SOLVED SEE EDIT. horn inop, blinker switch question also.
#1
SOLVED SEE EDIT. horn inop, blinker switch question also.
EDIT PROBLEM SOLVED
By reading posts here, studying the vehicle and noteing this from forum member "reamer" (Next paragraph)
...............But, with a cruise wheel, you "plug" in the black wire into either threaded hole that is used to pull the wheel, But my horn only works sporadically. I found the center of the column is not making a real good ground, because if I jump the ground wire while plugged into the wheel hole and the horn does not work, connect the jumper to any known good ground and the horn is reliable......................
I saw that I was MISSING the aforementioned black wire that "plugs" into the threaded hole in the steering wheel. I soldered a short black wire to the black wire, going to the horn switch and grounded it on the steering wheel. The horn works now.
Question is....is there a "third brush" somewhere in the column itself that completes a ground circuit to the rest of the chassis? I ask this because where you are "Grounding" the wheel at the pad is a rotating shaft, there needs to be some type of positive contact to the rotating shaft to complete the ground to the system....
1984 F150 302/AT/No tilt wheel
Horn did not work before I removed the turn signal switch to tighten the steering column upper housing (which I did).
Factory horn button does not activate the horn. If I ground the yellow wire at the horn pad, the horn blows. I haven't tried the cruise control, it's condition unknown.
I have all 4 brushes at the turn signal switch. As well as cruise control horn pad, on this cruise equipped 1984 F150. I cleaned the brushes and contact ring, on the steering wheel, before reassembly.
QUESTIONS 1 Was I supposed to "index" the rotating assembly containing the 2 small brushes, to a certain position, before I re-installed the steering wheel?
2 Any idea why the horn does not operate w/ the switch?
Thanks.
By reading posts here, studying the vehicle and noteing this from forum member "reamer" (Next paragraph)
...............But, with a cruise wheel, you "plug" in the black wire into either threaded hole that is used to pull the wheel, But my horn only works sporadically. I found the center of the column is not making a real good ground, because if I jump the ground wire while plugged into the wheel hole and the horn does not work, connect the jumper to any known good ground and the horn is reliable......................
I saw that I was MISSING the aforementioned black wire that "plugs" into the threaded hole in the steering wheel. I soldered a short black wire to the black wire, going to the horn switch and grounded it on the steering wheel. The horn works now.
Question is....is there a "third brush" somewhere in the column itself that completes a ground circuit to the rest of the chassis? I ask this because where you are "Grounding" the wheel at the pad is a rotating shaft, there needs to be some type of positive contact to the rotating shaft to complete the ground to the system....
1984 F150 302/AT/No tilt wheel
Horn did not work before I removed the turn signal switch to tighten the steering column upper housing (which I did).
Factory horn button does not activate the horn. If I ground the yellow wire at the horn pad, the horn blows. I haven't tried the cruise control, it's condition unknown.
I have all 4 brushes at the turn signal switch. As well as cruise control horn pad, on this cruise equipped 1984 F150. I cleaned the brushes and contact ring, on the steering wheel, before reassembly.
QUESTIONS 1 Was I supposed to "index" the rotating assembly containing the 2 small brushes, to a certain position, before I re-installed the steering wheel?
2 Any idea why the horn does not operate w/ the switch?
Thanks.
#2
I guess you're trying a new thread since no one answered those questions in that other one... OK, but listen...
Yesterday morning, Gary gave you a link to a thread (with pictures, links to factory documentation, and answers) to questions like these on this very topic, written just last month... did you by chance read that?
Yesterday morning, Gary gave you a link to a thread (with pictures, links to factory documentation, and answers) to questions like these on this very topic, written just last month... did you by chance read that?
#4
I read everything posted, thanks you. No tilt wheel, as I stated.
What wasn't covered............does the nylon ring with the 2 small contacts, need to be "indexed" in a particular clock position, when re-installing the steering wheel?
And if anyone has knowledge of inop horn cause, given it blows when the yellow wire on the horn pad is grounded (switch inop)?
My questions came in a round-a-bout way. I first asked about contact pin functions, since I was in there tightening the column collar. I figured I might as well cover the inop horn, while I had knowledgeable folks on the topic.
Thanks.
What wasn't covered............does the nylon ring with the 2 small contacts, need to be "indexed" in a particular clock position, when re-installing the steering wheel?
And if anyone has knowledge of inop horn cause, given it blows when the yellow wire on the horn pad is grounded (switch inop)?
My questions came in a round-a-bout way. I first asked about contact pin functions, since I was in there tightening the column collar. I figured I might as well cover the inop horn, while I had knowledgeable folks on the topic.
Thanks.
#6
My gut reaction is "probably not" but these switches aren't all the same 1980-86 and unless you provide pictures showing EXACTLY what you are asking about, most people are just gonna shrug their shoulders and move on.
Here is a pic of a junk column I have in my garage, it may or may not look like yours... the two spring-loaded contacts are for the horn and are immovable. However... the steering wheel itself might be indexed via a flat portion of the splined shaft... AND can you see where the ballpoint pen is in my picture? THAT is part of the turn-signal-cancellation mechanism, and that pin needs to be actuated by the steering wheel somehow, you should try and figure it out.
Here is a pic of a junk column I have in my garage, it may or may not look like yours... the two spring-loaded contacts are for the horn and are immovable. However... the steering wheel itself might be indexed via a flat portion of the splined shaft... AND can you see where the ballpoint pen is in my picture? THAT is part of the turn-signal-cancellation mechanism, and that pin needs to be actuated by the steering wheel somehow, you should try and figure it out.
#7
"Ctubutis" thanks for the photo.
I am referring to the pin the pen is pointing to. Approx. 30 degrees clockwise, from said pin, my ring has a spring contact. (2 Pins, so to speak). I was asking if that ring required indexing before installing the steering wheel.
Blinkers are cancelling OK. I'll get back into the horn, after, smog inspection, tires, etc. in a week or so. Thanks.
I am referring to the pin the pen is pointing to. Approx. 30 degrees clockwise, from said pin, my ring has a spring contact. (2 Pins, so to speak). I was asking if that ring required indexing before installing the steering wheel.
Blinkers are cancelling OK. I'll get back into the horn, after, smog inspection, tires, etc. in a week or so. Thanks.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mikeceli
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
07-01-2016 09:48 AM
paulpatter
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
02-13-2007 10:42 AM
dablack
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
07-14-2003 08:49 AM