On Victor Reinz's carbon covered intake gaskets they do not have port holes for exhaust crossover to the intake manifold.
Any tips or clues?
I'm thinking Unibit, gasket or leather punch would not cut the metal center.
No I will not run without exhaust manifold heat crossover.

 

I would use my Robo Zip on somthig like that.

 

Maybe drill each corner to square and cut with Dremel, Robo zip etc as mentioned...that's kinda weird they don't have the crossover cut out?

G.

 

Drill the corners then use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel.

 

Yep! Would be about the easiest way. Hopefully the cutoff wheel cuts smooth. If not undercut a hair and use a stone grinding bit or hand file to finish to size. The dremel cutoff wheels might be a little big for the short sides. I keep wheels that have worn down to a smaller dia for things like that. Or drill a few holes along the short side and grind smooth with the stone bit. LOL those little cutoff wheels liike to blow apart after a while also so don't ferget yer goggles!!

G.

 

Yeah Glenns on the right track.....Or like mentioned Carl..Drill a hole in the 4 corners and then take your Jig saw with a fine tooth blade in it, and cut the rest that way?

RJ

 

Russ; I have fear of the carbon surface breaking apart from the jig saws vibrations, heck touching the surface with masking tape will pull carbon.
From past experience with those Dremel wheels is only buy the fiberglass reinforced ones, standard ones explode just touching your work. I bought a 25 pack of them crappy things once.
Still waiting for Summit to deliver back ordered .050" higher (reduced spring seat pressure) Crowers chromemoly keepers. Unknown will be intake port alignment with thinner head gaskets this time around. Russ I haven't collected pictures yet, will do before assembly and send to you on your personal email.

 

I went the easy route, clamped gasket between two pieces of wood and drilled a 3/8" hole on the drill press.
I want a little heat for cold mornings but not to cause reduced air density and detonation problems.
Time will tell on results of a 3/8" hole.

 

You were right to provide manifold heat for your application. The gasket intentially blocks off the heat riser for applications like long-haul towing in hot country where any more heat is a killer.

In my 390, I stopped in Las Vegas to get gas once at 110 degrees and barely made it back onto the highway with gas boiling in the carb causing the engine to run poorly. Adding an insulating spacer under the carb reduced this problem, but with my next manifold change, I went to a gasket like the one in this thread. I also ran with no thermostat at all and had great cooling with no sign of overcooling. (I blocked of part of the radiator when in cold climates.)

Many early 390 applications had an aluminum plate under the carb that was there to provide heat in the winter, but it also kept the carb from getting hotter than coolant temp in the summer. (Mine was not hooked up when I had the gas-boiling problem.)

My point is there are rules, but there are always exceptions.

Archie

 

Well good Carl..we will find out how yours will work? Living many years out in SoCal I never worried about the crossover.. Until one year I went up to Big Bear (Snow Summit) for a weeks worth of skiing.. And we had just got 20" of fresh powder up on the Summit..It was so cold outside, I had to pull the plugs out of the truck and take em inside to the fireplace to get em toasty re-install them to get some warmth into the cylinder's before she would fire!! LOL..

Had that happen to my Harley one year too.. camping with the club up in the High Sierras<-sp? the night before we got ready to pack it in..we woke up to 8" of snow on the ground..and the bikes wouldnt fire!! So luckily it was all down hill for about 15 miles before we hit the Hwy...We just knocked them into high gear once we were rolling to build up heat in the cylinders, and it was kind of funny cause no two of the bikes started at the same time...It sounded like Popcorn going off coming down the pass as the bikes would fire up!! Aww to Funny! Guess you just had to be there!!

RJ

 

For years (30+) i've run a phenolic Mr.Gasket .290" thick spacer for reduced carb heat and vacuum source for the tranny. This spacer is a 4 hole with a small open area between bores on the primary .390" and .800" on the secondaries.
The Holley 670 SA has 1.560" bores at the throttle plates, seems gaskets are too small or too large for smooth air flow. One must clamp gasket under a aluminum spacer and Exacto knife cut to match bores.
For now I have to get up and running, later i'll get another 2" tall small 1.460" bore 4 hole phenolic spacer and bore it out to match the 1.560" 670's bore.
Also a longer kickdown tube will be needed, i'll cut up two and Tig weld for correct length.
This is better than having a spacer .085" larger than the carb base bore for higher velocity flow, better low end and stronger carb siginal, we are talking 11% more area hence velocity reduction. Splitting hairs you bet but then good enough isn't me.

 

Well Hell Carl...thats what its all about ..2% here and 5% there and 1% here and there..it all adds up....We use to call that Trick ****!! and thats why we didnt show are motors off at the Drag Strips!!! Kept it all under the radar!! LOL....

Hell we use to even use Moving blankets to cover the slicks to keep them at temp for consistancy.... Put the Fuel in the Motorhome/camper refer..just before it went in the tank for a run...Aww hell I have forgot more than I remember!! LOL.. But thats where my heart lays is in Drag racing!! Always had..always will be.....

RJ

 

Whe I raced at Fremont, 23 miles from home the officals would check my cooler for beer as it was packed with ice for the Cool Can I ran on my "Rambler" a 67 clone Scrambler with 100% Scrambler running gear and suspension. Then I got the 69 Javelin, started breaking parts big time.
I do these things because it's just me, blame my dad he taught me right.