a while and after actually banging it on the table the valve would audibly click and shut and not allow air through. This led us to believe the valve was bad, so we put in another valve. However, the truck's HPO leak symptoms persisted after buttoning everything back up again.

So how do you test the IPR with a diagnostic tool, and are you certain it functions on 12 volts?
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Old 12-06-2008, 10:10 PM
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The IPR can be jumped to 12 volts with the battery,it requires cutting the pigtail or spare parts.At 12 volts the IPR is 100% closed. Shop air pressure on the system will sound leaks.
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Old 12-07-2008, 06:45 AM
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What do you mean "it requires cutting the pigtail or spare parts"? You can't just put 12v on the pins inside the connector on the IPR?

(sorry, forgot to mention earlier) The IPR harness appeared to be in satisfactory condition, and the screen had a little bit of stuff on it, but not nearly enough to cause any type of restriction.
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Old 12-07-2008, 10:38 AM
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If you can get your hands under the turbo to connect to the pins there is no reason not to do it that way. The IPR may become damaged if a full 12 volts is applied for more than a couple minutes. Are you just testing the IPR out of the truck or are you trying to pressurize the system?If its out of the truck it will make a quiet click when it closes 100% with the full 12 volts applied.
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:05 AM
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We pulled the old IPR and tested it on the bench with a solenoid tester (11.xx volts). At first, the old one didn't click and continued to let air in the screen and out the holes on the shaft when energized. However, after getting rough with it (i.e. tapping it on the work bench a few times) it audibly clicked when energized and stopped allowing air flow through it. At that point we thought the IPR must be the cause of my HPO issues, so I bought a new IPR.

However, when we tested the new one, it didn't close when energized either. We scratched our heads for a while before deciding to install the new one and hope for the best, but after buttoning back up the engine ran with the same symptoms (missing worse and worse until it stalls).

So that is where we are at currently, and we believe one or more of the following are true:

1) We weren't testing the IPRs correctly.
2) We were testing them correctly, and they were both faulty.
3) Both the old and the new IPR were functioning correctly, and something else is still causing the HPO leak.

We did not air pressurize the system to look/listen for a leak, but if the IPR possibility is eliminated and we have to pop the HPOP cover and valve covers, we will certainly do so at that point.

However, at this point, we suspect something is amiss with the IPR; either our testing procedure or the fuctionality of the valves. I believe we need to verify we were testing the IPR valves correctly to eliminate some possibilities.

And, on a bit of a side note:
Do you have a source for part numbers? I'd like to pick up the kit with the o-rings, d-rings, and gaskets necessary for "replacing" the HPOP, and I can't find a part number anywhere. I'd also like to find part numbers for other parts in the HPO oil rails, injectors, and any other possible leaking points. If the IPR proves to not be the cause of my running issues and we have to dig deeper anyway, I would like to replace as many of the o-rings, d-rings, gaskets, seals, etc... in the HPO system as possible to avoid this issue in the future.
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:18 AM
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Pop the valve covers off and pressurize the system before replacing HPO parts.The leak could be at an injector or a branch tube the o rings or even the pump its self. Without testing the system first it will get very expensive in a hurry.The IPR needs the wires hooked up one way only to make it close so you may have had the wires backwards.As for part #s I am out of town so I'll have to phone home and get the wife to dig out the invoices.
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
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Pop the valve covers off and pressurize the system before replacing HPO parts.The leak could be at an injector or a branch tube the o rings or even the pump its self.
Our current game plan is this - If the IPR is proves to not be the cause, the HPOP cover will come off and we will pressurize the system through the top of the pump (is that possible, by pressing a rubber air hose fitting onto the hole on the top of the pump?). If the leak is not inside the HPO area, then the valve covers will come off and we will pressurize the system again to search the oil rails and injectors. Does this sound like a reasonable way to proceed?

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Without testing the system first it will get very expensive in a hurry.
Are the parts expensive, or are you just talking labor?

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Originally Posted by brickie View Post
The IPR needs the wires hooked up one way only to make it close so you may have had the wires backwards.
Good point. I'll verify the test wire connections when retesting the IPR.

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As for part #s I am out of town so I'll have to phone home and get the wife to dig out the invoices.
Brickie... If that's a PITA for your wife, then don't worry about it. We may not get back under the hood for a couple of weeks (heading to Cancun the day after tomorrow). However, it may be nice to have the (cheaper) parts ordered and here by the time we get back.

Thanks a ton!
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:43 AM
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It will be easier to remove one of the valve covers and pressurize it from there.IMHO The parts add up quickly and there will be a pile of labour that is unneeded.
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:45 AM
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Great advice. Thanks Brickie. Which valve cover do you recommend removing first? Can the entire system be pressurized from that point?
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:49 AM
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Drivers side is easier,and yes that gets the whole system. When it gets pressurized it is normal to have a small leak at the pump if it gushes out of the pump that is the leak area
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:51 AM
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The leak at the pump... is that through the IPR? It won't be energized while we pressurize the system.
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:08 AM
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The leak (very small) is the pump its self and yes you have to close the IPR to test the system.If you have a parts store near by take the ICP sensor and get a male quick coupler to go in the icp port, that will be the fastest way to pressurize the system.
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:23 AM
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The leak (very small) is the pump its self and yes you have to close the IPR to test the system.If you have a parts store near by take the ICP sensor and get a male quick coupler to go in the icp port, that will be the fastest way to pressurize the system.
My icp sensor is under the turbo. To make room to get shop air connected through that port, the turbo, pedestal, and maybe even the intake may have to come out. That's why I had hoped pressurizing the system somehow through the oil rail under the valve cover would suffice.

So... oil rail, or icp port?
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:23 AM
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