Got my Lift kit in and have a Question
#1
Got my Lift kit in and have a Question
I got a Skyjacker 4" likt kit with rear springs. I decided right now that I wasnt going to do a shackle flip. So here is a possible flaw in my thinking.
The springs came with a 4 degree shim built into the spring, the factory blocks are also 4 degrees, is 8 degrees going to be to much?
One sure way to find out in to put them on, but I was hoping to figure it out before that incase I needed to return them for a differt setup.
Thanks
The springs came with a 4 degree shim built into the spring, the factory blocks are also 4 degrees, is 8 degrees going to be to much?
One sure way to find out in to put them on, but I was hoping to figure it out before that incase I needed to return them for a differt setup.
Thanks
#2
yes, unless you have a double cardan joint you want the pinion parallel to the t-case output...same angle at each end so the harmonics cancel each other out....if you have a double cardan you want the pinion angle to be zero
you can always find zero degrees blocks in the junkyard, turn your around backwards and or remove the shims from the springs....but the only way to figure it out is trial and error
you can always find zero degrees blocks in the junkyard, turn your around backwards and or remove the shims from the springs....but the only way to figure it out is trial and error
#3
was this kit designed as an "all spring" type lift?
If yes, then it was designed to eliminate the factory rear block, and you have the answer to your question.
With such a small amount of lift, i highly doubt that you will require an additional shim to compensate for pinion angle, but the removal of the tappered shim is easy to do.
If you are carefull, you can even remove the center bolt that retains it, and re-use it. I say carefull because it is a fine thread bolt, and can be ruined if the leafs are allowed to move, causing a slight mis alignment of the center holes.
Good "c" clamps are key here.
Either way, this should be pretty easy to figure out. If your leafs came with new u-bolts, and the u-bolts are short, and willnot fit around a factory block, then it might be safe to assume that your system was designed to eliminate the block.
I know this sounds like a far fetched idea here, but what do the installation instructions tell you to do?
If yes, then it was designed to eliminate the factory rear block, and you have the answer to your question.
With such a small amount of lift, i highly doubt that you will require an additional shim to compensate for pinion angle, but the removal of the tappered shim is easy to do.
If you are carefull, you can even remove the center bolt that retains it, and re-use it. I say carefull because it is a fine thread bolt, and can be ruined if the leafs are allowed to move, causing a slight mis alignment of the center holes.
Good "c" clamps are key here.
Either way, this should be pretty easy to figure out. If your leafs came with new u-bolts, and the u-bolts are short, and willnot fit around a factory block, then it might be safe to assume that your system was designed to eliminate the block.
I know this sounds like a far fetched idea here, but what do the installation instructions tell you to do?
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#8
#9
Well if his truck is a long box like mine he should be concerned. After my flip if I really "get on it" off of the line on pavement I can feel vibration. I'll need to get some degreed shims under the springs to correct it. It shouldn't take much angle to get things right.
#10
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