I'm replacing the gas tank in my 1954 f-100 because it is rusted out. I know this because the part store manager blew about 1.5 tons of rust out of the fuel filter. So far:

- I bought a replacement tank, filter and pump,
- Spilled waaaay too much gasoline on my garage floor,
- Almost postumously made it into the darwin awards when I bumped the the electric fence transmitter and caused it to fall into the spilled gasoline,
- moved the truck outside so I could create a divot in my asphault driveway with spilled gas,
- Began removing the old tank,
- Undid both straps, and
- Removed the bolts to the rearward of the two brackets on which the tank rests. It's hanging loose but does not come down because of the strap I think.

I've already hacksawed off one bolt to a strap as it was frozen on. It appears that the bolts to the front bracket are also frozen on.

My questions, si vous plait:

1. Is there a set of instructions handy for doing this?
2. Until then, am I following proper procedure by removing the straps and brackets to get the tank out? If so, any recommendations?
2. How do I get at the fuel line nut, which appears inaccessible and because of the stainless steel line which looks like itl won't allow the tank to move down or away so I can loosen it.
3. What else do I need to do besides learn to stay away from gasoline repairs?
4. What shop manual(s) do you recommend for this truck? I've found the 1954-1955 CD for this truck online - any good?
5. And manuals for the 1978 400 engine now in the truck? I have the Tom Monroe rebuild book now.

I love my truck. Really.

 

Just did the same with my 54....It's a learn -as-you-go type of thing.

I replaced mine with a 15 gal poly...so when I took the access plate off in the floorboard and tried to un-do the fuel line, well it just broke ! The new tank was installed with fuel hose(rubber) pushed onto the new connector
on the tank. If you have to keep your line intact just soak it with penatrating oil and see if this helps.
You will have two wires to the sending unit to loosen (one is a ground)
As far as emptying the tank, I was lucky enough to have a spill valve (like oil pan) already in the bottom.
If possible, use a floor jack to hold the weight of the tank while you unstrap it, if needed you could remove the running board to get a better look at everything.
As far as I know there isnt any other way except to just get in there and "Get Er Done".
Good luck with it.

 

you did good... the only thing I could add is do a video... you could sell it

sorry... I really couldn't add anything... but couldn't help but smile... I have two days like that each week

later
john

 

I have the same job coming up. I have many gallons of 1 year old gas.

Question 1). I think I know the answer to this, but is this gas any good? Could I add an octane booster to make it good again? Where might I dispose of this if need be?

Question 2). I want to go with a poly tank as well, but is this this right way to go?

 

question #1.........burn it in your lawn mowers like I did !

question #2.........Poly tank has worked great for me, but the metal ones were not available when I was looking, now they are available for close to the same price ....so its really your preference.
The only hickup on the poly was that I was advised to plug the second port in the tank (used for a return in fuel injected setups) but this caused a vaccume lock and carb wouldnt run correct, so I just ran a vent line from the second port and all is O.K.

there are alot of under bed options now too.

 

e william -

Access plate in the floorboard? Sounds exciting! Whar that be?

 

On my 54 there are two access plates in the drivers floorboard. One is for the master brake cyl. on the frame-rail and the other is for the gas tank sending unit access...should be just in front of the seat rails, the one your looking for will be closer to the outside edge of the floor.
The previos owner opted to glue the carpet down in my truck so there was a little gettin-to-it that I had to do. I think there were 3 screws holding the plate. It's tight in there so get your favorite cuss words ready!!!

If you can unscrew the electrical wires and loosen the fuel line on the chassis, then disconnect the line further down toward the pump somewhere...if not at the pump, you might be able to sneak the tank down without fighting the connection for fuel line at the sending unit???

let us know how it goes. Ed

 

Thanks, Ed. I knew there had to be an answer for access to the sending unit/fuel line
There is an access plate for the battery on the passenger side.

I'm in luck because the previous owner only put down rubber and held it in place with the kick plates.

I just tried to go out during a T-storm here in NH at 10:30 pm to see this access plate and because I really wanted to be working on something metal during an electrical storm...I guess it will have to wait until this weekend when I get back. I'll keep you posted.

 

Found access plate just in front of the driver's seat. Took some digital pictures of setup. The screw nuts were so painted over and crusty I thought that the nuts were missing. Opened up the plate - this must be the original tank and sending unit - lots of dirt and rust and crust.

Poor design on the fuel line connection to gas tank - there was no way to get to it and it was rusted on solid. Just a little more height fitting and it would have been very accessible.

Hacksawed my way though the line, leaving enough for a flex gas line hose to attach for the future and in case the next guy has to do some repairs.

After cutting my way through, tank came down on the ground because I'd removed the straps and the rear hanging bracket.

More later.

 

Finished the whole project and am writing up instructions with pictures to post to this web site. I'm happy with the way it turned out.

In all, I replaced all of the fuel system from the tank to the carb, including the tank, mechanical pump, gas lines (steel and rubber), and filter after pump. I added a clear filter before pump. I just didn't see any point in going back twice.

Looking back, it was fairly simple but time consuming due to the age of parts and finding replacements.

Now on to the wiring...

 

Do you have to drop both running board supports to remove the tank?

 

Nope. I removed the 'aft' bracket and strap and loosened the front pair.

 

The fun is just strating keep us posted.