Brought in for No Start warm (thought it was HPOP).
DTC codes- 2295
Replaced ICP, said pick it up...then said...wait, your right, its HPOP.
1 week later, HPOP replaced, come pick it up...wait...
Bad O Rings (H Pressure)...ordered kit..
a few days went by...come get it......wait...it wont start.....
PARTS REPLACED- ICP, IPR, H/P PUMP, HP O RINGS.
Hotline assist for Tech-
Q- What is ICP press and voltage?
A-.25
Q-What is fuel press?
A-48
Q-If vehilce is equipped w/ an IPR, what is the IPR ddoing during the concern?
A-14%
Tech Q- After repalcing O ring found no oil prssure after long cranking, is there a reason, or could there be a reason the HP not recving oil which may be the no start in the first place?

Hotline recommends-
Pull the oil filter, hold down the oil filter drain and crank engine, if no flow is found check oil pressure regulator for sticking, pull out clean and install.

Tech has not shown up for work in 3 days...no one knows where he is......I think he gave up on this beast....does anyone have any IDEAS?
3 Weeks later, dealer has no clue, FSE is calling in but playing phone tag...

Additional info-

Call log to hotline-
8/3/07 tech said:
Tech has repalced dummy plug and stand pipe o-rings to fix a crank no start when hot. Vehicle is now a no start. Tech has replaced HPP, ICP, IPR, Stand pipes and o-rings. Tech looking for next step.

8/3/07 hotline says- Perform full block off test and full field IPR. ICP should read 3000 PSI within 2 turns of engine, Please call back.

8/3/07 tech said- The vehicle came in with crank no start on a hot soak. It would not build enough ICP pressure. The is base oil flow to the filter housing. The HP Pump and IPR were replaced. The vehicle is now a crank no start with no ICP pressure. The stand pipes were pulled to inspect o-rings and it doesnt look like oil is getting to the stand pipes and HP rails. There is also no sync and ficm sync now when cranking.

8/3/07- hotline says-
Full field IPR. Use the block off tools dead head the high pressure pump. Check if any pressure is building. The synco and FICL sync concern did not occur until the engine harness was disturbed for the low ICP pressure concern. Possible Wiring concern, referred to Field Service Engineer in your area.......

 

I can't address the specific problem but I think you should find a new dealer tech right away.

 

I have an 03 6.0 that also had this problem. Replaced the HPOP, IPR, ICP, and FICM, still no start. After 4 weeks they finally pulled the valve covers and high pressure oil rails. The problem was that the o-ring in top of the #4 injector had blown out, and not allowed the HPOP to build pressure.

 

If the blockoff tools are used, they eliminate the possibility of a bad injector o-ring. Sounds like tech isnt doing proper diagnostics and just throwing parts at it.

 

this shouldnt be that hard, 6.0's are a pain to fix, not diagnose, you dont rip the motor apart to inspect o-rings, the idiots have no idea what they are doing. if you hook up WDS and pull up ICP, IPR duty cycle, FICM SYNC and FICM PWR, and RPM, you dont need much more, since you already stated there is no icp pressure the first thing is check for base engine oil pressure, i have had the valve stick in the front of the timing cover before, easy to check, just pull the plug(i think its a t-50) and the regulator should slide out, if not then you need a new cover. if you have base engine oil pressure then you need to perform a hpop leak test, remove the icp, install an adapter to hook your shop air to, command ipr to 100% and apply full shop pressure, if you have no icp at all then you WILL hear the air leak within 3-5 seconds of install of air. pinpoint using your ears, i have had a bunch of the "T" fittings on the back of the hpop crack and blow pressure off, most people over look this, i've seen the injector tops get cracked from installing the rail wrong, but any hp oil problem can be found using the ipr and air. the ficm problem is probably a busted wire under the ficm, they rub the worse there but also across the intake runners and around the fuel filter housing and egr valve.
at this point you are stuck with your dealer, if you push the issue the fse will have it towed to another dealer but the new dealer will want nothing to do with it as it will run his numbers up and he will be picking up a pissed off customer
it sounds to me like the tech is a butcher and needs to have the fse come out, where are you located? i may know your fse

 

Thanks Guys! I am located in Santa Cruz CA and supposedly the FSE is in Pleasanton CA....

 

If you take your truck in for a problem...and they don't fix the original problem, they just keep finding more problems, I recommend you find a different shop.

If the dealership only has a single tech...and they can't get the tech to show up for work...that's a sign! Again, I recommend you find a different shop.

Good Luck

Joe

 

Easy fix...remove and replace the 6.0. That's the ultimate in throwing parts at the problem!!! oh yeah, it'll make the customer REALLY happy!!

 

Man from all these 6.0 problems I'm nervous..Sounds like the same thing...hpop, turbo, injectors, o-rings.....problem is you have to rip the motor 1/2 apart to do it and every part costs 600 bucks.

My new purchase that has 122k already cost me 2400 sounds like that is just a start....

anyone know if you can just swap the 6.0 for a 7.3...should have just got the 7.3.....

I copied all the diagnostic info for when mine goes caput....I have been documenting all the things that go wrong on here and how to fix them so the next time it leaves me stranded on the highway..maybe I can help the shop figure it out.

I anticipate problems...=

 

why anticate problems? how can you feel sure driving anything with that attitude? Stuff will break down, nothing you can do about it, but there are a whole lot more trucks that never break down then there are ones that break down and never get fixed

 

102,200 trouble-free miles.

Have all 8 original C94 injectors, turbo, EGR, and everything else... just depends....

I use fuel additive in every tank/fill-up.

I change oil and use OEM/Racor oil filters - every 5,000 miles.

I use Racor/Int'l/MC fuel filters and change every 15,000 miles.

I change the stock air-filter every 40,000 miles (regardless of the filter-minder).

I change/flush the tranny every 30,000 miles and change the external filter.

I change my diff's and transfer case every 60,000 miles.

I flush my cooling system with distilled water and refill with Premium Gold collant (only) every 51,000 miles - not 100,000 like the manual states (just did it today).


Maybe Ford/Int'l built a good motor, maybe I am lucky and maybe it's due to taking care of my baby... but every oil analysis report has come back just perfect and I have no complaints after 102,200 miles (as of this week)!

I also have gotten to know my dealer and 6.0L certified tech and I ask a lot of questions from what I have learned here and at other sites. It is my truck

 

BBC has has a point....your truck is only going to be as good as the maintenance you put into it.

Joe

 

Beachbum where do I get that OIL???
I had a 2001 7.3 that i drove like NASCAR fo 6 years, I think I took it in once for 60k service, and I got rid of it?????
Showed up to the dealer with all the forum comments in hand this AM...
COONHUNTER JOE IS THE PSD GOD...........Suddenly the MASTER GURU was on it, FSE had called (probably asked for another tech!) and they found a cracked Injector...
"i've seen the injector tops get cracked from installing the rail wrong-(coonhunter)...
All of a sudden the planets aligned...they said should be done tomm
THIS FORUM IS BETTER THAN ANY DEALER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thats why we keep comming back.

 

What oil are your asking about...I did not mention any brands or types???