I pushed them in with the hubs

 

That way won't set them to the right depth.

Removal

Watch this part to see how to set the seal

You are going to need the tool or make one. I think someone
has some plans on making one to do this.

Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Here is one site (there are others) that explains how to make the seal tool.

http://www.superdutypsd.com/axle_seal_tool.php

 

im about to do my ball joints on my 01 f250 does anyone have a axle seal driver I can borrow. if so I will pay for shipping both ways
thanks in advance
tim

 

If you use National seals part #710825 (that is the correct part number for my '02, at least), you don't need a seal driver. They install by hand.

 

You just need to grind the outside of the flange little smaller. Its easy. See pic below.

 

Just so you know that tool will not work on an 06 and from what I have
found out the hard way it is from 05+ the axel is larger at the stub axel end.
I had the tool from the local odd-ball tool shop that has the Lisle tools and
that one went to 04. They don't have one for the larger axle. Looking at the
Ford tool it is not a flat face. So you almost need that tool to get it in correctly.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thats good info Yahiko. Thanks. In this case was referring to use of that homemade tool only for 1999-2003 Superduty, in my case 2002 7.3l.

 

You won't believe how I got it in place.

Pneumatic 3X rivet gun set on very low with a Rubber-Guard Flush Set
to slowly tap into place.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

I did some searching on the thread and didn't see hardly anyone talk about replacing the u-joints on the axle while they had it apart. Is this something that would just be crazy or not? Seems like a easy thing to do while was all apart.

 

Depends on mileage and wear etc. They last quite a while...Replace with spicer life joints. I cut them out because any pounding and the ears bend. They are big joints and come out hard. I would say if you are closing in on 100k you might want to replace them. esp if you are in a salt area..Oh and welcome to the site...


Dick

 

Thank you for the quick reply. I have 170,000 on the truck. I'll look into replacing them when I get the axle out. I live in Iowa, so plenty of SALT.

 

I just completed this job on a 1999 F250 SD, V10, 4x4, Auto. I think I have read most of this thread from the beginning. One thing I encountered that wasn't touched on to much to my knowledge, or I just missed it. I had one heck of a time removing the factory auto/lock vac hubs. Worst part of the whole job for me. I recently purchased this truck, and don't know its life history. Has 129,000 mi. on it. Not bad for a 16 year old truck. But the rust/corrosion on the suspension parts is another story. Mine is a early model 99 to boot.

Both sides were the same. Were in auto position, but both were actually locked. One outer retaining ring came off pretty easy, the other not. I soaked repeatedly with PB Blaster throughout this process. Started off with rubber mallet. That got me nowhere. Proceeded with ball peen hammer, no luck. Then heavy hammer. Ended up just breaking them and using chisel. I beat, soaked, beat and soaked some more. After about two days I got some movement. Same both sides. I finally got them off. They were rusted/corroded fast to the inside of the wheel bearing hub assy.

The vacuum hoses were long gone from this vehicle it appears. I cleaned them up, best I could, lightly greased them, and decided to go the route of aftermarket manual hubs. So far they work great! I think I will remove them every so often in the future, to check on them and lube them. Replaced all the steering tie rods parts etc, shocks while I was under there too. New tires, and alignment to boot. I used all Moog heavy duty parts, and Mile Marker manual hubs. The truck drives great now! Lots of cussing, time and PB Blaster! and $$$ later.

Gregg,

 

Early 99 also. If you change the hub bearings to 2000 year you can change the rotors to the same year and forget about those weird bearings and rotors..
I had one hub not come out. Drilling cracking pounding slide hammer you know the drill. LOL

Good job...


Dick

 

Dick
I never thought to measure the rotors for dia. or thickness. Its funny, the rotors and brake pads were in very good shape. Looks like the pads were changed not long ago.
I think the build date on the door on mine is like 5/98. So it must be a VERY early one.
Most of the dates I have seen between early & late, is like 3/22/99.

Gregg,