I kinda almost finished putting my new front end together with 6013 Didn't really mean to, I just got into "The Zone" and when I ran out of sticks I kinda realized I'm nearly finished
So. . .how much of this do I get to look forward to grinding out and rewelding? No all of it mind you, I'm thinking just the high stressed areas would suffice. . .this massive chunk of steel is WAY over engineered. . .
Unless the 6013 will hold up. . .I guess I should call my uncle, but since I'm here now what do yall think?
Oh, the humanity!! And a waste of a day
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Steve
2004 F150 STX
1978 F-250 4X4
1987 F-250 4x4 VIRGINIA CHAPTER Virginia Chapter Website
I would probably use 7018s if you have a DC machine. The 6013 is a deeper burning rod but not as strong. I would consider capping things with 7018s. The numbers can be broke down to what the rod is for. The first 2 numbers tall you what the tensil strength is 60=60,000 LBS per sq. in., 70=70,000 lbs per sq. in. the other 2 numbers tell you what type of current AC, DC Rev. or DC Straight and the last number tells you what positions it is suitable for. Now I may have the last 2 numbers backwards. You can find out this info at you local welding supply place. If you decide to cap your welds be sure you clean and grind them well. No slag left. Slag=pinholes and weakness.
60-series is usually used for rusty metal, or "make do" repairs. it's also called jet rod. It works ok, I have used it, but I don't like it. You can get 7018AC, works just the same as regular 7018 except it has to be run on ac. Straight 7018 is far stronger than 60 series rods, but needs the base metals to be clean, and must be kept dry or porosity from hydrogen inclusion can occur.
I would cap what you have with 7018, make sure to burn it in properly, and it should be just fine.
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Jared
Don't attack the people you envy- Strive to become someone they would envy. FTE Guidelines
"E6013
This all-position, AC electrode is used for welding clean, new sheet metal. Its soft arc has minimal spatter, moderate penetration and an easy-to-clean slag."
Well, the piece I'm building is all new 1/4" plate and angle. . .dunno if 1/4" plate is still considered sheet metal though 1/8" electrode, 110-115 amps, 2 passes as necessary. . .most of the welds are compression loaded, only a few areas are in constant shear that I'm kinda concerned about.
"E7018
A low-hydrogen, usually DC, all-position electrode used when quality is an issue or for hard-to-weld metals. It has the capability of producing more uniform weld metal, which has better impact properties at temperatures below zero."
OK, mild A36 steel isn't hard to weld and I can say for certain I won't have to worry about any below zero temps. . .so why is a cap with E7018 preffered/better/necessary? Is there some advantage to having a composite weld? I've done some Googlin', and most people seem to prefer a 6011 root and a 70XX cap, but they never mention why. . .
I don't want to sound rude or anything, I do appreciate the help from more knowledgable members than I
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Steve
2004 F150 STX
1978 F-250 4X4
1987 F-250 4x4 VIRGINIA CHAPTER Virginia Chapter Website
7018 has better toes since it blends better with the base metal, and overall creates a smoother bead, so there is much less area for cracks to start from. Not to mention the 10,000psi increase in strength.
As far as capping with 7018, most of the strength of a weld comes from the outer 1/3 (or so I was told in school), so the stronger cap prevails.
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Jared
Don't attack the people you envy- Strive to become someone they would envy. FTE Guidelines
In the areas that you go from compression to shear there is also going to be flexing and that is what will kill your welds. The nice smooth uniformaty of the 7018 will help reduce that as will the extra strength. Not to mention it will look better.
If you have an area that is either overlapped or butt welded, you can lay another plate over it (called fishplating). You probably have seen the diamond shaped patched layed over a joint before, that is what I refer to. 7018 is a smoother easier rod to run, and has better strength.
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Bhardy & Ford six have nailed it right on the head. I'm only a weekend welder, but I follow the rules of good welding. 7018 is the way to go. Make sure the surfaces are clean and oil free. I don't know if I'd trust something structural to 6013.
6010 is an excellent DC rod with major penetration. 6011 is a great AC and DC rod, that doesn't penetrate quite like a 6010, but will cut through rust, oil, and better than any rod I've found. What I like to do, especially if welding on something a little dirty is run a root pass with a 6011 and then come back with a 7018. The 6011 helps clean out what you're welding, and it pre-heats the metal (gets the moisture out) for the 7018 that will enable it to weld better.
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John
1997 Super Duty, PSD,6637, E40D, Utility Bed, 4" exhaust, custom tuner with high idle, 50hp, & 80hp.
2002 F250 Crew Cab, 8' bed, 4X4, PSD, 6637, 4" magnaflow exhaust, custom tuner with high idle, 50, 75 tow, 100, 120, & 140 Trying to be the man my kids think I am. Unfortunately, my wife already knows better.
Gives the use for each type of rod. Nice details on techniques. Good reference material.
Also, like John said. If the metal is a bit dirty,p ut a good root pass of 6010/6011. Just make sure as with any multi-pass stick weld you get all the slag cleaned off. Invest in a couple good sets of picks.
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Stryder
---------------------------------------------------- 1990 F250 4x4 -> 302HO, T-18 4spd, 4.10LS gears 1970 Mustang Mach1 -> Project in progress. 428CJ w/C6, and 3.73 geared detroit locker. 1938 Ford pickup -> Inherited Project. Custom 4 link rear suspension. 4in. chopped top.
True that! I'm going thru pipewelding school and it is amazing how much a bit of slag can weaken a weld when the test coupon goes in the bender,
One thing I found useful over the years is to add steel handles to my chisels and prick punches.
It lets me get them into tight areas with more control, and saves hitting fingers. I use a few inches of rebar which works well. Instead of swinging the chipping hammer and hoping to hit the target, place the punch or chisel where you want it and tap that instead.
6013, like 6011, is more of a drag stick rod. I love LoHydrogen 7018 but it is more sensitive to the 1/16 inch (or so) hold off gap. It welds with a little different technique. Practice on some similar material so you can really nail down the welder settings and the slag will literally fall off. I think you will like the final look of 7018 and it is nuclear grade stuff.
Didn't really mean to, I just got into "The Zone" and when I ran out of sticks I kinda realized I'm nearly finished 
1/8" electrode, 110-115 amps, 2 passes as necessary. . .most of the welds are compression loaded, only a few areas are in constant shear that I'm kinda concerned about.
