mystery 429
#1
mystery 429
A buddy of mine tells me he has a 429 and hands me the following #`s. The number on the intake manifold is: 3DOVE 9425 BF42B9, the block: D1VE-A2B, the head 2VE-AA, the tag number: 429 72"2-T6K811-U. It has 7 bolt valve covers so I think it is definatly a 429 but I can`t find these #`s in any books I have and have no idea as to horsepower for this engine. Can someone please help or steer me in the right direction to figure the above out!!
#2
Sounds like a 1972 429. Could even be a standard 460 engine. the heads are nothing special, as they are an open chamber design, made only in 1972. See the discussion on these heads here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...a2a-heads.html
It is a 2 bolt main block. Horsepower was dismal in 1972, 212 hp and 8.5:1 compression (just to note, the specs in '72 were changed to net horsepower as opposed to flywheel (brake) horsepower, so the power drop wasn't as drastic as it looks on paper)
It is a 2 bolt main block. Horsepower was dismal in 1972, 212 hp and 8.5:1 compression (just to note, the specs in '72 were changed to net horsepower as opposed to flywheel (brake) horsepower, so the power drop wasn't as drastic as it looks on paper)
#4
The sky's the limit on the Ford 385 series! For solid street performance, you could build to 1971 factory Ford specs... The 460 was rated at somewhere around 365 hp, and 500 lb-ft of torque.. STOCK! They are strong and will hold together. The more power you want, the more closely you will want to watch how you build it, like any other engine. You can get a few different types of head, ranging from older Ford iron heads like D0VE C (and C8VE, C9VE)which are great, up to Blue Thunder, Super Cobra Jet aluminum heads, etc.
The aftermarket is there for you, my friend, and looking better everyday! The engine is not worthless because it is not a CJ. Unless of course you are building a numbers matching show car.
The aftermarket is there for you, my friend, and looking better everyday! The engine is not worthless because it is not a CJ. Unless of course you are building a numbers matching show car.
#5
Hi trinogt, if it`s not unrealistic to ask for 380-400 hp out of this engine. how in depth would the modifications be? Of coarse the decks will be planed,holes bored to .60 over, mains line bored. How far under dare a guy go with the crank? Can this be done without winding up with a high compression engine cammed so baddly it don`t want to idle or run on pump gas?
#6
That is definitely not an unrealistic build. In fact, a Ford 400 was built for under $2000 that dyno'd 380 hp and 468 lb-ft of torque. (see http://www.fordmuscle.com/members/ar...M/index3.shtml)
Oh, and it runs on pump gas!
You will want to make sure you assemble with quality fasteners, so go for ARP, like in your main studs. You only need to turn the crank a minimum amount if it is in good shape. There are .010 undersize bearings that will take care of your bottom end. Are you concerned it must be turned more?
If you find a pair of D0VE C heads (or C8VE), you can get around a 9.3:1 compression ratio with the stock pistons. Don't overcam, and don't overcarb. A 750 cfm should easily get you to 5500 rpm, and you will want to build for torque.
There are a lot of 385 series experts that can fine tune a formula for you to get the power you want, but it won't take you much. You don't even need a large overbore or deck job to get 400 hp. You shouldn't even need to spend much time, if any at all, on the ports of the heads, unless you really want to work the bowls and get rid of 'the hump' that was cast into the head.
Get yourself to http://www.network54.com/Forum/85220/ and tell them what you want to acheive, and be prepared, as these guys are seasoned builders who mess around a lot with these engines!
Good luck.
Oh, and it runs on pump gas!
You will want to make sure you assemble with quality fasteners, so go for ARP, like in your main studs. You only need to turn the crank a minimum amount if it is in good shape. There are .010 undersize bearings that will take care of your bottom end. Are you concerned it must be turned more?
If you find a pair of D0VE C heads (or C8VE), you can get around a 9.3:1 compression ratio with the stock pistons. Don't overcam, and don't overcarb. A 750 cfm should easily get you to 5500 rpm, and you will want to build for torque.
There are a lot of 385 series experts that can fine tune a formula for you to get the power you want, but it won't take you much. You don't even need a large overbore or deck job to get 400 hp. You shouldn't even need to spend much time, if any at all, on the ports of the heads, unless you really want to work the bowls and get rid of 'the hump' that was cast into the head.
Get yourself to http://www.network54.com/Forum/85220/ and tell them what you want to acheive, and be prepared, as these guys are seasoned builders who mess around a lot with these engines!
Good luck.
#7
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#9
overbore
Hi Bear 45/70, not gointo bore .60 if it`s not needed. I suspect this block is quite high miles and may need that much to clean it up. In my experience with sb Chev`s you had to be careful at .60 over as it signifcantly weakened the casting to the water jacket. Are Ford bb`s the same ? I understood they were a much stonger and heavier casting. Please let me hear your thoughts as to what cam ect. you would use for the afor mentioned build.
#11
You can do .060 over bore if you get the block sonic checked for wall integrity.
D0VE C and C8VE heads aren't much different from one another. The only thing that might be different is that there isn't a good likelihood of finding any Thermactor air humps on the C8VE's when you go to port them.
D0VE C and C8VE heads aren't much different from one another. The only thing that might be different is that there isn't a good likelihood of finding any Thermactor air humps on the C8VE's when you go to port them.
#13
I sold mine for $200.00 each back in 1997.
They were complete but needed rebuilding.
Funny thing is. they came from Surrey in 1990 on an engine I got royally screwed on.
No more buying unseen things from BC for me ;(
Have a look at this page near the bottom.
http://www.fordclassics.com/enginespecs.html
They were complete but needed rebuilding.
Funny thing is. they came from Surrey in 1990 on an engine I got royally screwed on.
No more buying unseen things from BC for me ;(
Have a look at this page near the bottom.
http://www.fordclassics.com/enginespecs.html
#14
Sorry to hear of your bum luck with that engine! Do you know if there is an after market equivelent or an aluminium version and where to aquire them? My bud seems to think he wants it stroked,but I keep telling that for 400 hp thats not needed, I see that as much as peeing into wind and a waste of bucks! Looking forward to your answer. ( by the way all us B.C. canuck`s aren`t cast from the same die!)
#15
you could just as well do a stroker kit. its really not much more than a proper lower end rebuild. you can put together a nice 521 stroker kit for a little over a grand, or go a cheap one from ebay for around 850. youll definitely want to change those d2ve heads out because theyre very detonation prone. you can get nice d3ve's ported and oversized valves installed for about 900 dollars from www.reincarnation-automotive.com, or pick up some ported and assembled procomp aluminums from the same place for i think about 1300. procomps are basically the same as the stock passenger car heads, only made from aluminum.