I was in crappy tire in saskatoon and noticed they are clearing out there sony explod line of amps and subs. Sony is updating the looks of the equipment. They have knocked of 50 bucks on the subs and 50 on the amps. I figured I would save the taxes so went to crappy in Lloyd and they were sold out, went back to saskatoon and the same thing. I did some checking around online and Best buy was selling the subs for the same price so i ordered 2 12". I went to a wedding down south and figured I may as well stop in Moose jaw and see If they had anything there, the old display was gone and all the new stuff was on the walls. I asked the clerk at the automtive desk If they had anything, and he pointed to the shelf behind him and it was all the display items, all on sale even cheaper.

I got my amp.

The subs showed up yesterday, so It looks like i'll be building a huge box this weekend. Im going to try and make one of the ones that look like there plastic molded. I watched them build them on rides. They wrap the box with fleece and put fiberglass resin on it to make it rigid, then skim coat of filler and paint.

Cant wait to get started.

 

Sounds awesome man, what price did you get a set of subs for? What size amp did you get?

 

Sounds like the Rat Rod is on hold for a while longer and so is the 56!

 

I hope they work out for you. The Sony Explode car speaker line didn't have very good speakers and amps. The sound and quality wasn't there. There is a reason why they are cheaper than other speakers. My brother had some 6 1/2 speakers and they sounded terrible. Too bad Sony didn't make them with the same quality as their home theatre stuff.

 

99 each for the subs

1300 watt amp, bridged. The subs are 380rms. I have heard mixed reviews about them as well, and I did a ton of reading. What I feel is most people dont read the instalation manual's. The speakers are 4 ohm each. When you take the 4 ohm amp I have and bridge it, you now have more watt's but it is now only 2 ohms. This causes the amp to run hotter and totaly screws with the subs, and almost everyone who complained was running bridged. Sony does make 2 - 8ohm speakers, so they work well bridged, but this model is only 4ohm.

The hookup is simple, It has high level input so I can tap into the rear speakers for my sound, then I hook up one sub to the left output and another to the right on the amp. Only setback is I need to get a 4 guage wire from my battery to the trunk, not looking forward to pulling out the seats.

 

Shouldnt the amp run cooler if the subs are only 2 ohms? The less resistance the less heat? And I have heard decent things about sonys stuff, it is by no means high end stuff, but good mid end for a very cheap price.

 

I hear Mr. Sub has an awsomeline of subs for sale and they are tasty too lollol

 

Kind of a different sub, but tastey, hell yeah!

 

I like to listen to the "clacking of lifters" and rumble of exhaust !!

 

I got lazy and purchased a box for my subs, they fit great and the amp has room to sit on top. I got a capacitor and stuck it on the side as well. It sounds great, biggest hangup was finding an ignition source to turn the amp on and off.

 

That`s only for our vintage FORD vehicles, as for quiet gas sipping econo sleds (V6`s) you need to supply your own SOUND ....

 

Thats awesome lockups, how does your whole stereo sound now? Nice equal sound with some boom?

 

say hello to mr. stereo himself... haha jk just so you know im not tryin to bash just tryin to help out!!

anywho, take the cap back. it doesnt really do anything positive, i can go into a big explanation if you guys want.

about the pre-built box, is it one of those manufactured box? or custom built? its not the box is the most important part of your sub setup... you can have a crappy sub in a good box, outperform a quality sub in a ****ty box. the box should be built to spec of the sub and vehicle, again i can go into more info on this, types of boxes, different locations, which way to face it, etc etc.

sony doesnt build anything, its all manufactured, cheapest place, cheapest material... even home theatre, get into marage, paradyme, etc etc... obviously more expensive but the sound and quality are there, and most of which are built in canada, not in korea or w/e.

same for car audio, focal, boston acustic, rockford fosgate, alpine

the ohms, you can make w.e you want, just cause the sub says its 4 ohms doesnt mean you have to run that... you set it up with you're wiring, parralel or series or series/parralel... obviously you want the amp to run 2 ohm, because you will use the full 1300 watt PEAK so roughly 800rms, if its at 4 ohms it would be somewhere around 800 watt max and 600 rms. this depends on the amp tho, i would imagine sony is pretty bad so it might be quit a big change.

do you have a deck? if you do i would highly recomend some high quality rca's instead of using the high input, you're loosing power right there. these are like spark plug wires lol, you want the less ressistant one, you actually loose watts with one that isnt as good. monster cables = win

any questions?

class dismissed

 

Ok the cap, so they not "store" power so to speak, so that a stereo doesnt run your battery right down, and draw a ton from the alternator? Is there a setting on amps now to choose the ohm's you want them to run?

 

it does "store" power... it wont always have power tho.. so what will charge the cap when it is discharged? oh right, your already overtaxed electrical system which already can't charge a battery, so how is it gonna charge other things too? the best way is to upgrade the alternator, if needed. bump up "the big 3"... engine - frame ground, battery - frame ground, battery - fuse box. get a bigger battery, maybe 2, but having more than 1 battery is pointless if you don't have the alternator output to charge two batteries.

i can go even MORE indepth into this, but it should be good enough and more detailed might confuse you some more i unno if anyone here is really into electronics and stuff? so ill just leave it at that.

as far as amps, they usually say in the manual what ohms they will run at, and you just gotta wire it to how you want it, making sure its right, and it will automatically set itself up... i guess it sences it or something... i havent researched this part much.