Water Pump Replacement
#1
Water Pump Replacement
Still working through a number of little problems necessary to get my '50 F-3 running (at least enough to get it in and out of the shop).
Next up: leaky water pump. Water leaks out of the fitting or plug on the front of the motor directly below the water pump pulley on driver's side. Doesn't appear to be leaking from the pulley bushings, just a steady stream out of what looks like a plug below the pulley. Looking at the exploded diagrams of the water pump - it looks like leaks is coming from a bolt head (part 20514-S).
I've searched the forums, but can't find much on replacing/rebuilding these pumps and I'm kind of perplexed by how the pump looks to be part of the motor mount. What's involved with removing the water pump and can it be rebuilt, or are there obvious parts to replace or does the whole pump have to go? Also, do you have to lift the motor up to get the pump out? I swear I'm going to buy a shop manual soon...
I appreciate any input you folks can offer.
Next up: leaky water pump. Water leaks out of the fitting or plug on the front of the motor directly below the water pump pulley on driver's side. Doesn't appear to be leaking from the pulley bushings, just a steady stream out of what looks like a plug below the pulley. Looking at the exploded diagrams of the water pump - it looks like leaks is coming from a bolt head (part 20514-S).
I've searched the forums, but can't find much on replacing/rebuilding these pumps and I'm kind of perplexed by how the pump looks to be part of the motor mount. What's involved with removing the water pump and can it be rebuilt, or are there obvious parts to replace or does the whole pump have to go? Also, do you have to lift the motor up to get the pump out? I swear I'm going to buy a shop manual soon...
I appreciate any input you folks can offer.
#2
When the pulley shaft bearing and seal wear out you get leaking coolant down the front of the pump directly under the shaft.
To change: Drain the coolant - should be nearly 5 US gallons. Loosen the two front motor mount nuts (waterpump foot - you're right, they are cast together) Place a piece of 2x4 under the front of the oil pan and use a jack to lift the engine enough to take pressure off the pump. Remove the V belt and then remove the 4 bolts holding the pump to the block. Yes, 4. The fourth requires a deep 9/16" socket and is located inside the water inlet. If you're lucky, it won't be rounded off or corroded.
From here on the process is the same as any other waterpump. Remove, scrape off old gasket material, put new gasket on new pump and bolt in place. A stainless bolt inside the water inlet helps with the corrosion issue and I always use anti-seize past on the threads of all the bolts. Reverse all the above stuff.
New pumps can be had from Sacramento Vintage Ford, Speedway (both online) or even your local NAPA dealer. Most guys that try to rebuild the old pumps end up breaking the pulleys when they try to press them off. But for the brave of heart, rebuild kits are available - just not practical.
To change: Drain the coolant - should be nearly 5 US gallons. Loosen the two front motor mount nuts (waterpump foot - you're right, they are cast together) Place a piece of 2x4 under the front of the oil pan and use a jack to lift the engine enough to take pressure off the pump. Remove the V belt and then remove the 4 bolts holding the pump to the block. Yes, 4. The fourth requires a deep 9/16" socket and is located inside the water inlet. If you're lucky, it won't be rounded off or corroded.
From here on the process is the same as any other waterpump. Remove, scrape off old gasket material, put new gasket on new pump and bolt in place. A stainless bolt inside the water inlet helps with the corrosion issue and I always use anti-seize past on the threads of all the bolts. Reverse all the above stuff.
New pumps can be had from Sacramento Vintage Ford, Speedway (both online) or even your local NAPA dealer. Most guys that try to rebuild the old pumps end up breaking the pulleys when they try to press them off. But for the brave of heart, rebuild kits are available - just not practical.
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