2003 Excursion LTD 4X4
6.0L motor
March 1, 2003 build date
Original C94 injectors
Only reflashes done - 12/12/04 is latest on PCM
Truck is stock except for coolant filter

67,700+ miles on truck
4,792 miles on oil that was changed out and sampled
Use Rotella-Syn (5W-40) since 50,000 miles
Use Motorcraft oil filters - only.
Use Racor fuel filters only (IH dealer due to lower cost - but Racor made)

My Blackstone report states:
Your wear metals look terrific! This oil was in use 4792 miles, and we found steady and low overall wear levels. You're doing something right when you operate this Power Stroke. We did not find any undue contamination from blow-by or moisture, and the air and oil filtration systems are working well. The viscosity was low, but that's a very common find with this engine. It's not hurting anything. This oil read like a 10W/30, a grade you can run in this type engine. Nice engine! This oil is holding up well for you. You could even run more miles, if you wanted.

Viscosity is low (as all oils are) in the 30 weight range (61.4)

Fuel dilution was <.5 (must be less than 2.0)- I am - good report!!!

Antifreeze is 0 - good thing!!

Water % is 0.0 and should be less than .1 - good report!!

Insoluables were .3 and should be less than .8 (Good report).
------------------------------------------------------------
In speaking with Blackstone tech, he stated that all oils shear down in the 6.0L motor due to the way oil is used to lubricate and fire the injectors, but 30 weight oil is approved for the 6.0L motor so I am good to go... just don't run it hard for "extended drain intervals".

A by-pass filter set-up only filters out "insoluables" and the stock filter will do a good job in meeting the <.8 required. By-pass filter people do not necessarily have lower values and he stated that frequent oil and filter changes are the key. Running a by-pass filter and extended drains may not be the best use of your money or time since the viscosity shears down anyway so if your oil is indeed clean due to the by-pass filter, your risking running it hard for many more miles on low viscosity oil - not a good thing!!!

Big rig trucks use a different systems, have costlier oil changes and are run at full speed for many hours and miles (million or more) and benefit from by-pass set-ups. But on the 6.0L, I asked him of all the reports they do, do people with by-pass filters get better oil sample results... and he stated they get the same or actually worse since they feel they can work the motor and oil harder and longer!!!

A by-pass oil filter does nothing for soluables like antifreeze, water or fuel in your oil... just the insoluables. Your motor needs fresh clean oil and changing the oil and filter on a regular basis is key!!! Since my oil sample results (I have done it every 5,000 miles) shows an insoluables reading of either .4 or .3, which is well below the .8 allowed or required for good filtration.

I am just curious, who is running a by-pass oil filter on their 6.0L motor and show consistent insoluables readings of less than .3????? I would love to swap Blackstone PDF files as proof, but with my stock Motorcraft filter and either Motorcraft dino oil for the first 50,000 miles and now Rotella-Syn since then, I am "calling out" all by-pass oil filter people after speaking with Blackstone Labs and seeing my own historical oil reports. With a .3 reading, I am not sure if I need much cleaner oil?????

Just trying to compare apples to apples and start a "friendly discussion/comparison for all to learn from... and share my good news and great truck (to off-set all the negative posts).

In conclusion... Racor/Motorcraft oil and fuel filters for me... they woek better than any other "brand" out there... at least for the 6.0L motor!!

Thanks,

Jeff

 

jeff do u run rotella syn year round, im running it but wonder if i switch to a heavier oil in summer months?

 

I run syn year-round. No reason not to...

All motor oils are made for year round... hence the multi-grade number... 15W-40 or 5W-40 (as in the case of Rotella). This just means that the oil (any brand that is) can act like a 15 weight or a 5 weight in cooler temps, but acts like a 40 weight at warmer temps or when the oil has heated up.

The "W" stands for "winter".... I use synthetic year-round for the operational benefits of synthetic and the extra protection it gives. For me, I switched to synthetic for winter starting benefits, mileage increase (I picked up 1 mpg after switching to syn) and the extra protection syn gives over dino. Keep in mind, I used Motorcraft 15W-40 for the first 50,000 miles with excellent results on my Blackstone reports, but I bought into the synthetic benefits and will stay with it for the life of my truck (year-round).

I chose Rotella-syn 5W-40 becuase it is CI4+ rated (I like and trust Mobil, but what is available at Walmart is not CI4+ rated - New Turbo Diesel lable is do out and is CI4+ rated I hear). The CI4+ was developed for EGR motors, increased soot control and reduced shearing... so any brand (dino or syn) that is CI4+ rated is a "winner in my book".

Good luck,

 

If Walmart doesn't start stocking the new Mobil Turbo label soon, I will be forced to switch to something else....

1,000 miles to go before next oil change....

 

Jeff, this is backed up by reports of people trying to run Amsoil for extended OCI, and their 6.0L's running bad, which is corrected by changing the oil.
Running the oil too long, or running oil without the CI-4+ API certification is asking for nothing but trouble!!

 

I also run Rotella Syn 5W-40 for 5000 miles and use an Oilguard bypass filter. My last Blackstone report said 0.1% insolubles. Whether or not 0.1 is much better than 0.3, I really don't know. I'm awaiting a Blackstone report now, hope it is as good as yours.

 

Good info... this is what I am looking for. If all other operating parameters are good... then yes.1 is less than .3... does it make a difference, but it does start to give me data to look into. Hopefully more will post their results with by-pass and/or share Blackstone reports. The key is 5,000 mile oil change intervals I believe.

 

Jeff, have you seen this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=481787

More evidence that extended OCI and 6.0L PSDs don't mix well!!!

 

Just read it and posted to it.

Yes, I agree... people buy a $40,000 truck and fall for some MLM oil and/or by-pass oil filter system... and then wonder why they have "issues".

What scares me with by-pass oil systems is that with all the plumbing and filters, that Ford or a service tech will void or be scared of my motor with all this stuff on it. I could just see a claim of "oil pressure, leaks or it s a mod".

I have a coolant filter, but I have pictures showing what it removes and that there is no factory coolant filter for the PSD, but Int'l does for its motor... but again, I do run a risk having even this mod on my motor.

Question is... with my insoluables at .3 with a stock oil filter, why does anyone need anything more if the rest of the oil analysis checks out? Question would be is what intake people are running as well. Stock really cleans the in-bound air, and certain aftermarket intakes may allow higher levels of silaca or other insoluables in????

 

Beachbumcook
Thanks for the oil analysis on your synthethic oil. I have delayed switching to a synthetic for two reasons.
1. Don't know which synthetic to use (Shell vs. Mobil)
2. I read a report once that someone did an oil analysis after switching to a synthetic (Shell) and their fuel percentage sky rocketed...

 

Beachbum, I am going to 'jump in here' too at my own peril. I have no idea why one would run a coolant filter, perhaps you can enlighten me, but bypass filters, I know something about. I have run one or another for quite awhile. They are not an MLM concoted device. My solids come back at .1, however, that doesn't tell the whole story. You also have to remove soot. What are your soot readings? Mine always come back at .01, don't forget that soot is the leading cause of oil contamintion in a diesel. No full flow filter can filter much below 20 mics, it can't. It has to keep the oil flowing. Yet the proof is there that most engine wear is caused by particles in the range of 5-15 microns. This is from Cat, Detroit, and many other OEM's. Yes, your engine can achieve 200K or more with dino oil and regular maint., and who knows, perhaps you will sell it before that anyway. The US average is to sell every 7 yrs. Bypass is overkill for a street diesel as your coolant filter is too, I guess. I intend to keep this $46K truck for a loooooong time, therefore I choose to take better care of it and ensure it makes it to 500K. Got to have something to shoot for, right? You choose to use syn but change it often, more then needed. That is your way to taking care of your baby. Everyone is different and no one is wrong. I ran a bypass on my previous truck which was a 5.4L. I had the same great results.

I use the FS2500. My research brought me to it, and I believe it to be one of the best. I was prepared to buy the Oil Guard unit until I found the fs2500. BTW, I found Oil Guard and Filtration Solutions before finding FTE. For my money, I choose the FS2500. Oil Guard is the best when considering cost. The filters are $11 or so. That is tough to pass up. The string wound filter is a very effective design and does absorb some water, by the way. But when it comes to soot, the FS2500 is better. Watch their video on the web. It speaks for itself. The gentleman that I talked to at the company owns a PS and runs dino Shell Rotella T. He averages about 28K a year on his truck on ONE oil change. He used OA to verify the status of the oil, naturally.

This idea that oil causes the engine to operate erradically is real, but overblown. In his case, it is possible that he has a 7.3, I honestly don't remember anymore. I am like you in that I prefer to call and talk to a person. I am not afraid to ask to talk to one of the engineers, if I feel the technical dept is not answering my questions.

I think that you are too afraid of the big guy voiding your warranty. That is exactly what Ford wants you to think. They want you to buy their stuff and change parts frequently. Some business models die hard and in this area, the big three haven't changed one bit in the last three decades of getting it handed to them by the overseas competion.

I believe that you made a statement about "big trucks" being different. This is true only to an extent. All engines have the same basic lubrication properties concerning the oil. Any engine can benefit from bypass, its up to the individual.

FS2500.com for those interested in checking it out. I am sold on it and love its performance so far. My oil is cleaner looking longer that without it. That is just plain old easy to figure out that the oil has got to be in better shape.

I am interested in hearing what others have to say.
Matt

 

Both are quality oils. I chose Rotella as its diesel oil is CI4+ rated. To get this rating from Mobil, you have to be Delvac 1 and it is hard to come by and pricey.. check with a local Mobil distributor... but I like easy access of Rotella-Syn at my local Walmart.

 

In therory, I like by-pass oil filters... it's just in reality I have questions. I am not aware if my Blackstone has a "soot value" as it shows "wear metals" and insoluables.. but do not remember a "soot value" from Blackstone. I am on the road and will check when back home on Thursday. What oil test company do you use? I do not believe that there is big difference between .1 and .3 for a insoluable reading... but your .1 is a better reading. Obviously, the stock Racor oil filter is doing a great job on its own, but I just was curious why more people are not posting their before and after by-pass oil filter test results?

I use a coolant filter to remove sediment and sand from when the motor was casted. I have pictures I took upon cutting open the filter after just 5,000 miles. I believe that my pictures are worth a 1,000 words. Second, Int'l makes a coolant filter an option for their motor, but not a by-pass oil system... wonder why? We filter our oil, fuel and air... so why not the coolant? That is why I added it.

I went with the dieselsite.com coolant filter and if you click on the 6.0L set-up there are pictures and a write-up (I submitted pictures that they added to their site)... I was that impressed with documented pictures of my personal experience.

 

Matt, I'm real proud of you, you didn't mention Amsoil one time, congratulations!!!

 

I installed a coolant bypass filter at 9K, replaced it at 12K per instructions, and cut it open as did Jeff. I found about a tablespoon of casting sand and the filter was nearly plugged with a grayish substance with a consistency which I can only describe as similar to thinned out toothpaste. I replaced the filter again at 15K and found about 1/2 a teaspoon of sand and a slight coating of the 'toothpaste'. I'll run this filter until 20K and check the results at that point. Based on this observation it's filtering out excess casting material. It's worth it to me.

Russ