Sorry this post is long but I have to give history:

I previously posted a couple of months ago regarding how I could determine whether my starter relay or my starter was the reason for a no-start issue. Thought I'd figured it out when I was able to short the positive side of the battery to the starter side of the relay, and she would crank right up. Stopped posting at this point but there is a lot more to this story, and, I'm right back where I started (pardon the pun).
The particulars:
1990 E-350, IDI 7.3, E4OD, 214,000 miles,completely stock.

I replaced the starter relay initially. I was sold a relay which had four terminals (NAPA) instead the three terminal relay I had. The salesman said to use the copper colored term. and the copper colored term. had an "I" molded in the plastic right beside it, so I hooked it up so that the ignition wire was on the "I", copper colored terminal. Still, after turning the key in the column lock, the starter would do nothing.
There are two electrical parts between the key lock and the starter relay: the ignition switch, and the MLPS. I didn't think the MLPS could possibly be bad as I had just replaced it 15 months ago, so I replaced the ignition switch on the steering column, inside the van. Still a no start situation. I then did the resistance value checks on the MLPS and found them all low, so replaced the MLPS (aftermarket Neihoff from Autozone). After doing so, I made sure of continuity of wiring from ignition switch to MLPS and from MLPS to starter relay. Still, the starter was still silent.
Just to rule it out, I put the ignition wire on the other, non-copper colored terminal and the van cranked right up. Whoohoo!
Went on a trip (around 600 miles). I stopped on the way back for about 5 mins. Went to start the van, and nothing. So I shorted the positive batt. term. to the starter side of the relay, and she cranked right up. Since I've been back, this problem had been intermittent but as of this last Friday I am now only able to start the vehicle by shorting the starter to the battery.

I have not done anymore testing, yet. Wanted to know if you can think of anything which would cause the relay to burn up? Or anything which would cause this besides crappy chinese-made parts?

 

Is the solenoid well grounded with the mounting bolts?
We are talking about the relay on the inner fender, correct?

 

Since you have an auto trans there is a jumper for the start power, are you getting 12V at the small wire on the fender starter relay when the key is turned.

 

Hi Dave,
I think the solenoid/starter is well grounded as not only am I able to short the batt to the starter and get a good cranking speed but I got good cranking speed when the components from the key lock to the starter were seemingly working properly around Christmas.
Yes, the starter relay on my van is located above the pass. side headlight.

Hi PLC7.3,
Not sure I know what you're talking about regarding the "start power jumper". The ignition wire coming from the MLPS, ignition switch, column key lock is on the silver colored terminal on the starter relay. I have not done a test to see whether there is 12 volts on this when I turn the key. Matter of fact, that was my initial question when I posted back in November 05. Wanted to know exactly what voltage I should be getting on the ignition terminal. Knew it was probably 12 volts, but didn't want to rule anything out.

I'm thinking the MLPS is probably faulty yet again. Incidentally, I took the 15 month old MLPS (I bought it from NAPA, though it was marked with a FORD logo) apart to see if I could fix it. Found one of the spring metal clips (there are two with four contacts each if I remember right) was irreparably damaged even though there was a large pack of dielectric grease to reduce this happening. Two of the contacts seemed to be shorting against one another. I wonder what Autozone's policy is on replacing their crappy chinese parts?

One other thing I forgot to mention, I had been getting a battery drain as a symptom before I got the no start issue in November. I later attributed it to the contacts in the old MLPS shorting to one another. However, I still get sparking when connecting either the pass. side or the driver's side batt. first when connecting the batteries. Is this normal? I've ruled out accessories (amplifier, inverter, and electric cooler) though not the radio. Would the computer create enough initial power draw to cause sparking?

I will do some testing this weekend and let ya'll know what I find. Thank you for posting, dieselzen

 

I think the small terminals on that relay should be labeled S and the other one is I.
You should be on the S terminal with your wire.

To test it there should be continuity between the mounting bracket and the S terminal.

 

i am drawing a blank on what you mean by mlps, but it sounds like you either have a bad solenoid, or bad neutral safety switch. have someone turn the key to start position, and with a test light, see if you are getting power to the small wire going to the fender mount solenoid. if you get power there but no start, and it starts when you jump the 2 large terminals, it is a good bet the solenoid is bad. if you get no power to the small wire when the key is in start position, then you need to backtrack. the next step is to see if the neutral safety switch is working. if this is good, then you need a wireing diagram and start to go back farther to find the open connection.

 

Hi TJC,

Like I said, I haven't done testing on the current problems ( another nice little pun). Will do so this weekend. The MLPS is basically a neutral safety switch. Its full name is Manual Lever Position Sensor.
It is more than the basic neutral safety switch, however. It gives different resistance values which the E4OD's computer controller uses to determine which position (RND21) the manual lever is in so the computer can make shift, or not shift, parameters.
Or in words more in line with my mood, it's a crappily designed back up switch which you have to have functioning properly for the dang computer to do its job right. Ahhh, that felt better.

Thanks Dave for the heads up on the relay. It will be the first test I do when I get going this weekend.

Thanks to both of you for posting, Dieselzen

 

Dieselzen... can I get a copy of the E40D zip file.
Thanks

larrylarose@aol.com

 

wantodive,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

That post is five years old and I don't remember seeing dieselzen in here recently.

 

wantodive
I sent you a copy of the E4OD zip file by pm
Mark