I was wondering if anyone out there had any little tricks to gettting FE distributors installed while the engine is still in the pickup? I'm having trouble getting the distributor to seat all the way down to the intake manifold. I think my problem is with the shaft that connects to the oil pump. The shaft falls out of the distributor when I go to install it. I noticed there is one end of that shaft that is pointed and the other is more flat, which end goes up?
Thanks for any input on this subject.

 

the poited end goes up to help the dizzy line up. originally there was a "washer" that slid over the shaft and helped keep it centered when the dizzy is out. to reinstall the shaft us a magnetic retriever to lower the shaft in or maybee use a strong magnet on top of the dizzy while lowering it into the engine to help hold it in.

 

The hex shaft (oil pump drive shaft pointed end up. You can install the shaft first into the oil pump, tip sets about level with lower boss hole in block.
With the engine at TDC #1 you can install the distributor, if it doesn't fit down flush on manifold, slightly rotate the engine, I use a remote start button on the fender solenoid to just bump the starter or turn crank by hand, this will rotate the shaft of the dist. and normaly will fall in place. Double check that #1 matches up on cap at TDC, might have to do this a couple of time to get dist. on #1 somtimes just moving a couple of teeth one way.
Make sure that if bumping starter with button, wheel are blocked and trans is in park or neut. Hope this Helps !

 

The flange to where the tie down sits should be app 3/16" above the intake.
As far as getting the dizzy installed and the pump drive engaged use a long 1/4" magnetic tip bit holder (add tape or any filler to keep magnet away from sticking to the drive), a 6 point 1/4" drive socket with extension or a length hose to turn the pump drive a little. A few times farting around then it will drop in.
If the intake was reinstalled did you align the intake so the dizzy's block bore and intake bore are concentric?

 

why bump the starter when all you have to do is rotate the distributor shaft

Just make sure the Vacuum Advance is in the correct position when you lower the distributor.

 

I got it. Turning the engine over with the starter did the trick. I tried turning the crank with a breaker bar & socket but using the starter worked much better. I just turned the engine over over and the distributor went right down into place. Thanks for the tip.

 

Instead of reaching down deep for the crank use a allen wrench in the alternator socket, it's higher plus app 1/4 the crank pulley diameter making it easy to turn.
It will take some thumb pressure on the belt to prevent belt slip.
Go to see ya goe it in, no try it over again to see if you can shorten the time it took.

 

hmm i guess im weird i use the big fan to turn the motor no tools required.

 

Even with the plugs out and dry (empty lifters) I will not risk bending fan blades or severe lacerations from the stainless flex fan. This motor will not turn over that easy even after 248K miles.
Allen in the alternator here to go around the clock setting lifter pre-load.

 

If you set the distributor in with the right gear timing, when you rotate the engine and the distributor fall into place (because the oil pump shaft is not turning and lines up and hex hole in the distributor), it should be set to #1 at TDC and aligned the true #1 on your cap (most high quality cap have OE #1 molded in) and the vac. advance will be centered in place. just my .02

 

Yes BUT.

turning the distributor shaft on insertion..... Does the same thing ...only you aren't changing engine part position which is what you are doing by bumping the starter.

That's why distributors rotate in the first place to get the timing right and That's why I questioned it.

I never bump the engine with a distributor removed.

 

A little tip for you guys for the FE's I learn the hard way to just as you guys. But thought, I never want this to happen again. Stop That darm lock washer from sliding down the hex pump drive shaft.. I put JB weld on it any time, I have the pan off. Remove pump and drive rod clean rod with acetone or some good type cleaner apply JB to the whole washer shaft areas make contact on with the shaft.Watch it until it setup so it doesn't run down to one side or one way or another just turn it so that it end up When it setup its uniform. Your pump drive rod troubles our over for good..
my 2cents
orich

 

orich; you would be so screwed should you have to replace a broken shaft that way. For many years (35) that keepers the first thing I threw away, rather be able to pull the shaft out the top when needed just careful when removing dizzy.
Now the same process but with ARP shaft.

 

How many shafts have you replace.?? If You broke shaft it would be due to a bad oil pump..Which means you still have to pull the pan. Think about it. Do it right the first time pays off in long engine life.. my 2cents
orich

 

orich; I have only broken one shaft in 940K miles, this was in the 414 with 180K with a HV pump and a "must have Moroso high performance" oil pump drive.
The one with a chromoly tube with allen drives pressed into the ends.
One allen shattered down on the pump.
Had a metallurgist test the broken piece, it was full of fractures that the naked eye could see, it was brittle like glass. Totally wrong temper for the intended use. Moroso F__ked up big time, so sweet of them they would only replace if I gave them both pieces but the shaft is in the sump under the windage tray the last 68K miles.
Yes I only have the broken stub in hand.
Installed a ARP shaft, turned the pump with my fingers then the pre-oil drive I have, pump is fine the shaft is what failed.
Oil stays clean all 13 1/2 quarts every 3K miles as well the drain magnet.
I think I can build a motor, lat one went 473K miles.