Truck was running, charging old battery ahead of cold high winds.
Came back after 10 minutes, truck had died. Would not re-start.
Switched from Front tank (F Gauge doesn't work, Rear Sorta works.) Won't start Not kicking over.
Try Ether, still no start. Switch back to front Tank, no start. Not hearing Fuel Pump Relay At Key to Run position. Switch Tank back to Front, add 2 gallons of gas, no start. Not Smelling gas, just unburned ether.
Replaced Old Battery with New.

1. Checked Distributor Cap No spark at Coil wire. Check Coil, Spark @ coil. So, hoping a coil wire fixes...

1. Jumper Worked, Heard Energized Fuel Pump Relay. So...

Checked Treads on here. Tried (See Below)
94 f-250 5.8l fuel pump not coming on.

@rla2005 12-28-2017, 03:57 PM
The fuel pump is energized for only 1-2 seconds when cycling the key from Off to Run. The voltage you measured is an open circuit. Some will say the voltage is from the fuel pump monitor in the computer.



Jumper Pins 2 & 6 on the data link connector, the one where you plug a code reader in. Then when you cycle the key from Off to Run the fuel pump relay will stay energized.


A photo from Subford:

 

I assume when you say spark at the coil, you are saying juice to the coil through one of the small wires that hook onto the coil when the ignition switch is turned on? If so make sure that the rotor in the distributor is turning when cranking the engine. Then suspect the ignition module, the coil, or hardest to replace and last the PIP sensor inside the distributor.

 

If it's not starting on ether, then it's not a fuel problem, it's a spark problem.
​​​​​​
Your computer may be failing.
Few things to check...
1) check engine light:
Does your check engine light turn on when you initially turn the key to "run"?
Does the check engine light turn off when you're cranking the engine?
Does it turn back on when you stop cranking?
If you answer no to any of these questions, that's a sign of a bad computer.
2) Pull engine trouble codes:
You'll need a paper clip. Here's how. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...aper-clip.html
If the computer doesn't start blinking the check engine light with the paperclip plugged in, that's a sign of a bad computer.

 

No to ALL. No Check Engine Light, at all. Brake & ABS both come On and go off When cranking...
When trying the jumper there is still no Check Engine light. Not able to retrieve codes. (Fairly certain the Check Engine light was working before this)
Could it be a relay? $20. vs $300. Instead of computer?

 

Since the jumper on Pins 2 & 6 enabled the fuel pump relay that means the PCM relay is getting power which in turn supplies power to the Line side of the fuel pump relay. Looking more and more like a computer has gone bad since the CEL does not turn on and you cannot run any KOEO tests. To save yourself a wallet biopsy for no reason, verify you are getting power to the PCM (Pins 37 and 57).

 

Lol'd at this

 

I would suspect the processor myself but would test a few things before pulling it out and inspecting the caps
Pull the cluster and inspect the check engine lamp bulb
Test the processor output ground signal to the injectors with a noid light
Try to start it after disconnecting the spout wire to take the processor out of the ignition timing equation
I wrote those down in the wrong order, do the spout removal start test first

 

37-Diode full power
57- Power Relay Power



94 F250XLT 5.8L Fuse Box

 

37- PCM Power Diode Powered
57- PCM Relay Powered
Both were Reversed Polarity on OLD Analog Meter

 

If you have power on those pins and given the listed symptoms, I would say you most likely have failed computer.

 

Thanks.Going to need to remove it.
If I can't identify a problem Is Parts Store able to Check it?
I need to get a coil wire still to, I guess.
Thanks again