I pulled the heads to have them reworked. My intake manifold has a valley pan with gaskets to the head and it had rubber gaskets to the top of the block.

The gasket set I found on line with the valley pan and the rubber gaskets included are listed for "LPG engine"

The gasket set with the valley pan and NO rubber gaskets is listed as "exc. LPG engine"

Assuming "LPG" means liquid petroleum gas (propane) I do NOT have a propane engine. And since someone else has had this engine apart I don't know if they used the wrong gasket set or if the parts supplier didn't list the parts properly...

Another online parts supplier only offered the part # that does NOT include the rubber gaskets.

Anyone have any experience with these gasket sets?

 

you don't need the valley pan. mr.Gasket720-208G are $13.00

 

I saw that part too and I noticed it had the rubber gaskets for the block. What's the purpose of the valley pan anyway?

 

Keeps oil from splashing on the bottom of the intake and getting said oil coked up on the cross over passage.

 

Don't use the rubber end gaskets no matter what gasket you go with, use RTV, I prefer blue myself.
I also use the felpro gaskets and no valley pans.

 

The LPG intake gasket blocks off the cross over passages as well as having the valley pan. These are both done to keep the intake manifold cool. Gasoline setups need the heat to keep the fuel vapourized but propane is gaseous at those temps. anyway so the extra heat is a drawback.

 

I have oil running down BEHIND my bell housing. Could an intake manifold gasket leak cause this?

I did the rear seal 1.5 months ago, that oil leak (down the FRONT of the bell housing) is gone. whew

 

Yes that can be from the rear chinawall seal, if you replace the intake gasket that is the reason me and almost everyone I know says not to use the supplied rubber or cork end gaskets but use RTV instead. But it is not the only possible cause here, especially if you have the stock oil preasure sending unit on the engine, if they go bad they can start leaking oil sometimes a lot, so before tearing into it, I would say take a look back there and see where it's coming from first.

 

Yes, I've thought about the sending unit as well. Tough to see back there, but I haven't gotten too serious about checking it. The rear seal job took a lot out of me. The previous owner put an after market oil pressure gauge and a new line on so his work might not have been perfect.

Thanks, didn't mean to split the thread too bad

 

I've got a edelbrock 2166 that is going on a 460. Should I use the valley pan and if I do need to use it, do the fiber gaskets go on top or bottom of the valley pan.

 

If you guys search past posts this issue was discussed in depth. If the valley pan wasn't needed then why did FORD ENGINEERS decide to put them on the 460? FORD COULD OF SAVED MILLIONS OF DOLLARS LEAVING THEM OFF. They aren't cheap.
Bear 45/70 & Monsterbaby were part of the past discussions. They both are real sharp so I recommend listening to them.
I believe the gaskets went on top of the valley pan. I also use RTV I like the red. I use cork gaskets. If my memory is right I bought the intake set & the valley pan was separate, CarQuest.
I see the valley pan as a heat deflector, keeping both oil from manifold and crossover heat away from lifters & cam.
I have seen cams go south on Chevys because of exhaust heat in the lifter valley. constant heat over time softens harden metals. The last time I brought this up there were a few I don't see around much anymore that wanted to argue the point. I won't argue over this again. Do as you wish.

 

The engine shop where I had my heads done said I should use the valley pan. He also said to NOT use gaskets at the ends but rather to use RTV by laying a bead about 3/8 diameter, wait a few minutes to let it skin over then lay another bead on top...It worked perfect!

My overall engine problem was bad valve seat and whoever worked on it before used studs at the corners that were too long, not allowing the nuts to tighten down at the intake causing vacuum leaks,

 

That sounds good. I used the gaskets (cork) on mine, with RTV at the corners. That was 4 years ago. No problems at all for me either. I know on small block Chevys if the block doesn't have the holes drilled for the rubber end gaskets then RTV must be used or the manifold will set up just a enough to let exhaust gases seep past the crossover ports and over time heat the lobes of the cam enough to cause them to start to flatten. I've had guys want to argue this point. I learned this after watching a guy replace 3 cams in 100,000 miles with flat lobes all in the same spot. A friend of mine that was an old GM partsman tried to tell him why this was happening. The reason was what I said above.

 

If they used the stock studs and had the heads milled more then .030 then that would happen. When you mill the heads it moves the intake mounting surfaces out enough to lower the overall position of the intake manifold.