horn pad Problem
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#2
did you do this horn test with the wiring in the steering wheel before you installed it or just power it at the battery ?
if the first one..check the metal straps on the rag joint on the steering coupler.
if the second one
check the contact buttons in the horn pad.
if the first one..check the metal straps on the rag joint on the steering coupler.
if the second one
check the contact buttons in the horn pad.
Last edited by Mil1ion; 02-09-2007 at 04:09 PM.
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Sounds like the contacts in the horn pad are damaged to me if I understood you correctly.
You can short the two steering wheel connections right now and the horn sounds correct?
You can gently pry the rubber part off the horn pad and take a look inside.
You will see where the two wires connect to the switches. Is one of the wires pulled from the pads switch?
You can short the two steering wheel connections right now and the horn sounds correct?
You can gently pry the rubber part off the horn pad and take a look inside.
You will see where the two wires connect to the switches. Is one of the wires pulled from the pads switch?
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Forgot to ask you if you had cruise control or not... I assumed you have not got cruise control though...
Forgive this question as it might be very very obvious to some, but...
You are pushing the horn pad on the sides where the buttons are right? The buttons on the edges have small slotted grips. The horn will not sound from the center "Where the Ford oval is" on these horn pads.
Another way to test the horn pads themselves is with a multimeter set to ohms. Hook the two wires to the pad and check for continuity when the buttons are pressed.
These type horn pads are notorious for going bad, on the 1971-1977, and the 1978-1986 pads. The plastic backing they are made of falls to bits and without the plastic you cant squeeze the switches together.
On trucks without Cruise control...
If you take one apart from the rubber cover, you will see the two long narrow black rubber covered switches on each side. There is metal strips inside and when the black rubber is squeezed together is how the horn makes contact.
It seems strange that you can short out the connections and "beep", but cant make any horn pad work... unless you were unlucky to get three defective pads.... which would not be likely but not impossible either...
Hope this helps...
Forgive this question as it might be very very obvious to some, but...
You are pushing the horn pad on the sides where the buttons are right? The buttons on the edges have small slotted grips. The horn will not sound from the center "Where the Ford oval is" on these horn pads.
Another way to test the horn pads themselves is with a multimeter set to ohms. Hook the two wires to the pad and check for continuity when the buttons are pressed.
These type horn pads are notorious for going bad, on the 1971-1977, and the 1978-1986 pads. The plastic backing they are made of falls to bits and without the plastic you cant squeeze the switches together.
On trucks without Cruise control...
If you take one apart from the rubber cover, you will see the two long narrow black rubber covered switches on each side. There is metal strips inside and when the black rubber is squeezed together is how the horn makes contact.
It seems strange that you can short out the connections and "beep", but cant make any horn pad work... unless you were unlucky to get three defective pads.... which would not be likely but not impossible either...
Hope this helps...
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