Having a problem with my 96 van.
Used it to tow my trailor Saturday with no problem.
After unhooking the tralor tried to move the truck up a small rise in my driveway and it barely had any power.
Started it up again a little later and it had no power it ran smooth with the trans in park but would shake a little when I put it in gear felt like it was going to stall.

Went to work on it the next day and it woulnt even start.
It felt like it was trying to start while the key was on but shut off when I let the key go.
I thought it was the filter so I replaced that and it still wont start.
Im gonna check the Glow Plug Relay tommorrow butIm kinda doudtful of that since I dont think I shut it off while I was unhooking the trailor and it ran poorly right after that.

Also I had it checked at the dealor a couple months ago for poor mileage and they told me I had a bad #8 injector I havent gotten around to changing that yet.
Any ideas what else I should look at?

Thanks
John

 

It's very important that you Keep the batteries fully charged during all this "no start" issue.

Does the tach move while cranking the engine?
Is the CEL on?

Did you fill the filter housing with diesel? It will take a while to get fuel to the injectors especially since it didn't start right away.

Cross out the 2 big terminals on the GPR for 30-45 seconds before attempting to start. This overrides the GPR if it has problems.

 

Gotcha about the batteries there dead right now have the charger on them.

Primed the filter again and it actually seemed like it was trying to start it did kick a little but then the batteries went dead.
This makes me think its not the GPR.

It seems like I may not be getting fuel.

I did try to listen for the in tank fuel pump no sound from tank, (do I have one)?
There was no fuse in the spot were fuel fuse should be I dont understand this.Looks like there never was one put one in anyway.
There was a fuel relay that seemed to overheating I changed that just before it tried to start.

The owners manual says there is a fuel cutoff switch reset.
I cant seem to find it supposed to be in either passenger side kick panel or under dash by steering column.
I cant seem to find it anyone know where it could be if I even have one?
I did look inside back doors nothing there.


I dont have a tach and I dont see any CEL's

 

Sounds like no fuel pressure to me. I believe you have a mechanical fuel pump, it's mounted underneath the turbo and a PITA to change. You have to be careful not to drop the plunger rod down into the crankcase.

 

Yeah I think its not getting any fuel. I tried to start it again after priming and the filter housing wasnt full. It sputtered once or twice.

Are you sure about the mechanical pump?

I have something that looks like a pump attached to the drivers side of the filter housing.

Would I still have a pump in the tank?

And would I still have the fuel cutoff switch?

I really dont want to do stuff like changing the pump or dropping the tank for a pump when all I might have to do is push a button.

 

WHen it tries to start you should get some white smoke at first and then it will go away.

Check your oil level, no joke, the injector are fired with the engine oil. There is a hgh pressure pump on the front of the engine it has a small plug on top of it. Remove the plug and see if there is oil in there. It should be about and inch down from the top. If not fill it with engine oil.

You have a mechanical pump in the valley of the engine. It's between the filter housing and turbo intake piping. Your truck did not come from the factory with an electric pump. There's no need for a cutoff switch for mechanical pumps. The thing on the side of the filter housing is the fuel pressure regulator.

It's going to take a lot of cranking to get it going. Are the batteries up to the job. If they are even a little bit suspect, replace them. Especially if you use it in cold climates. Get the most CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) batteries you can fit in there.

 

Ok so I dont have an electric pump in the tank or a cutoff switch?
This would explain no fuse in the panel but the owners manual says I have a cutoff.

So you think the mechanical fuel pump is bad?
Is it between the fuel filter housing and the orange turbo intake tube?
There is something connected to the air intake tubing between the air filter and the turbo?

Last time I checked the oil level it seemed ok.
Where exactly is the HPOP and were is the plug?

Batteries should be up to it but they are starting to take some abuse.
Been trying 4 days now and just needed to put them on the charger today.

See how much longer they can take.

 

where do you live?

is it cold?
plug in the block heater for a while this will make your starting process a lot easier.
sounds like you got some burnt wiring to me.

 

Im in Ohio, but it really hasnt been to cold here the past week.
Might try the heater but Im leaning toward the fuel pump since the filter housing isnt full when I open it after trying to start.

 

Here's picture of the fuel pump looking fromj the rear of the engine to the front.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...achmentid=2694

 

Don't bother with the heater. You found your problem.

 

cuda thanks for the pic that helps a lot.
Sounds like the pump for sure huh?

 

Yep, the fuel pump is bad if it's not filling the filter housing. BTW: if you have 2 tanks, switch to the other tank and try again just to see if you have a restriction to the pump, kinda doubtful though but you never know. Most of these pumps start leaking instead of not pumping. Search this site for instructions on replacing the pump.

If you have a pump that looks like this
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...achmentid=2673
you must remove the turbo. It a california emmisions truck.

Click the link in my signature for part numbers. Get new fuel lines and new banjo bolt washers. You'll understand this when you get the instructions.

 

My pump doesnt look like that second picture with the ufo looking thing on it.
But it is blocked pretty much by the turbo.
I need to go in from the back side since I have a van.
I do have good access to the turbo from the drivers compartment.
How difficult would it be to remove the turbo?
And how much of it would I have to remove?
The turbo itself or the entire assembly with the cast exhaust part?

 

I got all my parts pump hoses and banjo bolt gaskets today.
Gonna try to do it tommorrow hope I dont have to take the turbo off but it might actually be easier that way.