Here are the instructions from ARP courteousy of John Mummert. You may find some of the info interesting:

Head stud and head bolt kits are used to improve clamping of the head to th block, improving the clamping force reduces the incidence of blown head gaskets.
Early Y's were assembled with average quality head bolts. These were upgraded late in production to Grade 8 fasteners (?????). This reduced the number of blown head gaskets but there is still room for improvement.
Our head bolt and stud kit utilize ARP fasteners which are a vast improvement over production Y fasteners. These are 8740 alloy with 190,000 psi tensile strength.
Either kit is a direct replacement with no mods necessary.
Early Y-blocks required longer bolts at the ends of the upper row of bolts due to the recessed threads at the block dowels. On 1960 and later heads the 5 upper head bolts are all the same length (I did not know that!).

Chase threads in block
During install internal bevel of washer goes toward bolt head
Studs can be tightened in block then backed off 1/4 turn. Some builders prefer to torque studs in block.
Always oil all threads, nuts and washers during assembly.
ARP recommends tightening 7/16 in. bolts to 82 ft. labs. with oil or 65 ft. lbs with ARP moly lube.
Studs to 80 ft lbs with oil or 63 ft lbs with ARP moly lube.
The best results have been achieved with multiple tightening of the heads. After the head is torqued to spec loosen all fsteners and repeat the tightening sequence 3 times at least. It has been found that if only tightened once the fire ring surrounding the cylinders might not compress completely (New INformation for me).

Anybody know when the stock head bolts went to grade 8, and did the torque specs increase? What is the head bolt torque spec on a 62-64 292 for you "Slick" owners?

When bolting down the head using stock bolts and recommended torque, did Ford specify or assume that the threads were to be lubricated by the installer?

 

Mike,

I'm not an expert, but this (torquing head studs in the block) sounds like a really bad idea (unless I misunderstand what this means). Studs should not be bottomed out in their holes. And I don't think studs should be oiled or have thread locker put on their threads. I think they need to be installed dry, bottomed out and backed off slightly so that when they stretch and elongate, they don't apply pressure in the bottom of their holes. Bolts work by applying elastic tension through their length to the bolt heads. Heck, I think that they shouldn't even be torqued. I think that the nuts should be tightened until they flatten the lock washers, then turned an exact amount of rotations to get the studs to stretch a certain amount.

When I was working on a 223, I noted that Ford had used grade 4 head bolts. Grade 4. I'd never even heard of grade four bolts before. But I think that Ford must have had a certain reason for using grade 4 bolts instead of grade 5.

Different grade bolts stretch different amounts. A grade 8 bolt doesn't stretch much at all. A grade 2 bolt stretches a lot. (BTW, I mean stretch within their elastic range). And lower numbered grade bolts have a better fatigue life than higher numbered grade bolts. Grade 5 live longer than grade 8.

Threads should be 'chased' with a special thread chasing tap. You don't want to scratch the roots of the threads by using a standard tap. That causes stress risers and badly weakens the threads.

 

Paul,

this presents a big can of worms for me. First, I have planned on using stock 1964 bolts, taken from a 1964 motor. If they are Grade 8 like the information said, they wont stretch like earlier bolts, unless more torque is provided. But apparently the torque specified by Ford was not increased (do not have a shop manual for 62-64, and no one has stepped forward with the info). It seems like using a Grade 8 bolt at Grade 5 torque specs would allow the 8 to loosen.

Does "fatigue life" have to do with the time the bolt is in service, or the number of times it has been torqued in place? It sounds like the earlier bolts may have been a better deal?

Where can I buy the special thread chasing tap? I have always used a regular tap. I swear, everytime I think I know something it comes out that I dont know much at all .

One more question in my mind regards installation of bolts dry or lubricated. I have read previous discussion on the issue, and other information, and thought the best way to install was dry, and have done so on three head installations. Now it sounds like they should be prepped with a moly assembly lube?

Paul, I am interested in why you decided to use studs. What are the advantages?

Mike

 

Mike, I'm not an expert, I just try to inform myself.

I'll keep my eyes peeled for a thread chasing tap. I need some, too. Got another Y-block to assemble.

Torque specs are different for dry or lubricated. I would be willing to use motor oil on head bolts threads, but sparingly. Part of the problem with trying to torque a bolt is that as the threads start to tighten, they resist the rotation needed to screw them in and stretch them. One of the remedies is to use lubricant under the bolt head so that it doesn't compound the problem by adding its friction. That would leave the bolt in a twisted state.

Another remedy is to use a lock washer that prevents the bolt from unwinding, or a flat washer that reduces the friction between the bolt head and the part that it's clamping, preventing some of the wind-up of the bolt.

When the engine gets a chance to expand and contract, the bolt head slips back to unwind the bolt, losing tension. This it the reason for re-torquing the head bolts.

I used the ARP thread lubricant on the studs I put in a 400 Cheby.

I'll use head bolts on the average engine, but I used main studs on a tuned 400 cheby small block for my 55 Bel Aire hardtop. It's a small hassle, but it might help the crank to live a better life. When you thread a bolt onto a stud and torque or stretch it, the only friction you need to overcome with studs is all in the bolt. There's less wind-up of the stud.

The fatigue life is how much stretching it will endure. The lower numbered bolts live longer.

You might try calling the ARP help line. I hear that they are pretty friendly.

With the grade 8 bolts, I'd put flat washers under the heads and use motor oil or lubricant under the bolt heads. If you use motor oil on the bolt threads, make sure you use the right torque specs.

I just dug out an old Motor Repair Manual for trucks. It seems to span the years 52-63. I lists 'clean and lightly lubricated threads' specification for the 292 as 65-75 Ft. Lbs. I'd use the upper end of that spec - 75 Ft. Lbs, with a light coat of non-synthetic motor oil.

I note that the 223 engine has two values. The 7/16" bolt is 65-75 and the 1/2" bolt gets 95-105.

BTW, when I was working on an older 292 (EDB-A) as well as on the 223, I found sand and junk in the bottoms of some of the bolt holes. I get pretty **** about getting the block clean.

 

PC, thanks for the information.

 

I picked up my parts motor yesterday. 1964, absolutely confirmed. The head bolts were in fact grade 8. I tried to gauge the breakaway torque on 3 or 4 and it was 70-75. The top 5 bolts were not all the same length as described above in the ARP document. They were as always, two longer on the ends and shorter on the insides. So I dont know what ARP is thinking.

When I started breaking the engine down, some excitement turned to mild depression. The original steel head gaskets were in place. I was very surprised by the quality factory surfacing of deck and heads. Bore was standard. Two holes had extreme rust. But then the real bad news came home. Two or three lifters were no where to be seen. As I was working on trying to jar the distributor free I noticed there was an unfamiliar hole in the valley. Yep I
could see all the way to the rear cam journal, and there was no distributor drive gear on the cam. The cam was broken. Found the rear cam plug in the clutch dust cover, and a piece of piston skirt on the valley floor close to the distributor.

The engine had the whole PCV setup intact, so that was interesting to a Y nut. I had never seen a stock PCV setup before, though knew they were put in the later trucks.

The motor is a bust. But the few parts needed are intact. Best part of it all is it came complete with attached flywheel, clutch and 3 speed all synchro tranny. The tranny looks great.

 

Mike,

Sorry to hear about the blown block. But it sounds like you have some parts to use on the next y-block; rods, damper, oil pan, pickup, front cover, clutch pack.

I was cruising craigslist for Boise and saw an ad by someone in Oregon selling a 312. It was buried in a listing of other engines. It was on the river, IIRC, but might be worth a drive. Should be straight north of you.

Paul

Ford Engine Parts Lot, lots and lots of old ford parts! - $1
Reply to: sale-367946077@craigslist.org
Date: 2007-07-06, 2:16PM MDT


Lots and Lots of ford parts for sale, heres a list of most of what we have! email me with any questions thanks!


Intake Manifolds
Ford 289-302 C8AE 2bbl - $25 obo
Ford 289-302 C5AE 2bbl - $75 obo
Ford 289-302 C8AE 2bbl - $25 obo
Ford 289-302 D3OE 2bbl - $25 obo
Ford 289-302 C8OE 2bbl - $25 obo
Ford 289-302 D1OE 2bbl - $25 obo
Ford 289-302 C8AE 2bbl - $25 obo
Ford 351m-400 D5AE 2bbl - $50 obo
Ford 351W C9OE 2bbl - $50 obo
Ford 351W D1AE 2bbl - $50 obo


Blocks
Ford FE 390 - $150
Ford 302 - $150
Ford 260-289 - $250
Ford 390 - $150


Ford Bell Housings
Engine/ Casting Number
289/ C5DA-6394-A - $
289/ C5DA-6394-A - $
289/ C5AA-6394-B - $
289/ C5AA-6394-B - $
302/ C3CP-7978-A (automatic) - $
302/ E37A-7505-CC - $
302/ E37A-7505-AC - $
302/ E37R-6394-AA - $
351M/ D3AP-7976-AA - $
390/ C5AP-7976-A - $
390/ C5TA-7505-B - $
390/ C8TA- 7075-B - $


Timing Chain Covers
Engine/ Casting Number
289/ C8AE-6059-A7A - $
289/ C5OE-6059-A1 - $
302/ D7AE-6059-AA - $
390/ C3AE-6059-A - $
390/ D2TE-6059-AA - $
390/ C8AE-6059-B - $
460/ D2VE-6059-AA - $


Pistons and Rods
Part # Quantity Price
C1AE-B 8 Offer
C7TE-A 8 Offer
C8OE- 8 Offer
C3AE- 8 Offer



Crank Shafts
Ford 302 2M - $50 obo
Ford 289 1M - $50 obo
Ford 390 3U - $100 obo
Ford 429 4U - $150 obo
Ford 429 4U - $150 obo
Ford 390-406 - $100 obo
Ford 390 2U - $100 obo
Ford Model T - $100 obo


Engines
Ford 1.8 4cyl - $100 obo
Ford 2.0 4cyl - $100 obo
Ford 2.3 4cyl - $150 obo
Ford 312 V8 - $250 obo
Ford 390 C6ME block! V8 - $650 obo


Cylinder Heads
1 set of 2300 cc
2 sets of 302
2 Sets of 351
1 set of 390
2 sets of 460

have lots more than whats listed here, just havnt got to listing it yet, feel free to come dig around. and be sure to search Devins Parts in your craigslist search for more old and rare auto parts! thanks.




* Location: The Dalles
* it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests


PostingID: 367946077

 

Don't forget if you're going to go look at a 312, make sure to know or take the id information with you so you are sure of what you are getting if you care about what the block and rotating assembly are. If it's got a set of G heads, 4-bbl B intake and rams horns; who cares what the block is

 

No looking or buying will take place on this end for a while. I am all tapped out ,