electrodes. . .6010 vs. 6011 vs. 6013 vs. 70XX??
#1
electrodes. . .6010 vs. 6011 vs. 6013 vs. 70XX??
Yeah, well. . .um. . .
I kinda almost finished putting my new front end together with 6013 Didn't really mean to, I just got into "The Zone" and when I ran out of sticks I kinda realized I'm nearly finished
So. . .how much of this do I get to look forward to grinding out and rewelding? No all of it mind you, I'm thinking just the high stressed areas would suffice. . .this massive chunk of steel is WAY over engineered. . .
Unless the 6013 will hold up. . .I guess I should call my uncle, but since I'm here now what do yall think?
Oh, the humanity!! And a waste of a day
I kinda almost finished putting my new front end together with 6013 Didn't really mean to, I just got into "The Zone" and when I ran out of sticks I kinda realized I'm nearly finished
So. . .how much of this do I get to look forward to grinding out and rewelding? No all of it mind you, I'm thinking just the high stressed areas would suffice. . .this massive chunk of steel is WAY over engineered. . .
Unless the 6013 will hold up. . .I guess I should call my uncle, but since I'm here now what do yall think?
Oh, the humanity!! And a waste of a day
#2
I would probably use 7018s if you have a DC machine. The 6013 is a deeper burning rod but not as strong. I would consider capping things with 7018s. The numbers can be broke down to what the rod is for. The first 2 numbers tall you what the tensil strength is 60=60,000 LBS per sq. in., 70=70,000 lbs per sq. in. the other 2 numbers tell you what type of current AC, DC Rev. or DC Straight and the last number tells you what positions it is suitable for. Now I may have the last 2 numbers backwards. You can find out this info at you local welding supply place. If you decide to cap your welds be sure you clean and grind them well. No slag left. Slag=pinholes and weakness.
#3
60-series is usually used for rusty metal, or "make do" repairs. it's also called jet rod. It works ok, I have used it, but I don't like it. You can get 7018AC, works just the same as regular 7018 except it has to be run on ac. Straight 7018 is far stronger than 60 series rods, but needs the base metals to be clean, and must be kept dry or porosity from hydrogen inclusion can occur.
I would cap what you have with 7018, make sure to burn it in properly, and it should be just fine.
I would cap what you have with 7018, make sure to burn it in properly, and it should be just fine.
#4
#5
Nice!
Well, according to Lincoln Electric:
"E6013
This all-position, AC electrode is used for welding clean, new sheet metal. Its soft arc has minimal spatter, moderate penetration and an easy-to-clean slag."
Well, the piece I'm building is all new 1/4" plate and angle. . .dunno if 1/4" plate is still considered sheet metal though 1/8" electrode, 110-115 amps, 2 passes as necessary. . .most of the welds are compression loaded, only a few areas are in constant shear that I'm kinda concerned about.
"E7018
A low-hydrogen, usually DC, all-position electrode used when quality is an issue or for hard-to-weld metals. It has the capability of producing more uniform weld metal, which has better impact properties at temperatures below zero."
OK, mild A36 steel isn't hard to weld and I can say for certain I won't have to worry about any below zero temps. . .so why is a cap with E7018 preffered/better/necessary? Is there some advantage to having a composite weld? I've done some Googlin', and most people seem to prefer a 6011 root and a 70XX cap, but they never mention why. . .
I don't want to sound rude or anything, I do appreciate the help from more knowledgable members than I
Well, according to Lincoln Electric:
"E6013
This all-position, AC electrode is used for welding clean, new sheet metal. Its soft arc has minimal spatter, moderate penetration and an easy-to-clean slag."
Well, the piece I'm building is all new 1/4" plate and angle. . .dunno if 1/4" plate is still considered sheet metal though 1/8" electrode, 110-115 amps, 2 passes as necessary. . .most of the welds are compression loaded, only a few areas are in constant shear that I'm kinda concerned about.
"E7018
A low-hydrogen, usually DC, all-position electrode used when quality is an issue or for hard-to-weld metals. It has the capability of producing more uniform weld metal, which has better impact properties at temperatures below zero."
OK, mild A36 steel isn't hard to weld and I can say for certain I won't have to worry about any below zero temps. . .so why is a cap with E7018 preffered/better/necessary? Is there some advantage to having a composite weld? I've done some Googlin', and most people seem to prefer a 6011 root and a 70XX cap, but they never mention why. . .
I don't want to sound rude or anything, I do appreciate the help from more knowledgable members than I
#6
7018 has better toes since it blends better with the base metal, and overall creates a smoother bead, so there is much less area for cracks to start from. Not to mention the 10,000psi increase in strength.
As far as capping with 7018, most of the strength of a weld comes from the outer 1/3 (or so I was told in school), so the stronger cap prevails.
As far as capping with 7018, most of the strength of a weld comes from the outer 1/3 (or so I was told in school), so the stronger cap prevails.
#7
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#11
6010 is an excellent DC rod with major penetration. 6011 is a great AC and DC rod, that doesn't penetrate quite like a 6010, but will cut through rust, oil, and better than any rod I've found. What I like to do, especially if welding on something a little dirty is run a root pass with a 6011 and then come back with a 7018. The 6011 helps clean out what you're welding, and it pre-heats the metal (gets the moisture out) for the 7018 that will enable it to weld better.
#12
Here is a nice bit of reading from Miller's website:
http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/guidelines_smaw.pdf
Gives the use for each type of rod. Nice details on techniques. Good reference material.
Also, like John said. If the metal is a bit dirty,p ut a good root pass of 6010/6011. Just make sure as with any multi-pass stick weld you get all the slag cleaned off. Invest in a couple good sets of picks.
http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/guidelines_smaw.pdf
Gives the use for each type of rod. Nice details on techniques. Good reference material.
Also, like John said. If the metal is a bit dirty,p ut a good root pass of 6010/6011. Just make sure as with any multi-pass stick weld you get all the slag cleaned off. Invest in a couple good sets of picks.
Last edited by stryder; 05-20-2007 at 04:36 PM.
#13
"Invest in a couple good sets of picks."
True that! I'm going thru pipewelding school and it is amazing how much a bit of slag can weaken a weld when the test coupon goes in the bender,
One thing I found useful over the years is to add steel handles to my chisels and ***** punches.
It lets me get them into tight areas with more control, and saves hitting fingers. I use a few inches of rebar which works well. Instead of swinging the chipping hammer and hoping to hit the target, place the punch or chisel where you want it and tap that instead.
True that! I'm going thru pipewelding school and it is amazing how much a bit of slag can weaken a weld when the test coupon goes in the bender,
One thing I found useful over the years is to add steel handles to my chisels and ***** punches.
It lets me get them into tight areas with more control, and saves hitting fingers. I use a few inches of rebar which works well. Instead of swinging the chipping hammer and hoping to hit the target, place the punch or chisel where you want it and tap that instead.
#14
6013, like 6011, is more of a drag stick rod. I love LoHydrogen 7018 but it is more sensitive to the 1/16 inch (or so) hold off gap. It welds with a little different technique. Practice on some similar material so you can really nail down the welder settings and the slag will literally fall off. I think you will like the final look of 7018 and it is nuclear grade stuff.