Do the new ball joints get PRESSED in or do they just snug up as you torque them in ?

Funny, I must have been really tired when I wrote that last post as I kept typing 'torch' not 'torque' LOL.... I know better... I have re-editted it.

I guess I am just going to have to take the front end apart and do this myself. Otherwise, I never seem to know exactly what they have done and what they have not done.

Can I hammer out these ball joints ? Or do they need to be pressed out ?

If I hammer them out, as long as I do not mess up the threads, do you think I could re-use them, or I guess at that point I should just replace them If I am taking them out.

First things first. I need to take the tie rods off and check the swing of the knuckle. If that is tight I know my issue. If it is not then what ?

Steering Box ?

I am going to have to find some time this weekend to do this, I will post back what I find.

Thanks.

 

Also check your axle ujoints. If they are bad the steering can bind...I wouldn't mess with removing the ball joints unless you have all the tools and knowledge to do the job properly.
The joints get pressed into the knuckle then tightened onto the axle via 2 nuts. No hammering on anything.

 

U-joints were all replaced in Feb when I had the ball joints done.It has been driving me crazy since then.

Maybe I will just run it into Ford. I do not have a ball joint press.

 

Take them to a local shop to press.

 

You can also rent the tools you need at an AutoZone, Discount Auto Parts, O'Reilly's (whatever is close to you) for free. They just charge the deposit on your card and refund it 100% when you return the tools. If you rent a ball joint press, make sure you also rent the 4WD accessory kit for it. It will have the spacers you most likely need and will save time from going to home depot to make your own. Also, rent a 0-250 lb torque wrench too, the ball joints will have to be torqued in sequence when you reinstall onto the knuckle. Good luck if you do it on your own!

 

Bump for someone that was looking for this post for some help.

Also I found very helpful.

Sean

 

This a 2005, should be the same for 2005 and newer.

We fought with this for a while before figuring this out. This pulls the axle through with the knuckle seal. Use the holes in the knuckle and some all thread, and some flat stock.

.


.

I reused the knuckle seal, it did not look damaged. I never removed it from the axle. Please note, I do not have the vacuum operated hubs.


Also, new updated dust seal is BRS-170. It mounts in the axle housing tube in about a 1/8 flange. It does not look like it will hold but so far, so good.

 

Nice pull rig!

Well as for my issue with my sticking ball joints, I never did take them out and replace them. I tried loosening and re-torquing them. That did not work. I took it to the shop and paid them $240 to completely looses and readjust. It was better but still seemed to wander. Worse with the fifth wheel on the back.

Was going to replace the ball joints myself as I had noted here in a while back.

I loosened the nut on the steer box that I had tightened earlier. That helped.

Then I when on holidays with a big load in the truck, just about max load and drove a couple thousand kms with the fifth wheel on the back, and by the time I got home the steering seemed way better.

It does not appear to stick anymore and wander. My guess is that the extra weight helped to break in or wear in the ball joints to the point that they do not stick. Only took 5 months to break in, LOL. If they are not torqued correctly, I am assuming they might wear quicker, but don't care now, at least I do not have to replace them at this time.

So as far as I am concerned now, the steering is OK and will not be replacing the ball joints for hopefully another 100,000 mms.

Thanks for all your help and comments.

 

Replacing my driver side ball joints. I have tried every trick listed in this thread. The four nuts retaining the hub came off relatively easily, then I came to a screeching halt. I have spent a can of PB blaster on it. Used a 3 arm puller.. broke it. Have a new beefier puller, putting enormous stress on it and hitting the seam with a chisel. Nothing. Went at the studs from the back while the puller is still on and very tight, now they are destroyed. nothing. Sacrificed the rotor to use as a pry / pounding base. beat the ever loving sh*#t out of it. Nothing. Put my 2 ton floor jack between the rotor and caliper mounting point. Nothing. This thing acts like it is welded on! I have run out of tricks. Any ideas? I do have air tools available but not sure what to use next. Air chisel? Dynamite?

This is a great site I look forward to any suggestions.

 

I feel for you. Stuck parts can be a real



What were you attaching the puller to?

Now for the smart @$$ idea. Use C4 universal disassembler.

But really what I would do is get a slide hammer for pulling the
real axels and try to do it that way. You know the type that has the
multiple slots so you are pulling from the center line of the axel.
WESTWARD Rear Axle Puller, Slide Hammer - Brake Tools - 2HLA3|2HLA3 - Grainger Industrial Supply


Put it on using the lugs and nuts to keep it in place. Also double check
to make sure that something did not get missed that could be holding it
on the knuckle. Don't want you to end up like the guy that missed a row
of bolts holding the head on his Chev 350 engine head. He used a pry bar
and left part of the head still bolted down.

Sean

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I had not thought of that. Could be the thing that makes the difference.

I Used a three arm puller with hooks that I put on the hub base. One of the arms broke at the hook (or notch) that goes behind the wheel hub. I was thinking about getting a puller I can attach to the lugs much like the base of the tool you suggested.

Other than the 4 nuts behind the knuckle and the retaining clip on the axle, I don't see anything that can hold it on.

Maybe the PB blaster will work some magic overnight.

 

They do stick in there for sure...When I pulled my original one's off they were welded on.
A good slide hammer should do it..How about turn the wheel all the way and hit one side at a time/the 4 attaching bolts with a big brass drift. Should loosen them..


Dick

 

The reason I asked about where you attached the puller
is I don't see any good place to use as a push point other
than the axel shaft and that really does not give you a
good advantage for pushing on with the center screw of the
puller.
Here is a Youtube I don't like this that much but this is a good look
at what is going on
Here is a look at one of the others I found. I think this might be the better of the two.
It is a lot more time to watch

Post back if you have more questions and Please let us know
when you get this done and how it's working

Sean

 

One thing I am getting tired of is THIS

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Someone PLEASE find an fix this problem.
You loose the post or you end up with a double post.

Sean

 

I like this guy and his video, enjoy.

How To Replace Worn Ball Joints Ford F250 Truck - YouTube