I smear anti-seize compound on the crank bolt and on both the crank and the inside (female part) of the crank pulley.
that way, next time (this Saturday) the crank bolt loosens easily and the pulley slides right off and back on easily.
I make a punch mark on the idler pulley that drives the distributor and a matching mark on the block so I can line that pulley right up after I've put the new belt on.
I always take out the radiator with shroud attached. It takes only 15 minutes (I drain the coolant into a pan and put it back when I'm done) and makes the belt job easier and I don't risk punching a hole in the radiator.
My '88 Ranger is about to hit 323,000. About every other oil change it will use a quart.
Still running the original fuel pumps and emission equipment and fuel injectors.
It's been an amazing car. Only trouble I've had with it was the ignition module died one time and the cat converter died a couple times. Had to replace the heater rad once too. Still using the original seat covers. I think those are made out of Kevlar.
Oh, and the front floor on the right leaked gallons of water in the winter rain here in the NW. On a tip, I smeared clear caulk at the outside top of the door pillars. Not one drop got in last winter.