Pyrometer installation, few more ?'s
#1
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Brew City, USA New Berlin
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Pyrometer installation, few more ?'s
1. About how long should I plan it will take to install it?
2. I got the autometer lunar gauge. The thermocouple is installed in a hole tapped with a 1/8" NPT tap. Looking at the thermocouple... I'm not sure how the sizing of the tap's go, but the threaded part of the thermocouple is way larger then 1/8". What's with the 1/8" measure??? As the hole I have to drill (size R) .339" is larger then 1/8" also? I guess I'm just not following the 1/8" classification of the tap when the hole I'm tapping is larger then 1/8"
3. I belong to an autoclub with hydraulic lifts and every tool known to man. I'll be tapping into the exhaust manifold... Is that easily accessible from under the truck with a creeper or should I take it to the club and put it up on a lift to get access?
4. Do I need that black plastic covering for running the wire back up to the firewall? and lastly... Do you need to attach the wire anywhere or is it pretty much a straight shot back to the firewall from the manifold
2. I got the autometer lunar gauge. The thermocouple is installed in a hole tapped with a 1/8" NPT tap. Looking at the thermocouple... I'm not sure how the sizing of the tap's go, but the threaded part of the thermocouple is way larger then 1/8". What's with the 1/8" measure??? As the hole I have to drill (size R) .339" is larger then 1/8" also? I guess I'm just not following the 1/8" classification of the tap when the hole I'm tapping is larger then 1/8"
3. I belong to an autoclub with hydraulic lifts and every tool known to man. I'll be tapping into the exhaust manifold... Is that easily accessible from under the truck with a creeper or should I take it to the club and put it up on a lift to get access?
4. Do I need that black plastic covering for running the wire back up to the firewall? and lastly... Do you need to attach the wire anywhere or is it pretty much a straight shot back to the firewall from the manifold
#2
To answer your questions:
The thermocouple has an 1/8" NPT fitting. The center of a the fitting is 1/8", not the outside thread.
Depending on your body, yes, you can install the probe with a creeper. I put my front wheels up on ramps to give me more room under my nerf bars. The most important thing is to drill the hole straight in the manifold. Start with an 1/8" bit and then work your way up to the size required for your tap. Dip your drill bit in gun grease and insert a magnet through the hole to snag filings before you install the probe.
As for the wiring, I am not sure about your probe, but mine had a metal sheath the first 2 feet from the probe and then was plastic wrapped the rest of the way to the plug. When you slide under your truck you will have a better idea of how to route the wire. I left a little slack and zip tied it to the wiring harness that comes down the left side of the firewall.
Timewise, I spent 3 hours total with my pyro and boost sensors and the SPA dual gauge pod I have. There are pictures in my gallery.
The thermocouple has an 1/8" NPT fitting. The center of a the fitting is 1/8", not the outside thread.
Depending on your body, yes, you can install the probe with a creeper. I put my front wheels up on ramps to give me more room under my nerf bars. The most important thing is to drill the hole straight in the manifold. Start with an 1/8" bit and then work your way up to the size required for your tap. Dip your drill bit in gun grease and insert a magnet through the hole to snag filings before you install the probe.
As for the wiring, I am not sure about your probe, but mine had a metal sheath the first 2 feet from the probe and then was plastic wrapped the rest of the way to the plug. When you slide under your truck you will have a better idea of how to route the wire. I left a little slack and zip tied it to the wiring harness that comes down the left side of the firewall.
Timewise, I spent 3 hours total with my pyro and boost sensors and the SPA dual gauge pod I have. There are pictures in my gallery.
#4
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Brew City, USA New Berlin
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Do you run your tap all the way thru the hole you drilled or just part way?
and lastly... On the instructions for the Lunar series it says "For maximum electro-luminescent life, do not wire lighting to direct 12 volt source. the lighting power source should be routed thru the oem dash control, on a separate rheostat. This will allow you to control the light intensity"
What is a separate rheostat? I understand the power source coming thru the dash control, but then do I have to add a separate rheostat???
and lastly... On the instructions for the Lunar series it says "For maximum electro-luminescent life, do not wire lighting to direct 12 volt source. the lighting power source should be routed thru the oem dash control, on a separate rheostat. This will allow you to control the light intensity"
What is a separate rheostat? I understand the power source coming thru the dash control, but then do I have to add a separate rheostat???
Last edited by Milwaukee,WI; 12-30-2005 at 04:06 PM.
#5
The proper drill size for a 1/8" pipe tap is an "R"..Grease the tap to catch any chips. I ran the tap in a few threads then tried the fitting. It took 2 or 3 times threading the tap a little farther each time the testing the fitting. You want the threads of the fitting approximately 1/2 the way in. If you tap too far the fitting will never get tight. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Cast iron can break.
I used some anti-sieze when I put mine in the same place the photo shows. The manifold is not real thick at that point but adequate. After completing the taping, bend a small diameter wire with a blob of grease on it and go arround the inside of the hole to make a last check for chips...Others here have started thier engines with the hole open but if a chip is on the wrong side of the hole it will go to the turbo. I also did not come thru the firewall but around the fender and into the cab at the door jam. My choice...Good Luck
I used some anti-sieze when I put mine in the same place the photo shows. The manifold is not real thick at that point but adequate. After completing the taping, bend a small diameter wire with a blob of grease on it and go arround the inside of the hole to make a last check for chips...Others here have started thier engines with the hole open but if a chip is on the wrong side of the hole it will go to the turbo. I also did not come thru the firewall but around the fender and into the cab at the door jam. My choice...Good Luck
#6
I used an 11/32" bit because I didn't have an R this is .005 larger than the R, but for a pipe thread it is tight enough. You should run the end of the tap through the hole. Pipe threads are tapered and get tighter as they go. When you thread the coupler into the hole, it will get snug, Don't over tighten it. Also, check the depth of the probe to be sure it doesn't touch the far side of the manifold.
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