1960 250 front end
#1
1960 250 front end
Had the front end checked on my truck today and was told that the kingpins had worn the axle to the point where it needs machined and new bushings pressed in. Total cost for repair: $1000. This doesn't even include the steering gear box which needs to be rebuilt. I have repaired and painted the truck, and have done all the repairs on this vehicle myself for the 3 years I've had it, and parts have always been affordable and accesible. Any ideas on places to look for front end parts, and any ideas on converting the 2wd to a 4wd...it has leaf springs in front, am thinking buying a salvage axle would be cheaper than the estimate I recieved. thank you.
#2
1960 250 front end
If you can take the parts off yourself and clean them up before taking them in for machining, you will save a ton of $$.
Also, consider ordering the parts you want (bushings & pins)directly. Then call around to some smaller machine shops.
I have yet to find a guy who would not work on the weekend for beer money. You should be able to get the work done for $100-$300 + parts if you are friendly and patient.
A salvaged axle will definately be cheaper than refurbishing yours, but it will be 40 years old as well unless you get real lucky.
Good luck!
Kris Taylor
Winnipeg, MB
1950 F-47 (For sale in classifieds!)
1997 F-140
Also, consider ordering the parts you want (bushings & pins)directly. Then call around to some smaller machine shops.
I have yet to find a guy who would not work on the weekend for beer money. You should be able to get the work done for $100-$300 + parts if you are friendly and patient.
A salvaged axle will definately be cheaper than refurbishing yours, but it will be 40 years old as well unless you get real lucky.
Good luck!
Kris Taylor
Winnipeg, MB
1950 F-47 (For sale in classifieds!)
1997 F-140
#3
1960 250 front end
ive been looking into swaping my truck from 2x to 4x, ive done alot of resurch and theres lots of options depending on $$ skill and time.
the simplest being to find a 1959-1964? (im not positive of the years) f250 4x4 to steal the stock parts off. ive only seen pictures of these so im asuming you wont just find one at the junk yards. no matter which way you go, tho, unless you do a complete body swap (which im cosidering)you still have front and rear drive shafts, transfercase, transfercase linkages and matching front and rear gear ratios to screw with
then theres working out steering linkages
-Sam
the simplest being to find a 1959-1964? (im not positive of the years) f250 4x4 to steal the stock parts off. ive only seen pictures of these so im asuming you wont just find one at the junk yards. no matter which way you go, tho, unless you do a complete body swap (which im cosidering)you still have front and rear drive shafts, transfercase, transfercase linkages and matching front and rear gear ratios to screw with
then theres working out steering linkages
-Sam
#4
1960 250 front end
I heard from a friend that has a 60 f-250 4x4 that it's real hard to get parts for the front axle. He cracked the front axle knuckle and he's having trouble finding a replacement axle, and not for very cheap. On the steering box. I have a rebuilt box for my 59 250 that I wont be using. Drop me a line at hirschi@nevp.com if you want it.
James
James
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#8
1960 250 front end
Hey... I just replaced my king pins this weekend. Wasn't too bad.Napa had the pair with new bushings, set pins, bearings and shims for (already can't remember) $50-$60 dollars. I also bought a brass drift to knock the old ones out. It's real easy. Just remove everything from the spindle, the side set pins(knock them out), drive the old king pins out with a hammer(either up or down) then take the spindle to the vise setting it up so the bushings will pass between the jaws as you drive them out(I used a think an 11/16" socket to drive them out)Strike firmly. Don't worry about hurting the spindle while driving the bushings out. It's hardened metal. Flip it over and do the other side and you're ready for the new ones. Make sure to line up the grease holes on the new bushings, then use a hard wood block on top of the bushing and proceed to hammer like crazy with a 2-3lb. sledge or dead-blow hammer. After getting it in a bit use a flat steel plate and hit it the rest of the way in. It doesn't even mushroom. and if it does, don't worry. The reamer will take care of it. YOU DO HAVE TO REEM THE BUSHINGS TO FIT THE KINGPIN. This you can have the shop do. just take the spindles and the kingpins to them. That's it!! I happened to have a friend with a set of reems. But without his guidance I would of messed up. I know this will save you tons of money if you go this route. It took me aprox. half a day to do it.
They went together perfect too.
They went together perfect too.