Tie Rods & Castle Nuts
#1
Tie Rods & Castle Nuts
I changed all of my tie rods this weekend . and when I went to torque them down to 67 ft. lbs. as per specifications. I found out that the castle nuts went on to far for the cotter keys to even touch the nut let alone go inside the slots. It is like the studs were to long. So when I compared old ones with the new ones they were almost a 1/2" longer. this was on the outter ( both left and right ) tie rod ends. of my ( 2000 EX 4x4 7.3 ). Oriley's said they were the right parts. every thing else looked good and fit good except for the castle nuts. SO NOW WHAT DO I DO.
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Same prob on my '03 when I put Moog ball joints in place of original--the cotter keys did not intersect the slots on castle nuts.
I did not do anything other than to put the cotter keys in the hold anyway. If the nut ever comes loose (it has not now for over 15 months), then I assume cotter key will "catch" the nut.
By the way, I doubt if you could drill this small hole in the ball joint stud. Too difficult--especially now that ball joints are on the truck.
I did not do anything other than to put the cotter keys in the hold anyway. If the nut ever comes loose (it has not now for over 15 months), then I assume cotter key will "catch" the nut.
By the way, I doubt if you could drill this small hole in the ball joint stud. Too difficult--especially now that ball joints are on the truck.
#5
Go to another parts store that sells a different brand and ask to see one. Compare, contrast. Maybe return teh ones to oreilly? Id at least look at one more set, and use those if tehy matched what was on my truck. I wouldnt feel safe rilling anotehr hole or using washers that may allow the nut to back off.
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I changed all of my tie rods this weekend . and when I went to torque them down to 67 ft. lbs. as per specifications. I found out that the castle nuts went on to far for the cotter keys to even touch the nut let alone go inside the slots. It is like the studs were to long. So when I compared old ones with the new ones they were almost a 1/2" longer. this was on the outter ( both left and right ) tie rod ends. of my ( 2000 EX 4x4 7.3 ). Oriley's said they were the right parts. every thing else looked good and fit good except for the castle nuts. SO NOW WHAT DO I DO.
I verified part numbers with the dealer per my VIN. They mentioned there were a couple options of nuts to go with that assembly but initially didn't provide any details. The dealer initially suggested going with W712367 S440 for the nuts (4 locations) and W710907 S439 for some retainers (4 locations) that go on top of the nuts. Those ended up being too big for my application (for a thread size that was larger in diameter than mine). I returned those and went with the other option of W711373 S440 for the nuts (4 locations) and W711374 S439 for the retainers. This was exactly what I needed. What was on mine originally is shown on the left (with a shorter stud and a castle nut) and the new unit on the right (with a longer stud, a nut, and a retainer).
Hope this helps someone!
#10
I changed all of my tie rods this weekend . and when I went to torque them down to 67 ft. lbs. as per specifications. I found out that the castle nuts went on to far for the cotter keys to even touch the nut let alone go inside the slots. It is like the studs were to long. So when I compared old ones with the new ones they were almost a 1/2" longer. this was on the outter ( both left and right ) tie rod ends. of my ( 2000 EX 4x4 7.3 ). Oriley's said they were the right parts. every thing else looked good and fit good except for the castle nuts. SO NOW WHAT DO I DO.
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