ATS ported housing vs WW
#1
ATS ported housing vs WW
I know its been posted to death but I need clarification. I have the WW and it has fixed my turbo surge for the most part, but not all of it.
1-What is the max psi for the WW?
2-What is the max psi for the stock post 99 wheel?
3-If the stock wheel flows more air should I have gone with the ATS ported housing since it can handle more boost?
4-What is the max psi running the stock wheel with the ATS housing?
5-Is it recommended to run both WW and the ATS housing? I've read that its not.
I'm looking for the most air flow without surge. Should I consider a Ball-Bearing Turbo?
1-What is the max psi for the WW?
2-What is the max psi for the stock post 99 wheel?
3-If the stock wheel flows more air should I have gone with the ATS ported housing since it can handle more boost?
4-What is the max psi running the stock wheel with the ATS housing?
5-Is it recommended to run both WW and the ATS housing? I've read that its not.
I'm looking for the most air flow without surge. Should I consider a Ball-Bearing Turbo?
#2
OK, so I found that 25psi on a stock wheel is as good as it gets.
I'm guessing that a WW is a few psi lower before the power peters-out.
The ATS housing with a stock wheel max is 30psi.
I venture to say that an ATS housing with a WW is a few psi lower than that.
So do I get an ATS housing to go with my WW? Doing that I go from 22-23psi of useable boost with my WW to 27-28psi with an ATS housing and a WW.
What do you guys think?
By the way, my beautiful wife called and said my birthday present will be here next week...152 DB Chrome Triple Train Air Horns, Compressor & Tank. It's enough to bring a tear to my eye! I wish upon everyone here that you have or will have such a loving and understanding wife and/or girlfriend.
I'm guessing that a WW is a few psi lower before the power peters-out.
The ATS housing with a stock wheel max is 30psi.
I venture to say that an ATS housing with a WW is a few psi lower than that.
So do I get an ATS housing to go with my WW? Doing that I go from 22-23psi of useable boost with my WW to 27-28psi with an ATS housing and a WW.
What do you guys think?
By the way, my beautiful wife called and said my birthday present will be here next week...152 DB Chrome Triple Train Air Horns, Compressor & Tank. It's enough to bring a tear to my eye! I wish upon everyone here that you have or will have such a loving and understanding wife and/or girlfriend.
#3
Rampage,
I don't think the WW has a max psi it's more of a turbo design thing. The WW is the cheaper way to eliminate surge
and get the cool jet sound to boot. The ATS housing is going to totally cure surge with the stock wheel but it's $425 or so.
It flows more air because of the larger intake .Comes with it's own intake adapter.
The BB unit, Garrett GTP38R, can handle up to 40 psi because of the BB design AND a larger 1.00 exhaust housing. It is a wastegated unit(about $1650). The Van turbo would probably be your best bet for cost(about $900)/performance(higher boost)...and keeping EGT's at a good level. The van turbo with it's 1.15 exhaust housing combined with an ATS housing is a real pumper according to many members.
Nut
I don't think the WW has a max psi it's more of a turbo design thing. The WW is the cheaper way to eliminate surge
and get the cool jet sound to boot. The ATS housing is going to totally cure surge with the stock wheel but it's $425 or so.
It flows more air because of the larger intake .Comes with it's own intake adapter.
The BB unit, Garrett GTP38R, can handle up to 40 psi because of the BB design AND a larger 1.00 exhaust housing. It is a wastegated unit(about $1650). The Van turbo would probably be your best bet for cost(about $900)/performance(higher boost)...and keeping EGT's at a good level. The van turbo with it's 1.15 exhaust housing combined with an ATS housing is a real pumper according to many members.
Nut
#5
Originally Posted by RAMPAGE_F350
Thanks Nut, I'll do some homework on the Van Turbo set-up.
are both running this setup. Mech2161 used to sled pull with the Van turbo and he thought it was a great unit to work with. Quite often junk yards have the units cheap. Good luck.
edit: speeking of van turbos, $500 for this unit is a killer deal: 250008434329
nut
Last edited by PSNut; 07-21-2006 at 02:09 PM.
#6
Originally Posted by RAMPAGE_F350
I know its been posted to death but I need clarification. I have the WW and it has fixed my turbo surge for the most part, but not all of it.
1-What is the max psi for the WW?
2-What is the max psi for the stock post 99 wheel?
3-If the stock wheel flows more air should I have gone with the ATS ported housing since it can handle more boost?
4-What is the max psi running the stock wheel with the ATS housing?
5-Is it recommended to run both WW and the ATS housing? I've read that its not.
I'm looking for the most air flow without surge. Should I consider a Ball-Bearing Turbo?
1-What is the max psi for the WW?
2-What is the max psi for the stock post 99 wheel?
3-If the stock wheel flows more air should I have gone with the ATS ported housing since it can handle more boost?
4-What is the max psi running the stock wheel with the ATS housing?
5-Is it recommended to run both WW and the ATS housing? I've read that its not.
I'm looking for the most air flow without surge. Should I consider a Ball-Bearing Turbo?
3. Yes, that would've been the best combo
4. From all that I've researched, around 30 psi
5. ATS and stock wheel would be best, only reason to do ww in that case would be for the sound bonus.
Van turbo with ATS housing is a great option.
#7
jeremy has the ATS and stock wheel. it is proven that the stock wheel flows more air. i rode in his truck and the whistle from the ATS is alot more like the 6.0 whistle, it is a higher pitched whistle than the wicked wheel is. also, when you are on boost, it seems like the sound takes longer to fade away when you let out of the fuel. i like the sound it makes.
however i have the WW, and it was a deep sound. then i took off the insulation on the hot IC pipe and it made it higher pitched sounding. so now im going to compound the ATS and WW after i get gauges, for the best sound and most whistle. i dont really mind losing some flow, injectors will make up for it later.
i do have a good condition stock wheel for sale or giveaway if anyone needs it. it has 69K on it and is not dusted. rampage if you do not have the stock wheel anymore and you want the most flow with no surge, the ATS and stock wheel is the WTG.
however i have the WW, and it was a deep sound. then i took off the insulation on the hot IC pipe and it made it higher pitched sounding. so now im going to compound the ATS and WW after i get gauges, for the best sound and most whistle. i dont really mind losing some flow, injectors will make up for it later.
i do have a good condition stock wheel for sale or giveaway if anyone needs it. it has 69K on it and is not dusted. rampage if you do not have the stock wheel anymore and you want the most flow with no surge, the ATS and stock wheel is the WTG.
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#8
So the best option is:
1-For stock turbo add the 1.15 exhaust housing, ATS intake housing and keep the stock wheel. Unless you want more whistle use the WW with that combo.
OR
2-Get a van turbo which already has the 1.15 exhaust housing then add the ATS housing and keep the stock wheel. Unless you want more whistle use the WW.
Its which ever is cheaper right?
1-For stock turbo add the 1.15 exhaust housing, ATS intake housing and keep the stock wheel. Unless you want more whistle use the WW with that combo.
OR
2-Get a van turbo which already has the 1.15 exhaust housing then add the ATS housing and keep the stock wheel. Unless you want more whistle use the WW.
Its which ever is cheaper right?
#15
I dont mean to pull a on everybody, but i was wondering why the 1.15 ar ratio exhaust housing is popular. The higher the ar ratio the more exhaust gas energy it takes to spool the turbo. I would think an ar ratio of .89 or something like that would be more desirable, that would spool the turbo sooner in the RPM range creating more low end torque. Or are some of you going for top end horsepower? I have seen housings for our trucks with lower ar ratios on ebay and other sites. So i know they are out there. Someone correct me if im wrong, im just curious. Thanks