How can you check if the valve seals are good or bad? I guess almost every test requires the motor to be assembled, no?

 

No. Just replace them, they are cheap and easy to replace.

 

I don't consider pulling valve springs easy. Maybe, that's just cause I haven't done it before. But, it looks like I need a valve spring compressor tool etc.

 

Yeah, Just rent one from the local rent-a-center or whatever. Even the auto parts stores are renting tools now. It is easy and worth doing.

 

Do I need a special tool or knowledge to install the seals? I thought just about everything in the head was machine shop work?

Do I need a certain type of seal?

 

Do you have umbrella type seals?

 

I dunno. They came with the Edelbrock heads. Although, the springs have been swapped twice since I purchased the heads, at 2 different shops. I don't know if they changed any seals. I don't think there was any changes.

 

Wake Up............no just kidding ....It sounds like the engine is apart, thats even better. Go ahead and buy the tool, you might need it again and their not that high. With the head on the bench, use a spark plug socket and a hammer. Put the socket over the spring retainer and give it a sharp blow. The keepers will pop out of the retainer and it is all apart. Pull off the old seal and pop on a new one. The new seal will hold the valve in place, put back the spring (there might be a shim under it) then the retainer. Compress the spring just enough to put back the keepers. After you do it once you'll be a pro.....Hope this helps.
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Thanks guys, I might look at it tomorrow. For some reason I though the seals required more work to press in. If the springs aret he hard part, I can probably handle that provided the right tools.

So, are seals for one size valve all the same? Or, should I be looking for something particular to the FE. The valves are 7/16" or 3/8", can't recall.

 

You've got a 446 FE and you've never disassembled a set of cylinder heads???

Oh well, I guess we all started somewhere. Here's how I do it:

Get the big C-clamp looking valve spring compressor. I got mine at Sears. They're not that expensive, just buy one and be done with it.

To use it, there should be some adjustable fingers on one end, and a blunt valve holder that goes on the valve on the other end. The entire thing is adjustable, so adjust it right, it's obvious on how to adjust it. Place the head on the bench, intake side up, with the combustion chambers facing you, so it is flush with the edge of the bench for spring compressor clearance. Open the valve spring compressor all the way. Slide the fingers over the spring retainer, and place the valve holder in the center of the valve, I have better results placing it a hair up from center. Compress it slowly, and the spring retainer should pull away from the valve keeper retainer. It will be stuck to the valve keepers. I use a small piece of wood and a hammer to make the retainer move away from the keepers. You then remove the keepers, and SLOWLY release the spring compressor. Remove the compressor, and remove the spring, retainers, and valve stem seals. You should be able to remove the valve at this time also if you want to. Be sure to keep 'em in order!

 

Sorry to dissapoint you all. I've never torn down a cylinder head before. I bought the heads complete. Then, the local machine shop offered to swap the springs to the Crane matched springs for $50. I coudln't resist that offer. then it was in another shop for dyno-tuning the carb, when they observed valve float and I let them change the springs again. So, I've never had to do it myself.

Now, I don't want to change any springs. But, It was smoking a little so I'm afraid not to change the seals. Although, I suspect the intake gasket was the smoking cause.