I used the Ford one-wire 100amp Tuff Stuff alternator on my 302. Kind of pricey though. I purchased from Jegs for around $180. Jegs and Summit have Ford one-wires for less also. Bolted right on.

 

I read a couple of weeks back that a 1 wire alternator is energized at a pre-set alternator RPM, whereas a multiwire Alt. is energized via one of the wires by the ignition switch. So untill you reach the specified RPM your Alt. will not be charging. The condition can be magnified if you have an overdrive transmission and/or aftermarket (under driven) pulleys. In which case the pre-set alternator RPM may not be reached as soon or ever.

 

That doesn't jibe with what I've read. Since older 1-wires depended on residual magnetism to "kick-start" themselves, they took some spinning to generate enough field current to produce power. But there isn't a set RPM they have to achieve to work, they will work at idle once they have started. Newer 1-wires don't even have that issue, they kick right off from the get-go.

This is rapidly evolving into a Ford vs. Chevy, Apple vs. PC, skis vs. snowboard kind of deal! It just isn't a very big deal either way!

 

Strangely enough my 3-wire does that. When I start the truck I have to bring the RPMs up to about 1000-1200 before the light goes off.

 

Mine must be the older style, but it only needs to get up to 1100 rpm +/-. So it really is a non-issue. Jag

 

It came off an 86 Buick so it may very well be an older type. I was just surprised about it because in my previous use of 3-wire alternators I had not run into that before...but this is my first use of a combination idiot light/voltmeter too. I always ran Ammeters before.

 

Where is the idiot light wire going to (not the one from the alternator, the other side of the bulb)? It should go to a switched hot wire somewhere near the most loads (fusebox for example). If you are going to the voltmeter with that wire, and the voltmeter is connected too close to the alternator output, it may not be doing any good.

 

It does goes to a switched hot wire. The ignition voltage is fused. That's the way the Chrysler wiring harness I used is designed...another little unanticipated surprise I encountered one day when the engine would not start because the fuse was blown!

 

The current issue of Classic Trucks has an article on a new one wire and the pro's and con's. If you are a subscriber you already probably know this though.

 

Seawulff, I couldn't find the article your talking about? I noticed on a website, they have a kit that bolt to your stock Ford alternator and converts it to a one wire system. Anyone seen this kit before? They run about $40.

 

i am using a chrome ford alt. that has tiny one wire regulator mounted on the outside rear . like the gm but mounts to the outside instead of being on the inside...slick and simple..my local rebuild sold me the regulator.i like it

 

I grew up in a small town called Holtville. That town was so poor that people could only afford one wire for their alternators!! Jag

 

Jag, for the price of my one 8GA wire, I could of gotten 3 regular wires for less. LOL...

 

...and all those comedians out of work! Don't quit your day job.