I have to take the front block or timing cover off my engine. The manual says to take off the fuel pump, oil pan and radiator which I have done. How do I get the lower fan belt pulley off. It has a large nut in the middle which turns with the crank shaft I think. Is there a special tool for this. Do I take that bolt off or leave it on. Are there any other tricks that I need to know. I loosened the engine mount and will also support the engine like the manual says to do.

 

An air impact wrench makes it easy; without adequate tools it gets ruff at times. Been there and aint going that way again!

 

I don't have an air impact wrench so I need a little lower tech method. Something with hand tools and elbow grease. Does the pulley bolt on or is it just a compression fit.

 

after taking the bolt out you need a puller to get it off sinse its pressed on.you have to stop the engine from turning over to get the bolt out.if its a standard put a pair of visegrips on the flywheel.

 

One of the easiest way to keep the engine from turning over while you remove the crank bolt is to wedge something against the flywheel. You could get a buddy over to hold a prybar against the starter teeth.

As its been said, you will need a puller to remove the harmonic balancer. Do not use a 2 or 3 jaw puller on the balancer, it will ruin it (don't ask me how I know). I puller like you use for steering wheels is the type you need. If you don't have a puller you can usually borrow one from the local parts stores.

Good luck,
Bobby

 

My truck is an automatic and up on jack stands, if I put it on the ground and put it in gear will that keep the engine from turning over while I try to remove the bolt. The other issue is how do I go about lining up the dampner against the seal without the special tool that Ford used to keep it from leaking, any tips from the experts are appreciated.

 

Take the inspection cover off the bottom of the bellhousing, you should be able to stick a large screwdriver or prybar up in there. Its pretty easy.

The leading edge of the damper at the seal area is beveled. When its time to put it all back together all you have to do is lube the seal and the mating surface on the damper. Then, using the crank bolt, press it back into place. Check the sealing surface on the damper, they tend to get worn where the lip of the seal rides and can leak. Its no big deal, you can buy a sleave that slides over that area for a few dollars. Basically if you can feel the groove with your fingernail then you should go ahead and sleave it.

Bobby

 

I don't mean to display my ignorance but where is the bell housing? Can I ruin the flywheel by wedging a screwdriver in the teeth of it and will just putting it in gear do the same thing or will the engine just turn over? Thanks.

 

Not a problem
The bellhousing is the fat part of the transmission that bolts to the back of the engine, it basically covers the flywheel and torque converter. There is usually a stamped tin inspection cover on the bottom side held on with 2 to 4 bolts. If you don't have an inspection cover you can remove the starter and have access to the flywheel through that opening. You're best bet would be to have someone hold a prybar. Place the tip of the prybar in the ring gear teeth that go around the outside of the flywheel (these teeth are what the starter engages) and brace it against the bellhousing. Now you go up front and loosen the crank bolt. It would be pretty hard to mess the flywheel up. It shouldn't take a ton of force to loosen the bolt.

I've always manage to keep the engine from turning by using something against the flywheel and haven't damaged anything yet. Its not as bad as it sounds

With the car on the ground and the tranny in park the engine would still be able to turn over.

Bobby

 

Thanks a lot. I will let you know how it turns out. Everytime I make a little headway I wind up creating a new problem for myself that I have to fix. This started out as a simple water pump installation.

 

I know exactly how you feel

1 step forward and about 18 backwards. Not to worry, you will overcome these minor setbacks and be back out running down the road in no time.

Good luck
Bobby

 

Bobby, Thank you for your awesome help. I got the damper off lickity split. I wedged a small phillips head screwdriver into a hole on the fly wheel and using a 30" breaker bar got the nut off and I had a wheel puller which got the damper off easily. Now all I have to do is get the piece of the bolt which snapped off in the block behind the timing cover out and reinstall everything and then I will only be 8 months behind schedule! Thanks again for the words of encouragement.
Chris

 

Chris,
No problem, I'm glad that it worked out for you. Ihate trying to remove broken bolts! Use lots of patience (something I lack...LOL) Hopefully you have enough bolt stickign out to get a grip on. If you hae to drill it try and level off the end first so you can get a good pucnh with a center punch. Go slow and easy
There are tons of good tips for broken bolts, both on this site and on thenternet in general.

Let's see....8 months behind schedule? Sounds like you are right on time to me!

I'll tip back a frosty cold one for you. Good luck with having it all go back together smoothly
Bobby