I have a 1983 Full Size Ford Bronco with a 351W motor in it. I spun a rod bearing and have purchased a used engine for $400. I am going to pull out the old motor and rebuild it with high performance parts. I have never rebuilt an engine before and in my research have found many help pages for Mustang rebuilds. I don't need this kind of performance for my Bronco and need some help and or advice on how I should tackle this task. I know this is a loaded question and requires much time in response, but perhaps there is someone out there who had rebuilt a motor themselves who can help with a lamens walk-through.

WHAT I WANT IN THE END: A quality rebuild with high torque and performance for a 4X4 application. I have looked into Edelbrock parts but have been very confused with the different and very varied sizes and parts for the interior of the engine (i.e. rods, bores, etc.)

Thank you for your time with this and I appreciate anything that can help, from where to get parts to steps needed to complete this task.

Sincerely,

Brent Smith
Silver Beast

 

The limiting factor in getting more hp and torque out of a 351w is the heads. The don't breath very well. You don't have to have Trick Flow flow numbers but the stockers are really pathetic. The GT-40Ps are starting to make a big splash in the relatively low buck performance scene. If you can get your engine to breath probably the best bang for the buck would be to buy a stroker crank and get 393 inches out of your .030 over 351. If done at the time of the rebuild this mod will only set you back an extra $300-$400 and you get an extra 36 cubic inches the way it counts most in a torque engine: longer stroke. Does this whet your appetite? I am salivating on the keyboard right now. :P
DannyP

 

Brent,

The mistake most often made by someone rebuilding their first engine is not knowing that you need to gear the cam to the RPM range you will be running most often. Many put in a 'big' cam thinking that the more power the better only to be disappointed because their normal RPM range is well below the cam's intended design and preforms worse in their normal rage than a stock engine would.

Look at your normal RPM range and pick your cam accordingly, for most truck engines this will be in the 260 to 272degree range. If you have a high sped rear end, stay in the lower degree cams, if low sped go with something higher.

If your not going with new heads, do some port matching to your intake and exhuast ports. This will give you a major improvement over stock, if done right thay will outflow Edelbrock's Preformer heads.

RCC

 

Thank you very much for that great advice guys! I think because I want to do this right, I am going to pop a 351W EFI in there that I will get for $300 and rebuild the original engine over several months. This way I can research it and make sure it is done right. Please keep leaving feedback though I consider it expert advice!

Brent Smith

 

>If your not going with new heads, do some port matching to
>your intake and exhuast ports. This will give you a major
>improvement over stock, if done right thay will outflow
>Edelbrock's Preformer heads.

There are a few Ford heads that if ported with bigger valves installed will flow as well as a out-of-the-box pair of Edelbrocks, but keep in mind the stock heads are maxed out at this point and the Edlebrocks still have plenty of room for porting work.

Check out http://home.isoa.net/~mharrisj/fordhead.html
And: http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Ford
for comparisons of various heads flow ratings.

Gasket matching and a general cleanup of casting ridges, smog bumps and such will definately help flow but just don't hold out hopes for a miracle.
DannyP