Parking Brake Drum Removal Instructions
#4
Casey,
I replaced my rotors all around last month on my '96 X AWD 5.0L . The rotors are cheap enough, you may want to replace them while you are in there. The hardest part was removing the old rotors because of the rust. First back off the parking brake pads to give you clearance. Otherwise they will hang on the lip created from wear and tear. There is a rubber plug on the inner side of the of the brake shield, pop it out and using a screwdriver loosen the pads. If the rotors come off easliy, then you are golden. if not then you'll have to start hammering in between the studs to free the rotors. I found that using one hand to pull outward on the rotor while hammering loosened them quicker. Don't hammer on the braking surface unless you intend to replace them. If you have ever worked on drum brakes, that's what they'll look like. I just used common tools like screwdrivers and pliers to hook and remove the springs. You'll need some brake grease to lube the adjuster screws and possibly new hardware like springs etc. but you won't know for sure until you open it up. When you finally get to re-install the calipers, grease the glide pins with the brake grease as well. The folks who did mine a long time ago did not and the pin was rusted solid in the caliper which led to a frozen piston and a new caliper on the front. Once you get it all together test fit the rotors over the parking brake pads until snug, then back it off until they rotate freely. They will reset themselves to the proper setting by driving in reverse and firmly braking using the main brakes several times.
Funny thing when I finally remove the driver's side rear rotor, there was no pad material there at all, only the metal parts remained.
I replaced my rotors all around last month on my '96 X AWD 5.0L . The rotors are cheap enough, you may want to replace them while you are in there. The hardest part was removing the old rotors because of the rust. First back off the parking brake pads to give you clearance. Otherwise they will hang on the lip created from wear and tear. There is a rubber plug on the inner side of the of the brake shield, pop it out and using a screwdriver loosen the pads. If the rotors come off easliy, then you are golden. if not then you'll have to start hammering in between the studs to free the rotors. I found that using one hand to pull outward on the rotor while hammering loosened them quicker. Don't hammer on the braking surface unless you intend to replace them. If you have ever worked on drum brakes, that's what they'll look like. I just used common tools like screwdrivers and pliers to hook and remove the springs. You'll need some brake grease to lube the adjuster screws and possibly new hardware like springs etc. but you won't know for sure until you open it up. When you finally get to re-install the calipers, grease the glide pins with the brake grease as well. The folks who did mine a long time ago did not and the pin was rusted solid in the caliper which led to a frozen piston and a new caliper on the front. Once you get it all together test fit the rotors over the parking brake pads until snug, then back it off until they rotate freely. They will reset themselves to the proper setting by driving in reverse and firmly braking using the main brakes several times.
Funny thing when I finally remove the driver's side rear rotor, there was no pad material there at all, only the metal parts remained.
Last edited by drcoffee; 06-08-2005 at 10:31 AM.
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