Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

7.3 Cavitation Pin Holes

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  #16  
Old 03-03-2013, 12:02 PM
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On a 7.3, they usually go for about 150k miles.
 
  #17  
Old 03-03-2013, 12:25 PM
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I sleeved the back two holes on my 7.3, got 8,000 on it with no problems, anthor guy I know has been running one with all eight sleeved for years. We both use your trucks for heavy hualing. if your machine shop knows what its doing you wont have problems.
 
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:51 PM
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I have a 91 7.3 under 100,000 idi with a little bit of pits in cyl. wall about half way down cyl. can this just be poor factory casting, or cavitation or from burning a little water as the head gaskets are out?
 
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:53 PM
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And if in worst case, rather than boring what is a estimated cost per hole to sleeve would you say?
 
  #20  
Old 03-03-2013, 09:59 PM
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sounds to me like the engine sat for some time in the past and you have some pitting from a cylinder that sat still. You cant see cavitaion damage from looking down the cylinder. you seem to be convinced that your engine is a grenade ready to go off... Unless you know for sure that the PO neglected the coolant SCA's your block is fine. The cavitation problem was on the left bank valley side of the block about 2 inches down the bore. cavitation can happen in any cylinder but the trend was for it to happen in 2 or 4 Each side of the block's cooling is seperate from the other side. you can check for pin holes with a bare block with some work making block off plates for the coolant holes on the front of the block and some rubber for a temporary head gasket use the hole in the side of the block to introduce water pressure. If water comes out pin holes you have cavitaion. If you don't want to go through this much work to check your block? you need to buy another block you feel better about.
 
  #21  
Old 03-04-2013, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming
you can go to autozone and rent a radiator pressure tester. go ahead and put the pressure to 13psi and watch it leak down. try to crank the engine over once the pressure has dropped. if your engine wont spin, like its locked up then you have cavitation issues, if it spins and you get more water in your oil then its your oil cooler.
I'm having the same issue with water in my oil. Going to get a pressure tester for the radiator tomorrow. What I don't understand is why I'm getting this same water oil mix in my valley pan. When the truck runs, and warms the valley pan fills up and eventually starts running down the back of the motor. I can't seem to tell where it's coming from. Is it possible that the oil return for the turbo is clogged and backing up into the pan?

My radiator level has remained pretty consistent, but I guess it doesn't take much water to contaminate the oil. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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