Well I'm at it again.. Gas line ?
#1
Well I'm at it again.. Gas line ?
Does anyone have a picture of how they ran the gas line from the fuel pump up to the carb on a flathead 6 cyl 226 engine? I also need to see a diagram of how the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump, and while we are at it a diagram or pic of how the accelerator goes from the gas pedal to the carb. I am onto the next stage of my rebuild until Ilya disassembles the coe later this month.
By the way, I got the generator mounted and the belt on. It looks sweet. I have to find the right place to mount the regulator though. I will also be cleaning out the gas tank tomorrow. Muratic acid and water bath for it. The guy said to do it twice and then rinse it out real good but he did not say what to do the final rinse with. Water I guess and then let it dry out before install.
By the way, I got the generator mounted and the belt on. It looks sweet. I have to find the right place to mount the regulator though. I will also be cleaning out the gas tank tomorrow. Muratic acid and water bath for it. The guy said to do it twice and then rinse it out real good but he did not say what to do the final rinse with. Water I guess and then let it dry out before install.
Last edited by ksmith203; 02-13-2007 at 10:03 PM. Reason: sp
#2
Put 1/2 cup baking soda in 5 gal water for the first rinse to neutralize the acid. I would definitely slush coat the tank after the acid wash to seal any pinholes and keep it from rusting. You can get gas tank slushing compound at the private plane maintainance service at the airport (cheapest) or in smaller quantities at most motorcycle shops, or from Eastwood. Pour it into the dried tank roll it around until completely coated, pour out the excess, let dry.
Be careful using acid to clean the tank, it would be very easy to ruin a perfectly good tank. We never used acid, just some water and Tide, throw in a handful of large nuts and or a short length of chain, and shake shake shake. Repeat until the water comes out clean, rinse with hot water, set in the sun to dry. No chance of doing any additional harm. Slush compound after drying.
Be careful using acid to clean the tank, it would be very easy to ruin a perfectly good tank. We never used acid, just some water and Tide, throw in a handful of large nuts and or a short length of chain, and shake shake shake. Repeat until the water comes out clean, rinse with hot water, set in the sun to dry. No chance of doing any additional harm. Slush compound after drying.
Last edited by AXracer; 02-14-2007 at 07:24 AM.
#3
Hmm, just a bit of friendly teasing, did you happen to take any pictures BEFORE you took things apart? Might speed up the reassembly next time.
I can't say a whole lot though, because I have bought much of my truck in pieces, so I never had the chance to see how things went together (and came apart) Thank God for my manuals and this board
I can't say a whole lot though, because I have bought much of my truck in pieces, so I never had the chance to see how things went together (and came apart) Thank God for my manuals and this board
#4
#5
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Well I'm not going to be as much help this time. No diagram in the part or body book but it's a pretty simple thing.
Valve at bottom of tank, line runs straight, about 45 degree bend and continues straight, bends straight up the firewall where there is a little clip that holds in on and a flexible hose goes to the fuel pump.
Valve at bottom of tank, line runs straight, about 45 degree bend and continues straight, bends straight up the firewall where there is a little clip that holds in on and a flexible hose goes to the fuel pump.
#6
#7
Why is copper not acceptable? The people at napa said it would be fine. I guess I'm asking because, you probably guessed, I already ran the line. He said it would be better than metal because it would not rust. He is an old timer and owner of the napa store. Well what the he11 am I going to do now?
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#10
#11
Kevin,
Copper line will become brittle and more susceptible to cracking. As for rusting, the original line was steel and it lasted this long, or at least a majority of the trucks life. In that time the truck was used and abused in it's daily life as a work truck. Now it's going to be pampered and stored in a nice, dry place. The new steel line is going to last a lot longer than you'll be around.
As for the diagram for the accellertor linkage:
And the line from the fuel pump to the carburator:
I couldn't find a diagram of the fuel line routing that showed the routing for a flat six. It's different than an eight, it doesn't go near the firewall. The line comes out of bottom of the tank, of course just like the eight, runs along the driver's side frame rail to the frame cross member under the radiator and then to the fuel pump.
This drawing is not exact, I just drew it from memory of what is on my truck.
Copper line will become brittle and more susceptible to cracking. As for rusting, the original line was steel and it lasted this long, or at least a majority of the trucks life. In that time the truck was used and abused in it's daily life as a work truck. Now it's going to be pampered and stored in a nice, dry place. The new steel line is going to last a lot longer than you'll be around.
As for the diagram for the accellertor linkage:
And the line from the fuel pump to the carburator:
I couldn't find a diagram of the fuel line routing that showed the routing for a flat six. It's different than an eight, it doesn't go near the firewall. The line comes out of bottom of the tank, of course just like the eight, runs along the driver's side frame rail to the frame cross member under the radiator and then to the fuel pump.
This drawing is not exact, I just drew it from memory of what is on my truck.
#12
#13
In the pictures I put up, I ran the gas line down the passengers side rail to the fuel pump. I also moved the line to the other side of the frame crossmember. I had it going up to where the vent line comes out. I will run the supply to the carb similar to the pic bob posted for me. I have the line already. Kind of upset at the napa people. I asked for steel lines and he told me to use the copper because it would not rust and easier to work with. Even though he had no problem selling the $40.00 tube bender .
I used rubber coated fasteners to strap the copper to the frame as you can see in the pics. Well should I redo it or just see how it goes?
Kevin
I used rubber coated fasteners to strap the copper to the frame as you can see in the pics. Well should I redo it or just see how it goes?
Kevin
#14
Kevin,
I would leave it for now. It will take numerous years of constant abuse before the copper gets brittle enough to crack and leak. I have had vehicles with copper fuel lines and have never had a problem.
Of course, right now with it all torn apart and accesible it is the easiest time to redo it with a steel line.
Flip a coin
Bobby
I would leave it for now. It will take numerous years of constant abuse before the copper gets brittle enough to crack and leak. I have had vehicles with copper fuel lines and have never had a problem.
Of course, right now with it all torn apart and accesible it is the easiest time to redo it with a steel line.
Flip a coin
Bobby
#15