Truck has never been in a wreck. I bought it new and they've always been like this. The first pic is a tad worse than what it was before I started messin' with it.

It needs to go in more (obviously) but the striker cannot be adjusted. iIf I adjust it at the hinges so that the rear is flush, then the front or top stick out too far. I've seen a number of 05-06 Super Duty/Excursion trucks with misaligned doors like mine.

How can I adjust these doors to fit better? Has anyone ever had this problem and fixed it on their own?

BACK EDGE OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR


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FRONT PASSENGER DOOR



Observant folks may notice I removed the trim from the left side. I'm debating on whether to replace it or remove the other side...

 

There is very little play in the latch area, the striker sounds like you have maxed out, but you might get a tiny bit more from moving the latch. The latches are bolted through the door, so if you can't get it close enough for you, you might try opening up the holes to allow for more adjustment.

Also look at the rubber seals around the door. You might need to tweak the doors a bit.

 

My driver door looks like yours...bump.

 

Mines the same, I have stopped worrying about it. I bet it all lines up good pulling the trailer, loaded with firewood, pulling 8% grade at 28 lbs boost. :-)

I'm not a body man and I suspect I would only end up throwing tools long distances.

 

Very interesting, I have noticed the same thing on other trucks.

 

all my doors look the same too. was gonna try to adjust them tomorrow at work. i let you know how it turns out.

 

My passanger side door is the same. let me know how to fix it

 

It really is a striker/latch issue I think. Neither of which is adjustable.

I may try to open up the mounting holes in the door for the latch to see if i can move it 1/4" more into the door. The only problem is the cutout on the door is currently flush with the latching mechanism (you gotta look at it to see what I'm talking about). I may be able to move the mounting point of the latching mechanism but may not clear the cutout on the door. I'm not about to start cutting and trimming the metal. ...talk about throwing tools long distances!

The seals are fine and usually the problem with the seals is that they collapse too easily. That wouldn't cause the door to stick out but rather rattle on bumps. A common fix for that is to run solid tubing material into the weatherstripping to stiffen it up and prevent it from collapsing so easily.

I'm not sure if it is refreshing that many folks have the same problem or not! On one hand, it's good to know that I'm not crazy or that my truck wasn't built by the guy who was getting fired that afternoon and on the other, it's a shame Ford can't line up a set of freaking doors after 100+ years in business. And on their most profitable, popular product at that!

 

The strikers ARE adjustable. They use a sticky material on the bolt plate on the inside of the door to keep it from falling off inside the door. To get it to move, you will have to strike it with a hammer. I use a dead blow brass faced hammer to do so and may have to hit it pretty firmly to move. If the entire rear edge of the door is out, but it seals ok, you may make it pop when it opens and harder to close. Trying to move the latch is pointless because the bolts are counter sunk to center the latch .

Also, my doors are the same way, but they are uneven, the bottom sticks out a little bit more than the middle. They are large doors though.

 

Okay... The vocabulary is getting me confused. .

The striker as you describe it is the door or on the B pillar?

The striker to me is the thing on the B pillar. I cannot adjust it as the bolts are counter sunk. But there IS a plate in the pillar.

The latch mechanism in the door didn't appear to have counter sunk bolts but I will check again in the AM.

Thanks!

 

The striker is counter sunk, but the bolt plate that it attaches too moves. The pillar is not threaded, there is another piece in the inside. I took it as you already moved that.

 

Don't feel bad. On my 2008 F-350 the passenger door is misaligned with the front fender. The fender sticks out like 1/4-3/8 of an inch more than the door. Then the tops of my rear doors (crew cab) also line up poorly with the cab. Just the other day I had to loosen the bed and square it properly with the cab. I've looked at many superdutys in various parking lots and some have a nice fit and finish while others look real shoddy. It's a shame Ford can't produce a consistently aligned vehicle in 2008.

 

some pics of the latch/striker would probably help us out

 

I also have this problem with the drivers door. The bottom right side sticks out ever so slightly but is barely noticable when shut. Also doesn't shut quite as easy as passenger side with which i have no problem. I am still under warranty and was going to bring it up but was affraid they would compound the problem.

Dave

 

I usually deal with this problem by twisting the door. roll down the window, hold the top of the door out and pull the bottom in. Might take two guys to do this. Or you can set the bottom of the back door out just slightly. Theres adustment on the hinges. Or set the front door in just a little bit on the lower hinges, adjustment there as well. Messing with the striker isnt going to fix this problem.