How do you remove the metal clutch rod with out removing the master cylinder ? If that's possible?

I purchased the ebay fix part and used a cut off tool to cut it, but I think I may have cut off too much. I put everything together and I can't get enough clutch to engage/disengage the gears. I removed the saftey switch (won't let it start in gear) to get more play but, that didn't work either. Also the bushing that connects the clutch, brake and gas pedal looks worn where it connects to the clutch. Is there a replacement part for that bushing ?

Thanks in advance..

 

How do you remove the metal clutch rod with out removing the master cylinder ? If that's possible? I purchased the ebay fix part and used a cut off tool to cut it, but I think I may have cut off too much. I put everything together and I can't get enough clutch to engage/disengage the gears. I removed the saftey switch (won't let it start in gear) to get more play but, that didn't work either. Also the bushing that connects the clutch, brake and gas pedal looks worn where it connects to the clutch. Is there a replacement part for that bushing ?

Thanks in advance..

 

You just have the cut the eye off of the rod, nothing more. It sounds as though you did cut too much off. I used a cutoff tool as well, but I was very careful to only cut as much as needed to slip the Ebay joint onto the rod.

Don't know the removal process for the rod, but someone else may. I was too afraid of breaking something to do it.

 

On my truck there is a metal tab with a slot that goes over a peg. This connects the piece with the saftey switch (and that the rod runs through) to the master cylinder. I found this out after taking the master cylinder loose. The tab is on top and the slot is larger at one end, so you slide it forward and lift the tab off. Then you can easily take the rod out. Of course, this is hard to do under the dash, but I was able to assemble it and take it off after I bolted the master cylinder back to the firewall. You may want to unbolt the master cylinder so you can tilt the rod down in the truck and see everything. I did not take the lines off of the master cylinder to do this.

It does sound like you will need a new rod though. When I cut mine off, I intentionally left it long so I would not cut too much off. In fact, I left some of the square piece and rounded it with the grinder so it would fit in the Ebay part. I wish I had taken pictures.

If you run a search on the threads, I think someone mentioned that you want about an inch of movement before the cylinder begins to engage, but don't hold me to that.