Question #1: Pulled my turbo off this weekend, thinking I'd fix a small (but growing) oil leak by replacing the pedestal o-rings. After getting a good look at it, I'm pretty sure the leak is in the EBPV actuator rather than the pedestal. I'll replace the o-rings for sure, but while I have the turbo off, I want to gut the EBPV and hopefully eliminate my oil leak. I remember seeing someone passing around some instructions for gutting the EBPV and plugging the actuator - I think it was itfox. I'd appreciate it if he or someone could send them to me or let me know who to contact.

Question #2: I found that one of the four 12-point bolts that holds the exhaust-side turbo housing is broken off. I found the head and about 3/16 inch of the shaft lodged between the EBPV control fitting and the pedestal. I looks like it's been broken for a while - no bright metal at the break. Not sure how big a pain it will be to get what's left of the old one out, but hopefully not too bad with the turbo off. The broken bolt is making me question the integrity of the turbo. I have no historical information on the turbo, but the truck had 205K miles on it when I bought it, and has about 218K now. The turbo shaft has no detectable lateral play, and maybe 1/16 inch of longitudinal play. I replaced the stock (and dusted) compressor wheel about a year ago with a Swisher, but discovererd after I pulled the turbo that the Swisher has a bent vane - no idea how this happened, unless the Swisher can't handle the boost levels that I see with the Stage 1's and chip (over 30 psi). I'm 99% sure that it didn't happen when I installed it. I have a new compressor wheel on order from Black Cloud Diesel - their name for it is "Superior Wheel". Looks to be the same as the Swisher and Wicked wheels.

Bottom line question - would any of you guys have misgivings about running this turbo on your truck? Or should I be looking for a replacement?

Your advice is valued and appreciated!

 

Dale Isley has great set of instuctions for gutting EBPV, shoot him an E-mail and he will e-mail them to you, or give him a call.

TymarPerformance.com

 

I gutted mine not to long ago. Pretty easy once I got the help. Check out this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...67&page=1&pp=6
I hope this works, its the first time I tried to paste a thread. Good luck.

 

For question 1 - a link (one with photos) try this:
9497faq/tipstricks/gutebpv.php3

 

Thanks for the responses, guys. The EBPV part doesn't look too bad. I'm gonna move out on that, replace the compressor wheel when the new one gets here, replace the 4 12-point bolts on the exhaust side, and put the turbo back on the truck. Hopefully it won't eat itself and my engine, too. But that ball-bearing Garrett sure is tempting....

 

Mmmmmmmm H2E . I couldnt afford to fix what it helped to break! Spend some time with the down pipe and make sure there is enough clearance. Mine will grind when I lug the engine

 

OK - started work on the EBPV gut. Got the butterfly valve and shaft out, the bushing out, and cleaned up the hole so it's ready for the freeze plug.

Started on the pedestal and don't see a reason to remove the actuator solenoid shaft. Is there any reason why I shouldn't leave it where it is? It makes a pretty good plug for that hole right where it is....

 

I have had mine just dangling for over a year now. No trouble. But others have trouble right away. I think some have gutted the shaft and put a 1/4" npt plug in their. I'm not sure how well this works though?
Also i sent a PM with a link but its a little too late.....sorry been out of town all week.....

 

Itfox - thanks, and welcome back from wherever you've been. My control wire has been dangling for a long time, too, with no problems. I decided to gut the EBPV actuator because it started leaking oil at a rate that I can't live with. I saw 444dieselrod's pictures of his mod, and he removed the shaft (or core) for the actuator solenoid and plugged the hole with pipe plug. I'm wondering whether there is a problem with leaving the solenoid core where it is and let it be the plug. I just don't want to do something stupid and end up pulling the turbo again - it's not much fun. I have a suspicion that putting it back on will be even less fun than taking it off.

 

I've had the great privlage of beeing in Dallas Tx for the last week. LOL That place is nuts compared to my home with a popl. of about 50. Hope to never have to go their again...... Sorry I misunderstood you question. .. and now I do understand... I have no ideas to help.. I do know of a guy who sells pedistols that he has taken and cut the actuator barrel off and welded up the holes. Sounds like the way to go if ya got the money...IMHO. If ya want more info shoot me a PM

 

Try Baz's site

http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html

just keep scrolling you will find it

 

Thanks again for all the help on the EBPV gut.


On the other question I had, it doesn't look like the turbo is in bad shape - no sign of the wheels scraping the housings, no oil leaks, shaft play is minimal. Not sure how the compressor wheel vane got bent. Almost zero probability that it ingested something. The bent vane does not look like it hit something (no scrapes or missing material) - and none of the other vanes are damaged. Maybe just got a defective one when I bought it. I'll replace it and run it.

Thanks again!

 

Any opinions on how effective the EBPV is in assisting engine warmup in cold weather? I'd like to do this mod, but I have a short commute to work and believe it to be beneficial to get the engine as warm as possible in the shortest time possible.
I am considering finding a junkyard EBPV, gutting it and swapping them in and out every fall and spring. It looks like about a 15 minute job to change them out. But if the effects of the EBPV are negligible, maybe I'll just gut my original and leave it out.

 

From my own experience and from what I've read, the EBPV doesn't make much difference in how fast the engine warms. I've had mine unplugged for a year, and the only difference I can see is that I don't have the power limiting restriction in the exhaust when it's cold (which is a good thing). If you don't want to gut yours, just unplug it and leave it all in place. Switching out the turbo pedestal twice a year doesn't sound like a good idea - the turbo is a pain to get off/on. Or, you could just switch out the EBPV collar with a gutted one and leave the actuator in place - that'd be a lot easier. My problem is that my actuator is leaking oil and either needs to be gutted permanently or replaced.

 

ckal704 - sorry about that! After re-reading your post, I realized what I recommended is that same as what you said you were considering - duh! I still say it wouldn't be worth the trouble of changing out the EBPV twice a year, though....