Very technical ignition question! Please HELP! (if you can :))
#1
Very technical ignition question! Please HELP! (if you can :))
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Aug-02 AT 05:25 PM (EST)]
Hey there thanks for looking! I have a rather long question and this due in part to the amount of aftermarket items I have on my 351W.
The Players:
Accel Super Coil with Ballast Resistor
--------positive and negative terminal
--------positive wired directly to the ballast
Duraspark II Ignition Module (83 Bronco)
--------Black: Ground
--------Green: Tach
--------Orange:Stator Assembly
--------Purple:Stator Assembly
Mallory Distributor without vaccum advance
--------no wires not even a direct ground
Petronix Electronic Ignition for the distributor
--------red:Petronix said hook this up to the positive on the coil
--------black:Petronix said hook this up to the negative on the coil
The Problem:
No spark to sparkplugs, however and getting 12.3 volts on of the coil wire going into the distributor.
The Questions:
1) The Duraspark II system has 4 wires coming from it I am concerned with.
Black: Ground
Green: Tach
Orange: Stator Assembly
Purple: Stator Assembly
What is the STATOR ASSEMBLY and where do I hook up the purple and orange wires if I no longer have one?
2) How should I route all the other wires so I don't fry my electronic ignition (Petronix said it operates ideally between 7-12 volts)?
3) An auto-parts guru said I should never be running over 8 volts from the coil as it my fry the distributor or the coil. It this true?
My ignition module was tested and it tested perfect so I know the issue is not there. The detailed timing is not an issue yet because I know I am not getting fire to the plugs. I have set the crank to TDC and gotten the timing close though I am sure of that.
Thanks for taking the time to read and respond. I am sooo close to getting it running it is itching my brain! Anyway, thanks!
Hey there thanks for looking! I have a rather long question and this due in part to the amount of aftermarket items I have on my 351W.
The Players:
Accel Super Coil with Ballast Resistor
--------positive and negative terminal
--------positive wired directly to the ballast
Duraspark II Ignition Module (83 Bronco)
--------Black: Ground
--------Green: Tach
--------Orange:Stator Assembly
--------Purple:Stator Assembly
Mallory Distributor without vaccum advance
--------no wires not even a direct ground
Petronix Electronic Ignition for the distributor
--------red:Petronix said hook this up to the positive on the coil
--------black:Petronix said hook this up to the negative on the coil
The Problem:
No spark to sparkplugs, however and getting 12.3 volts on of the coil wire going into the distributor.
The Questions:
1) The Duraspark II system has 4 wires coming from it I am concerned with.
Black: Ground
Green: Tach
Orange: Stator Assembly
Purple: Stator Assembly
What is the STATOR ASSEMBLY and where do I hook up the purple and orange wires if I no longer have one?
2) How should I route all the other wires so I don't fry my electronic ignition (Petronix said it operates ideally between 7-12 volts)?
3) An auto-parts guru said I should never be running over 8 volts from the coil as it my fry the distributor or the coil. It this true?
My ignition module was tested and it tested perfect so I know the issue is not there. The detailed timing is not an issue yet because I know I am not getting fire to the plugs. I have set the crank to TDC and gotten the timing close though I am sure of that.
Thanks for taking the time to read and respond. I am sooo close to getting it running it is itching my brain! Anyway, thanks!
#2
#3
Very technical ignition question! Please HELP! (if you can :))
Actually the install of the petronix for any application is about the same...
1) attatch the black wire to the negative side of the coil
2) attatch the red wire to the positive side of the coil
3) do not reverse these as it will destroy your ignition
4) install the distributor cap
5) start the engine
I guess I need to address this from the distrutor point of view since that is where I am having problems. There are NO wires coming from the distributor other then the two for the electronic ignition. Hmmmm
1) attatch the black wire to the negative side of the coil
2) attatch the red wire to the positive side of the coil
3) do not reverse these as it will destroy your ignition
4) install the distributor cap
5) start the engine
I guess I need to address this from the distrutor point of view since that is where I am having problems. There are NO wires coming from the distributor other then the two for the electronic ignition. Hmmmm
#4
Very technical ignition question! Please HELP! (if you can :))
Okay, you do not need the dura spark brain. You can toss that out.
Follow these steps and in 15 minutes your truck should be ready to go.
#1 Run a wire from the IGN plug on your ignition switch to the + (positive) side of the coil.
#2 Hock the red wire from the distributor to the + (positive) side of the coil.
#3 Hock the black wire from the distributor to the – (negative) side of the coil.
#4 Before replacing the rotor and cap check that your timing is around 6 BTDC.
#5 Replace the rotor and cap and try to start the engine. If the engine fails to start check the following. Is there 12 volts to the coil? If so then remove the cap and rotor and move the pick up (the part with the wires connected to it) .005 of an inch closer to the trigger and try it again.
Ignition coils don’t care about how much voltage is applied to them. All after market systems, such as those made by Crane and MSD, increase the secondary voltage of a coil (the voltage to the plug) by increasing the voltage to the primary side (the positive terminal on the coil) from a range of 450 volts (Crane HI-6) to over 1200 volts (MSD-8a), so running a flat 12 volts sure isn’t going to hurt one.
Follow these steps and in 15 minutes your truck should be ready to go.
#1 Run a wire from the IGN plug on your ignition switch to the + (positive) side of the coil.
#2 Hock the red wire from the distributor to the + (positive) side of the coil.
#3 Hock the black wire from the distributor to the – (negative) side of the coil.
#4 Before replacing the rotor and cap check that your timing is around 6 BTDC.
#5 Replace the rotor and cap and try to start the engine. If the engine fails to start check the following. Is there 12 volts to the coil? If so then remove the cap and rotor and move the pick up (the part with the wires connected to it) .005 of an inch closer to the trigger and try it again.
Ignition coils don’t care about how much voltage is applied to them. All after market systems, such as those made by Crane and MSD, increase the secondary voltage of a coil (the voltage to the plug) by increasing the voltage to the primary side (the positive terminal on the coil) from a range of 450 volts (Crane HI-6) to over 1200 volts (MSD-8a), so running a flat 12 volts sure isn’t going to hurt one.
#5
Very technical ignition question! Please HELP! (if you can :))
ok well first of all I want to thank you for the expert advice you have given me on the matter. It is very much appreciated! I feel like I am very close to a solution here and it is getting exciting.
I called Mallory today and they suggested that I do not need the Duraspark Ignition Module at all. They suggested exactly as you did that I hook the ignition wire to the positive on the coil and the red wire to the positive and black to the negative.
I have one question about this though. The Duraspark Module has a red and white wire that the manual states are for the ignition switch. Can I use these two wires and hook them up to the coil for the ignition wires or do I have to run seperate wires from the fusebox? I would assume if I use these that the red ignition switch wire would go to the positive side of the coil and the white wire would go to the negative?
Thanks again and I will let you know what happens!
#6
Very technical ignition question! Please HELP! (if you can :))
You can use the red wire, but do not use the white wire, just tape it off. Do not install any wire on the -(negative)side of the coil except for the negative wire coming from the distributor. You could accidently make a ground fault that would stop the coil from discharging.
#7
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#8
Very technical ignition question! Please HELP! (if you can :))
Well I don't have a tach in my instrument panel so unless there is something else I need it for I guess I won't have to worry about that right now. Unless there is something that I don't know...
Well that is evident isn't it Otherwise I wouldn't be posting religiously on here!
Well that is evident isn't it Otherwise I wouldn't be posting religiously on here!
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