I've got a white 95 F-250 I'm planning on repainting it the same factory white color. What brand of paint and what type of paint (single stage, two stage) would you recommend? I need something fairly easy to work with as this will be my first time painting an automobile, but I would like the results to last as well as the factory paint job did!

Let's let the learning begin!

 

Two stage(bc/cc) is the best bet for the novice painter. More forgiving, blends easier, and just put 3 coats of clear on the basecoats to allow for mil thickness reduction when you have to cut/buff the clear to get out dustnibs ,etc. ..


Brand of paint ? hmm, I used PPG Concept, but they have gone thru the roof with their prices for their top of line Global/Concept. But they do carry the omni line for the budget minded. Price will dictate what quality of paint you are getting. If it is WAY below average market for a top quality brand price, do no set your expectations too high for it. Dupont, Nason, Martin-Seymour, HOK, all good. ygwypf ... good luck jmo

 

Sikkens has a paint called U-tech that is very good paint. I sold it a couple of years ago at the paint store I worked at in Reno and everyone we sold it to said that it was a really good paint to spray. I work in a paint store here in Billings and we sell Sherwin Williams but I don't recommend it as it's a really touchy paint to work with.

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys! I never knew that a 2 stage paint job was easier... see I'm learning already!

I'll definately check out the brands you two mentioned as well. And I'll also remember that lifelong rule of you get what you pay for.

 

Just remember that your prep work is 90% of the final paint job. The more time you take on prepping the truck, the longer the paint job will last.

 

Yeah I'm trying to be as meticulate as I can on my prep work... roughing everything up with 80 grit so the paint can get a good bite. Then I'll be sure to wipe it ALL down with laquer thinner a couple of times right before I paint.

The biggest pain in the butt seems to be masking so far. Also I'm going to remove the inside door panels so that I can take the mirrors off and that's always a pita.

Any suggestions on how to paint the back of the cab well? I've got a headache rack on there. I suppose I should probably take the headache rack off huh?

I looked at how much of a pain it would be to remove the bed and that would be a HUGE p.i.t.a.

 

Please don't "rough it up with 80 grit" to prep it!!! If all you need to do is a scuff and shoot, wet it with 400, 80 grit is for bodywork, not paint prep, if you do that you will be VERY disappointed!!
I've been using Matrix basecoats and clears for a while now and love them. Same formulas as PPG, Sikkens, and Valspar at about half the price. The clears are Awesome!!!

 

Haha, looking back at my post above I should have known that reply was coming. I was plannin on going progressively finer grits after the original scuffing. I'm doing body work right now and have 80 grit on my mind!

So wet sanding with 400 grit is the preferred method of scuffing up the paint for bite? Maybe I'll just do that instead of starting with a coarser grit and save myself some time!

Sooo many things to learn about body work!

 

OK, step one sand with 80 grit
Step 2 shoot 2 coats of a primer surfacer
Step 3 sand primer with 150 after dried
Step 4 tack cloth or just an air blow gun to take sanding dust off
Step 5 shoot 2 coats minimum of color for complete coverage
(paint hood in diagonal motions and front to back and side to side to make it even shade)
Step 6 color sand if needed with 800 or higher
Step 7 shoot 3 coats of clear minimum
(stay away from Strato-clear from PPG IT RUNS very easily)
Step 8 let paint dry over night if its a garage job, then razor blade drips (if needed) n wet sand with 1000 or 1500 grit!!! 400 is way too coarse
Step 9 Buff, I suggest using the 3M superduty compund, its expensive but its quality
ALSO MAKE SURE YOU KNOW ALL FLASH TIMES FOR THE PAINTS
IF you are able to get to a O'rielly auto parts store I suggest using their AUTOMASTER URETHANE CLEAR if you do not want to dig deep in your wallet.

 

PPG basecoat DBC is very good. But its expensive depending on the color also. Omni is ok, it doesnt cover as well as PPG though. 2nd demension from Sherwin williams is ok but its like Omni it doesnt cover well as sherwin or PPG line. I'd say go with PPG DBC basecoat system, and the PPG concept high solids clear, or that Automaster Urethane clear i mentioned.

 

how is PPG's economy line (equal to PPG's MBC)? here is the link..

http://www.ppgcarpaint.com/products....=9177&SPCId=18

 

PPG's economy line is Omni which is MBC, MAE, MTK etc etc like 2nd demension is to Sherwin williams

 

What would it be like to shoot the base coat using an off the shelf enamel equipment paint like rust stop from ACE hardware and then clear coating it with a good clear coat? With good prep work would it stick as well as the higher end paints? I'm sure there's some big reason not many people do it...

I'll probably go with an economy PPG or similiar paint. I know there's going to be some flaws and that's ok because it's basically just going to be my trailer pulling pickup. It'll sit inside the garage probably 90% of the time once I'm finished with it.

Oh and I'll definately shoot a primer surfacer first. I was pretty much set on doing that anyways just to smooth out the surface some.

Thanks for all your help! That one post with all the steps for painting is really a great post. I printed that sucker out!

 

You could clearcoat, just make sure its flash time is up and the enamel is dry, cuz the paint might just drip off cuz of the reducer or activator in the clear. (if the clear is another brand) but if the enamel sets up nice you wont need clearcoat probably.

 

With an enamel, you won't need a clear. Enamel dries to a high shine, unlike basecoat. If you want to try this, you'll have to let the enamel cure then wetsand again before clearcoating or else the clear won't stick. For the project you're describing, I'd just use the enamel and be done with it. If you want a higher end finish, use the Matrix Basecoat/clearcoat system, you won't be sorry!