1996 Ranger with 2.3L 2WD and Mazda 5spd, 116k on it.

It has been leaking coolant for too long. It is not a big leak, but a drip drip. It is not leaking from the radiator, or heater/radiator hoses. I just replaced the 4 heater hoses, lower and upper radiator hoses, all clamps/fasteners, and radiator cap, and it is still leaking.

Looking more carefully the second time around, I see it is leaking above where the lower radiator and heater hose connect, I see a bit of coolant on one of the pulleys. I'm guessing the is the water pump, or if I'm lucky freeze-plug. . . Ideas?

Someone told me to do the water pump I'll have to pull the radiator, fan shroud and serpentine belt. I'm just getting into cars, so I'm thinking of taking it to a shop, unless you guys say go for it. But I do want to check the freeze plug before paying for someone to tell me its the plug. Where is the freeze plug? Also if its the water pump, I might as well change the belt at the same time, no?

I also want to do a reverse flush first, correct me if I am wrong, but if there is a blockage in the wrong spot, say near the water pump, couldn't it force coolant out? Then the gasket / whatever is leaking would still need fixed, but at least I fixed the original issue. Thanks in advance - Hadrian

 

I would start with a pressurized check of the system to pin point the exact source of the leak. A pressure tester connects where the radiator cap is and you pump it up to about 15 psi. This will cause coolant to spray out of the leaking spot, so you can fix it without replacing parts that are good. If you don't have access to one, call a radiator repair shop and see if they will test it for you. Takes 5 minutes and some shops will do it for free to see if they can get the radiator repair business.

 

Good point, I totally forgot about this step since my bud has one of these sets, but not an adapter for the small radiator cap for the ranger. Was wondering if they would charge me like .25 / .5 hr labor, but true, the test only does take 5 minutes, once the engine is cooled down. . .will do.

 

specifically check the weep hole just to make sur that the water pump seal hasn't gone bad... Changing them isn't too bad... Only took me 20 min. or so. Of course, the fact that I have no cooling fan or shroud (electrics) probably made it a tad quicker... Not that hard, though. If it turns out it's not the water pump seal, if it's a tiny gasket leak or something, go get some Bars (I think it's Bars) Stop leak. Stuff works magic. And, as a preventative, dump 1/4 cup of coarse ground pepper in the cooling system. It seals small leaks. I run it in both my vehicles and my dirt bike (which springs small leaks all the time) and it works great...

 

it rally sounds like the water pump. on my 2.3 it did the same thing. go to napa nd you can get a rebuilt one for like 25 with a core. be sure to use gasket sealer when you replace it.

 

OK, good troubleshooting y'all. Pep boys did water pump, serpentine belt and thermostat (damn them) and oil change for a total of $290. It has not been leaking since, and the serpentine belt really needed replacing, on first glance it seemed good but looking at the ribbed part it was cracking in a million places, I'm really glad I called back and had them do it at the last minute. 115k on it, and now coolant-leak free (finally) Thanks for all the replies guys - Hadrian